Best M42 body?

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Steve Roberts

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Yashica also had an AE aperture priority camera (AX) that would work with most M42 lenses... except for the Yashinon DX lenses. You had to set aperture, and then advance the film and shoot. It was a bit of a marketing and sales fiasco, but an interesting footnote in the company's history.

I had one but its appetite for batteries nearly bankrupted me!
As for the Pentax ES and ES2, let's not forget the original Electro-Spotmatic that came before those!
Steve
 

John_Nikon_F

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If you don't mind using a Luna-Pro or Sekonic, etc, there's also the S1a/H1a and the SV/H3v bodies. Smaller than the Spotties. The S1a only is marked up to 1/500 on the shutter speed dial, but, there is an unmarked 1/1000 setting. The SV adds a self-timer, and has 1/1000 engraved on the dial. Otherwise, both bodies are nearly identical. Bodies marked with a green R on the rewind crank have the latch attached to the back. They also supposedly don't work with the 50/1.4 Super-Tak, however, I have discovered that some early bodies do work with that lens. The orange R bodies have the latch on the body, instead of the back, and are guaranteed to work with the 50/1.4. They can be used with the shutter speed dial-coupled Asahi Pentax Meter which can be accurate, but said item ruins the lines of the body. It also precludes usage of eyepiece accessories, like diopters, eyecups, etc.

There's also the Pentax SL, which is a non-metered Spotmatic. Essentially an SV in the bigger body.

With respect to Spotmatic bodies, my preference would be:

Spot II, Spot F, regular Spot, SP1000, SP500.

Here's my reasoning:

Spotmatic II has most of what the F has, except for full-aperture metering and the capability of using modern cells without recalibration. It also has an on-off switch.

The Spot F is like a KM or a K1000. The lens cap is your power switch. So, it's also like the 1st Minolta SR-7, where the neveready case was the power switch. It does have the benefit of working with the SMC Takumars for full-aperture metering, plus the ability of metering with any battery without concerns of calibration being off.

The regular Spotmatic is a Spotmatic II without a hot shoe. It's also an older body. So, more likely to be worn than the newer bodies. That said, if a clean and properly working Spotmatic is available, it'll probably be just as good as a Spot II or F.

SP1000 is a regular Spotmatic, minus the self-timer. Essentially a screwmount K1000 with the older stop-down metering and power switch.

SP500 is the SP1000, but topping out at 1/500. Consider it the equivalent of the Minolta SRT-100.

With respect to the ES and ESII bodies... Manual mode is rather limited. 1/1000 down to 1/60 or so, then B. Otherwise, nice bodies. They will work with single pin lenses, but I think you have to flip the Auto-Man switch to Man for the meter to work with them, just like with a Spotmatic F, if you were to use earlier lenses.

-J
 

Ranssu

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I like my Fujica ST-801, have several lenses for it.
 

John_Nikon_F

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There's also the Vivitar 220/sl, 450/sl, etc... Some of those have the Copal Square shutter, like the Nikkormats and the FM/FE series Nikons, as well as the Pentax K2, etc...

-J
 

Soeren

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(there was a url link here which no longer exists)
 

Brett Rogers

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I have several m42 lens,

What body do you suggest?

My zenit is like new... But is dark as dark side of the force!

You've implied you need a brighter viewfinder but your thread title simply asks "Best M42 body?". Perhaps if you clarified what defines "best" for you it might help.

A Fujica ST801 is the best because it has a 1/2000 shutter speed, almost alone in this feature (and certainly for a lot less than the cost of a Bessaflex).

Speaking of the Bessaflex: it's the best because it's newer than most M42 bodies, and hence, theoretically likely to work for longer before needing attention.

A Yashica TL Super is best because it's a fully manual camera and has a true mirror lock up, useful for very long lenses or macrophotography (and certain wide angle lenses if you can find, and then, afford them).

A Yashica TL Electro X is the best because it has a mirror lock up. It also has a fully variable shutter speed control, and it has illuminated meter arrows that can still be seen even stopped down in low light levels. Possibly the perfect M42 body for bellows imaging. But it is also virtually completely battery dependant. For certain people that may make it the worst.

A Zeiss Ikon Icarex 35 is best, because it is one of few M42 bodies to ever feature interchangeable viewfinder options and it also has a quality of finish superior to any other M42 camera I have ever seen (I have not seen a Bessaflex, yet, though, and they are said to be good also).

A Zenit SLR is the best because it's the cheapest (most likely).

Fujica SLRs are best because their viewfinders are generally the brightest M42 types.

An Olympus FTL is the best because it's one of the rarest and most interesting M42 types and it also offers open aperture metering with compatible lenses.

A Praktica MTL5B is best because its diagonal double split rangefinder and snappy, crisp viewfinder is one of the quickest and easiest to lock focus with ever made.

These are only examples of cameras I have myself (mostly: I own all the above M42 camera types, except the Bessaflex or the TL Super). Depending on what I feel like shooting, and where, any of them might be the best for me. Best for you? I have no idea, because you've not told us your requirements...so, pretty much any M42 body that actually works, might be "best". What's most important to you?

My suggestions:

Black body Fujica ST705 with 50mm f/1.4 Fujinon lens (left)

Black body Asahi Pentax Spotmatic with 50mm f/1.4 eight-element Takumar lens (right)



Black M42 by Narsuitus, on Flickr
OK. I get it. You own these two cameras, and they're black and pretty (and they are, very attractive, in black). But how does that make either of them "best"? Would either type be any less better if it was silver/chrome, instead of black? Yes, it's a great pretext to show us a photo of your pretty cameras and (I hope) perhaps your ego has had a little boost. But how has your post tackled the question the thread starter has asked? I put it to you that you've not actually helped in any meaningful way. Is that OK on this site, generally? That's a serious question, because I have trouble working out if this is a site for sharing knowledge and information or just a social website for photographers. Nothing wrong with the latter, of course, but why are so many posts "off topic" in discussions?

APUG has so much to offer. It's a pity the signal to noise ratio can be so ordinary so often.
 

Soeren

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Sorry for asking but are there any reason for hunting specific for M42 mount cameras over newer Nikons, Canons, Pentax etc except for probably lower price or if you have a boatload of lenses?
How old are the majority of these cameras and how do they actually compare to e.g. Nikon FM(2) or FE(2) in terms of finder brightness, reliabilty, ease of use and accesories like flashguns etc.?
 

blockend

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Sorry for asking but are there any reason for hunting specific for M42 mount cameras over newer Nikons, Canons, Pentax etc except for probably lower price or if you have a boatload of lenses?
How old are the majority of these cameras and how do they actually compare to e.g. Nikon FM(2) or FE(2) in terms of finder brightness, reliabilty, ease of use and accesories like flashguns etc.?
Screws lenses used to be cheaper. They were considered outdated, until people realised they were pretty much the same optical formula as bayonet lenses, and the speed of deployment only mattered to photojournalists, all of whom have gone d*g*t*l.

So nowadays there's very little difference is price, quality costs, and it's more about finding the right glass for your favoured body than the way they connect. All film SLRs are getting long in the tooth, and the way a camera has been treated is the only guide to usability.
 

John_Nikon_F

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They've also become popular with adapters on the micro 4/3rds cameras, as have most other manual lenses.

-J
 

narsuitus

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OK. I get it. You own these two cameras, and they're black and pretty (and they are, very attractive, in black). But how does that make either of them "best"? Would either type be any less better if it was silver/chrome, instead of black? Yes, it's a great pretext to show us a photo of your pretty cameras and (I hope) perhaps your ego has had a little boost.

I also own two other cameras that are also pretty and very attractive in chrome. Thank you, Brett, for giving me the opportunity to post another photo to boost my ego.


Chrome M42
by Narsuitus, on Flickr
 

Brett Rogers

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I also own two other cameras that are also pretty and very attractive in chrome. Thank you, Brett, for giving me the opportunity to post another photo to boost my ego.


Chrome M42
by Narsuitus, on Flickr
No, that's actually bullshit. I didn't give you such opportunity any more than the first, you have simply taken it on yourself to go off topic (again). It seems to be a dominant feature of the site. A member asks a genuine question, a few relevant or semi relevant replies are made, before drivel such as your examples above, turns up. The site culture seems quite tolerant of it. Not big on accountability. I've merely called you out on your bullshit post. Probably not popular around here, but I'm afraid I'm all out of fucks, sorry. I visit to share information, or learn, not to participate in these verbal daisy chains a lot of others seem to like to indulge in. Perhaps, if you respond to the following points in my last post (highlighted, below) I might take you seriously...

OK. I get it. You own these two cameras, and they're black and pretty (and they are, very attractive, in black). But how does that make either of them "best"? Would either type be any less better if it was silver/chrome, instead of black? Yes, it's a great pretext to show us a photo of your pretty cameras and (I hope) perhaps your ego has had a little boost. But how has your post tackled the question the thread starter has asked? I put it to you that you've not actually helped in any meaningful way. Is that OK on this site, generally? That's a serious question, because I have trouble working out if this is a site for sharing knowledge and information or just a social website for photographers. Nothing wrong with the latter, of course, but why are so many posts "off topic" in discussions?
 

miha

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For me it was Yashica TL Electro-X as it was my first real camera, bought second-hand. I understand these Yashicas were based on Pentax cameras ?
 

Soeren

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No, that's actually bullshit. I didn't give you such opportunity any more than the first, you have simply taken it on yourself to go off topic (again). It seems to be a dominant feature of the site. A member asks a genuine question, a few relevant or semi relevant replies are made, before drivel such as your examples above, turns up. The site culture seems quite tolerant of it. Not big on accountability. I've merely called you out on your bullshit post. Probably not popular around here, but I'm afraid I'm all out of fucks, sorry. I visit to share information, or learn, not to participate in these verbal daisy chains a lot of others seem to like to indulge in. Perhaps, if you respond to the following points in my last post (highlighted, below) I might take you seriously...
Chill down Brett youre being played :D
What do you expect for ansvers to such a question? "Best" is really a subjective matter and comments is and should be read as subjective personal opinions
 

narsuitus

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Perhaps, if you respond to the following points in my last post (highlighted, below) I might take you seriously...

Brett, I really don't care if you take me seriously. My post was not for you. My post was for the person who asked the questions, "Best M42 body?" and "What body do you suggest?"

My response was a two-camera suggestion that included a photo of the two cameras. My post was more responsive and on-topic to the original questions than your childish ranting.
 

Les Sarile

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If you want to have aperture priority capability for use with your M42 lenses, maybe the Chinon CE II Memotron is the best.

orig.jpg


The Chinon lenses themselves are also very good.

orig.jpg
 

cuthbert

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I also own two other cameras that are also pretty and very attractive in chrome. Thank you, Brett, for giving me the opportunity to post another photo to boost my ego.


Chrome M42
by Narsuitus, on Flickr

I agree with this assessment, my favourite M42 bodies are:

1) The Fujica ST705W
2) The SPF

I place the ST705W before the Spottie because it has a split screen, brighter viewfinder (similar to the KX) and better ergonomics than the ST801 IMO.

In the Praktica filed, I think the best is the "professional" VLC3 that is the only M42 system camera I know...all these three offer open wide metering like the bayonet mounts of the era.
 
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For me it was Yashica TL Electro-X as it was my first real camera, bought second-hand. I understand these Yashicas were based on Pentax cameras ?
Aside from sharing the same lens mount, not really. And I don't think that Pentax was the first to use the M42 screw mount, it was first used on the Praktica.
 

miha

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Which M42 cameras offer true mirror lock up (not just selftimer prefire)? The aforementioned Yashica does.
 
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Which M42 cameras offer true mirror lock up (not just selftimer prefire)? The aforementioned Yashica does.
As does the Yashica TL Super. Which also takes SR44 or LR44 batteries. The TL Electro X also takes easy to find batteries.
 

Simplicius

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I have a collection of Fujica's and Practica. I have never used or tried a Pentax. The Praktica MTL3 & MTL5 are now both gone. The mirror slap is so loud and they are not anywhere near the feel of a Fujica. Of the Fujica's I weeded out over the years and currently have 3 ST705's and a ST801. I find them to be similar but grab the 705's first ergonomics I think are better.
The metering on these with Fujica lens is generally fine. Centre weighted. I find with age some of them no long stop down meter well with third part lenses and are usually two stops off. They are built to last and pick up one without fear but use and just confirm the meter is behaving on occasion with an independant source. The big plus of ST705 over ST 801 is you can pack it for travels anywhere in world and batteries are certainly available in most larger supermarkets or pharmacies. ST801 might be a little more difficult to get the size easily.

On a side note: I am sorry I read this thread as the Chinon CEII was a camera that I had never heard of, now I need to take some anti GAS tablets and avoid Evil bay ;-)
 

JW PHOTO

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The Yashica's are very good cameras, but it's hard to beat an early or even later Pentax Spotmatic. Wind and trip the shutter while it's on a slower shutter speed and listen to the precision. As for mirror-lock up on a Spotmatic? All you have to do is just flick a pea. Just cock the shutter and then pretend there is a pea resting on top of the shutter release in the little hole where the shutter release cable goes. Now, take your middle finger, (yes the one many of us use to communicate with), and flick that pretend pea off. Your finger will just kiss the shutter release and the mirror will flip up, but the shutter will remain cocked. It takes very little practice and before you know it your mirror lock up issues are solved. I also use this same technique on my beloved Leicaflex SL and it works like a charm. I don't shoot much 35mm anymore, but I could be very happy just owning a Spotmatic with another for backup. Is the Spotmatic the best M42 mount camera? Don't know and really don't care, but I do know it works just fine after all these years
 
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