Best development technique for 14x17

[keithwms]

Again I suggest monobath. If you can do a good job agitating constantly for about 2 mins the results should be good. Scott, I have the chems and the Haist book, we should try it some time this winter! For ULF contact prints I think it'll be perfect.

 

[TheFlyingCamera]

Keith-

after the holidays are over we have to have a get-together. Let's round up the gang and do some kind of shoot. I'm going to look at a studio space for rent today after work - it even has a sink, so I might be able to resurrect the classroom!

 

[ReallyBigCameras]

Has anyone tried developing 14x17 (or other ULF film) in hangers using gaseous burst agitation? I haven't tried it, but, in theory, it would seem to address most of the problems discussed here (streaking/bromide, uneven development, scratching, etc.). 14x17 is a very common size for x-ray film. So, hangers (both stainless steel and plastic) and tanks should be attainable.

Kerry

 

[Michael Kadillak]

Has anyone tried developing 14x17 (or other ULF film) in hangers using gaseous burst agitation? I haven't tried it, but, in theory, it would seem to address most of the problems discussed here (streaking/bromide, uneven development, scratching, etc.). 14x17 is a very common size for x-ray film. So, hangers (both stainless steel and plastic) and tanks should be attainable.

Kerry

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I have tried gaseous burst agitation with 8x20 in a test tank that Alistair Inglis built when I was assisting him with this process for a number of ULF formats.

I can tell you that it works marvelously well but the logistical issues with ULF do come into play in this instance as they do with lenses, holders, film etc. Not impossible, it just is what it is.

Even skinny tanks to accept such large sheets of film amount to quite large volumes of chemistry. Alistair can in fact produce gaseous burst agitation tanks and hangers for a number of ULF sizes including 14x17, but the prices are commensurate with the time and effort in fabricating these products. You can see these on his web site. You also need N2, a solenoid valve and a timer to control the bursts.

Gaseous burst agitation is optimal when you can acquire used tanks, plenums and the other accessories. For 35mm, 120/220, 4x5, 5x7 and 8x10 the process is truly foolproof. Beyond 8x10 it is surely possible, but it is a road much less traveled.

 

[michaelbsc]

Again I suggest monobath. If you can do a good job agitating constantly for about 2 mins the results should be good. Scott, I have the chems and the Haist book, we should try it some time this winter! For ULF contact prints I think it'll be perfect.

Keith,

Will you start a thread to explain your monobath routine?

I never thought about it much until Polaroid vanished, then I wondered just how the devil they made it work as well as it did.

I know the monobath won't do the transfer like a peel apart, but I suspect that the developer/fixer action is similar.

 

[keithwms]

Scott- yes let's most definitely unite after the holidays and try some stuff out. Incidentally, if I wind up stayng in the DC area, I might have interest in some darkroom space. But I was putting serious thought into trying for space at the torpedo factory. I find it beyond comprehension that they have no darkroom in there and I am sure I can make a very strong case. My thought was to set up a camera obscura and various lines for alt printing. The do have some analogue work in there but only a little. And I don't think it's nearly good enough to have a few analogue prints in a bin next to digital ones, with nothing there to make the case for handmade prints. People come in not knowing anything about the work behind the analogue prints... and they leave not knowing anything about the work behind the analogue prints.

Michael, foremost I would say the first thing is to get hold of the Haist book, which honestly I am only about half way through and it is very informative. Formulas for MM1 etc can be had online. There is but one difficulty that I have encountered so far with monobath, namely that some of the reactants don't dissolve easily. A good mixer is very helpful. Anyway, Scott and I will give it a go before long and report in another thread.

If I ever set up a public space to demo deving and printing, it'll probably be based on monobath.