Best development method for high contrast scenes?

[sanking]

Sandy, thanks so much. With your two bath work, what equivalent of contraction (N-2, N-3) are you finding? Also, what are your times in each bath? Are you letting the film sit un-agitated for the second bath? I'm very interested in the two bath process. Thanks again.

Hi Brian,

With two-bath D23 I develop for three minutes in both Solution A and Solution B at about 72 degrees F. I agitate vigorously for the first 15-20 seconds at the beginning of each solution, then again for about 10 seconds at the 1/4, 1/2 and 3/4 time of total development.

I agitate the same way with divided Pyrocat-HD, diluted 1:10 - 1:20, but with total development time of 6 minutes at 75 degrees F.

Sandy King

 

[brian steinberger]

Sandy, I would think you would want to let the film sit in bath B for very high contrast scenes and let compensation take place. Am I wrong?

 

[sanking]

Sandy, I would think you would want to let the film sit in bath B for very high contrast scenes and let compensation take place. Am I wrong?

Many people recommend just allowing the film to sit with no agitation but I find that this method may give uneven development and bromide streaking. Adjusting to three or four agitation cycles in 4- 5 minutes seems a good compromise.

On the other hand, you can actually develop in both Solution A and Solution B in a drum on motor base with continuous agiation and get the same effective film speed and compensation. If you try this, use a 1/2 strength solution for both Solution A and B and discard after use.

Sandy King

 

[brian steinberger]

Sandy, how to do the highlights compress if you're agitating 3 or 4 times in 5 minutes in bath B? How would that differ from a single bath development for high contrast scenes? I thought the secret was in the stand development in bath B. Is there another secret to two-bath that I'm missing? Thanks again, you've been so helpful.

 

[sanking]

Sandy, how to do the highlights compress if you're agitating 3 or 4 times in 5 minutes in bath B? How would that differ from a single bath development for high contrast scenes? I thought the secret was in the stand development in bath B. Is there another secret to two-bath that I'm missing? Thanks again, you've been so helpful.

Brian,

The key to two-bath development is that the film soaks up reducer in Solution A, with little image formation, and then forms an image in Solution B that is limited by the amount of reducer the film soaked up in Solution B. Regardless of whether you agitate or not the developer will be exhaused sooner in the highlights than in the shadows, so a maximum contrast is reached fairly soon in Solution B but the developer exhausts slower in the mid-tones and shadows, so development continues there.

With a single solution developer every time you agitate you renew the amount of reducer in the film. With two bath development you can agitate as much as you like but you can not put more reducer in the film because there is none in Solution B.


Sandy King

 

[brian steinberger]

Sandy, this answers everything. I'm definitely going to try this. Thanks so much.

 

[dancqu]

Thanks for the info Dan. I'm actually going to purchase some
metol (I already have sodium sulfite) and sodium metaborate
for bath B and try the two bath. Any tips for starting times?

You mention pulling film... either placing your shadows on
zone IV or V or rating your film speed a stop or two slower
would essentially be doing the same thing. I'm not sure
exactly what you're getting at. Elaborate? Thanks.

Starting times? Depends, film - concentration - agitation
temperature and ---- . D-23 is an active developer. In order
to maximize the two bath's effectiveness, minimum time
in A and an extended time in B. I'd think 3 and 5
minutes a reasonable starting point using full
strength D-23.

Pulling. Yes, more than normal exposure with with a view
towards less than normal development. Dan

 

[brian steinberger]

Everyone, here's two scans from a nighttime shoot I did last night. I developed them per Shawn's Rodinal process. Dilution 1:200. One roll of film in tank with one other empty reel. 800ml of developer. Water pre-soak. Agitated first 1.5 min of development, then sit til half way mark, then another 30 sec of agitation. The negatives looked good for a first attempt, although a little thin and with high amounts of fog. Next time I think I'll try reducing exposure a little and agitating two times in 40 minutes instead of once at the halfway point. Film is Neopan 400

 

[Shawn Dougherty]

Scans look great, Brian! I've never used Fuji B&W film so I'm sure some adjustments will be needed. Looks like you're quite close though.

I have not developed any night exposures for probably a year or so. Since that time I have changed my process to minimal agitation:
Rodinal 5:900 for 40 minutes with agitation at the beginning and then every 10 minutes, this works for me on everything from N, N+1, and N-1. FOR NIGHT WORK I would probably not agitate more than 3 times total and keep dilutions at least 1:150 to keep those crazy highlights down.

Looking forward to seeing more and glad that I could help in some way. Steve Sherman was a big help to me when I first started doing this, while he uses Pyrocat HD he was still able to give me some great advice on the process in general.