He could also "see" like few others since or before... and he had impeccable timing.
Robert Frank is another!
That's the problem I have with photography compared to all other art media:
Rules, rules, rules.... sheesh!
Oskar Barnack tested several formats before going for 35mm format for his Leica: he went for it because that small format can give us inmense DOF with good IQ too.
Smaller, and IQ drops heavily, larger and DOF drops heavily.
I may be ill-informed, but I thought Barnack was making 35mm motion picture cameras for Leitz and made his still camera to test motion picture film.Oskar Barnack tested several formats before going for 35mm format for his Leica: he went for it because that small format can give us inmense DOF with good IQ too.
Smaller, and IQ drops heavily, larger and DOF drops heavily.
I may be ill-informed, but I thought Barnack was making 35mm motion picture cameras for Leitz and made his still camera to test motion picture film.
I enjoy using my Fuji GA645 but have yet to print anything from it yet. I like a bit of grain though so I've been mostly using HP5+. Even at ISO 800 in TMAX, scanned with a Noritsu it's surprisingly clean. I shot a roll of Arista Edu 400 on a trip to Walla Walla back in spring that I still need to get developed.
You have a nice 645 camera!
Look for a nice used or better new Paterson (or AP) tank. Rodinal (simplest to use, lasts forever) and a small bottle of rapid fixer. Once you have film processing down maybe try to make a contact print.
I love 645 format!
If we don't like grain we are mired in "approved" imagery from a ancient time.
Avedon did wonderful work with a little Minox, which was what he chose to use when he photographed patients in an "insane asylum". The book that documents that is hard to find...I'd guess that's because he may not have obtained permission from his subjects.
SInce this is not in an analog-only forum, I will state my opinion: the best camera for street photography is a small, digital mirrorless camera. I like the Fuji X100 and XPro2 for street. Both offer manual modes for exposure and focusing. Although the manual focus mode is not very good, I use zone focusing. Autofocus just slows things down and I often shoot from the hip, seldom putting the camera to my eye for more than quick composition, if at all. The Fujinon lenses are superb and the ISO range is impressive for all kinds of light. I convert the RAF files in Camera Raw and use NIK Silver effects pro and can blow up beyond 16x20 easily.
Fuji X-Pro1
As a fellow Canonet QL17 G-III shooter, the advantages of the X-Pro1 are those of any digital camera over a film one. I'm not going to try to persuade anyone. As someone who shoots both film and digital, I have no dog in that fight. It's just what works for me.Aside from on-the-fly ISO switching, I don't see much there (in your manual modes) that my Canonet QL17 G-III doesn't cover. Preset exposure and zone focus (and load fast enough film to stay between f/8 and f/16). XP2 Super is my favorite, in either C-41 or B&W chemistry.
Aside from on-the-fly ISO switching, I don't see much there (in your manual modes) that my Canonet QL17 G-III doesn't cover. Preset exposure and zone focus (and load fast enough film to stay between f/8 and f/16). XP2 Super is my favorite, in either C-41 or B&W chemistry.
I've always thought that your pictures had to be tack sharp and able to be blown up to 16X20 without much quality loss. But without using medium to large format can you achieve acceptable results.
Since I zone focus, I really don't want a wide aperture to begin with. All of my street work is candid, spontaneous and with a wide angle lens. No time for selective focus.I wonder if you've personally shot a modern digital camera. There's little reason to play with "modes" in most kinds of photography...
IMO the main advantage Vs digital is with large aperture to control background sharpness etc. That's not easy with DSLRs, but horses for courses.
I wonder if you've personally shot a modern digital camera.
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