Best conditioning product for old leather camera straps/cases?

[Bayliss]

I have a large number of cameras cases and straps, mostly from the 1920s to the 1950s. Is there a product I can use to increase their longevity? Thanks!

 

[chuckroast]

I've used saddle soap to good effect on old leather items. If desired, this can be followed with a fine leather wax of some sort, but I don't bother.

 

[craigclu]

Leather Honey is a good, all-purpose rejuvenator. It seems to work on all types of leather. A bit pricey but it lasts forever (I'm old enough to remember 5 cent Snicker bars so everything seems pricey to me). I let a friend borrow it and it transformed his leather car seats in his convertible.

 

[Nicholas Lindan]

I use neatsfoot oil to soften stiff old cracked leather. If the leather is supple I wouldn't bother.

I preserve the leather with Sno Seal, originally made for waterproofing and conditioning ski boots - from the days they were made out of leather. It is a wax product that you get to soak into the leather by warming the article in the oven so the wax liquefies.

The combination of the two is great on hiking boots.

 

[Dan Daniel]

I use neatsfoot oil to soften stiff old cracked leather. If the leather is supple I wouldn't bother.

I preserve the leather with Sno Seal, originally made for waterproofing and conditioning ski boots - from the days they were made out of leather. It is a wax product that you get to soak into the leather by warming the article in the oven so the wax liquefies.

Do these lead to a dry finish? My worry with Neatsfoot and Sno Seal would be oil or gooey wax surface that smears onto clothes and such. I've probably been using them wrong. What kind of rubbing and such do you do to get a finish that isn't messy?

 

[blee1996]

Second vote for Leather Honey: it keeps both my camera straps/bags and my leather jackets in top condition.

 

[GregY]

Do these lead to a dry finish? My worry with Neatsfoot and Sno Seal would be oil or gooey wax surface that smears onto clothes and such. I've probably been using them wrong. What kind of rubbing and such do you do to get a finish that isn't messy?

Dan D that's been my experience. I certainly don't want to get it transferred to my clothing. Sno Seal was the in product 50 yrs ago for climbing boots and was never recommended for fine leather. It fell out of favour when climbing boots went from double stitched norwegian welts to sealed seams. Neatsfoot oil changes the color of leather.
I've still got very usable Leica and Rolleiflex neckstraps. Saddle soap works well, and Lexol makes some good less-greasy conditioners.
I also think that the product you use depends on whether you're keeping something conditioned and preventing it drying out completely, or trying to rescue something that's dry & stiff.

 

[craigclu]

I grew up in a family related to the shoe and leather business and have every manner of leather products from those days long ago. Neatsfoot is a great product for softening leather (but oily) which may or may not be desired for some applications. The leather honey is applied lightly, left over night and buffed off, leaving very little surface residue. Obenauf's Leather Conditioner goes on kind of slimy but penetrates well and airs off after a day or so and leaves a less oily surface finish than you'd expect when applying it (it's a bee's wax product). I've got a number of old various Feibing's leather dyes and in extreme cases, have used these when color is helpful. They have a startling initial surface "glow" but this waxes away easily with some shoe cream. It penetrates deeply so it isn't a surface/painty sort of finish and can be made to look quite natural. It's also handy to have around for a quick nick touch-up on furniture or guitars, etc.

 

[GregY]

I grew up in a family related to the shoe and leather business and have every manner of leather products from those days long ago. Neatsfoot is a great product for softening leather (but oily) which may or may not be desired for some applications. The leather honey is applied lightly, left over night and buffed off, leaving very little surface residue. Obenauf's Leather Conditioner goes on kind of slimy but penetrates well and airs off after a day or so and leaves a less oily surface finish than you'd expect when applying it (it's a bee's wax product). I've got a number of old various Feibing's leather dyes and in extreme cases, have used these when color is helpful. They have a startling initial surface "glow" but this waxes away easily with some shoe cream. It penetrates deeply so it isn't a surface/painty sort of finish and can be made to look quite natural. It's also handy to have around for a quick nick touch-up on furniture or guitars, etc.

Fieblings has some good conditioners as well as the dyes. https://www.amazon.ca/s?k=fiebings+...589756&tag=googcana-20&ref=pd_sl_8l7uownt5t_e

 

[eli griggs]

I used Neats on a tan leather bag, no lining, when the still flexible leather looked to be developing Crows Feet, and though it took a few applications, I no longer have a concern about it drying up and it cracking.

I do have some reservations about using it on still flexible leather shoulder straps, like on this camera bag, or old, C&R rifle straps, such as a thin Finn SA Mosin Nagant strap as, in my experience, it seems to allow it actually stretch in length, and make me concerned that, one day, it'll separate while carrying it with actually a camera, lenses and meters.

And, of course, it'll still beautifully condition baseball gloves.

 

[Nicholas Lindan]

Do these lead to a dry finish? My worry with Neatsfoot and Sno Seal would be oil or gooey wax surface that smears onto clothes and such. I've probably been using them wrong. What kind of rubbing and such do you do to get a finish that isn't messy?

Don't use too much and allow plenty of time in a warm oven to let everything soak in.

You need a leather with a natural finish. If it is heavily burnished and the pores are all closed then this probably isn't a good choice.

 

[Kodachromeguy]

My worry with Neatsfoot and Sno Seal would be oil or gooey wax surface that smears onto clothes and such

My experience with SnoSeal, especially on dry leather that looks like the examples in the photograph, is that it will soak deeply into the leather. You need minor heat to get it to penetrate. After it cools, brush with a shoe brush. The leather will not be slimy or slippery.

 

[Bayliss]

I've used saddle soap to good effect on old leather items. If desired, this can be followed with a fine leather wax of some sort, but I don't bother.

Saddle soap looks good - is it just for cleaning though? Or does it condition the leather too?

 

[Bayliss]

Leather Honey is a good, all-purpose rejuvenator. It seems to work on all types of leather. A bit pricey but it lasts forever (I'm old enough to remember 5 cent Snicker bars so everything seems pricey to me). I let a friend borrow it and it transformed his leather car seats in his convertible.

View attachment 369197

Ah this looks good, thanks

 

[Bayliss]

I use neatsfoot oil to soften stiff old cracked leather. If the leather is supple I wouldn't bother.

I preserve the leather with Sno Seal, originally made for waterproofing and conditioning ski boots - from the days they were made out of leather. It is a wax product that you get to soak into the leather by warming the article in the oven so the wax liquefies.

The combination of the two is great on hiking boots.

I have read that neatsfoot oil actually makes leather more brittle over time - have you ever found this?

 

[chuckroast]

Saddle soap looks good - is it just for cleaning though? Or does it condition the leather too?

I've found that it cleans and does condition without leaving a residue. For some things - like leather covered camera bodies or lens cases - I will follow it up with a light wax coating for longer term protection, though I'm not sure that is actually needed.

I did ask an AI what it thought and it agreed that this was a good choice ...

https://www.perplexity.ai/search/what-is-saddle-QhtdAZcoTJ.AVZH2W_rvfg

 

[Nicholas Lindan]

I have read that neatsfoot oil actually makes leather more brittle over time - have you ever found this?

No. I have been treating leather with Neatsfoot & Sno Seal for 55 years and have never seen this.

As someone mentioned, Sno Seal was "the in thing" 50 years ago; that doesn't mean it has stopped working in the intervening years. Some of us still wear re-soleable boots with welts. Ah, the days of Vasque Mt. Whitney's. And boots that were made in the USA. Now it is down to Danner or nothing, not to disparage Danner in any way.

Of course, I imagine it depends on the leather, the brand of oil, how the items were treated and how they were stored. Man has infinite capacity to screw things up.

This subject, being subjective, has a tendency to spawn quite a bit of dissension. This is the way I do it. It isn't a criticism of any other method.

Advice worth price charged.

 

[snusmumriken]

And boots that were made in the USA. Now it is down to Danner or nothing

Don't despair. What about the Russel Moccasin Co? Also scores of small outfits advertising on Etsy.

 

[Chuck1]

Obenauf's is great

 

[GregY]

No. I have been treating leather with Neatsfoot & Sno Seal for 55 years and have never seen this.

As someone mentioned, Sno Seal was "the in thing" 50 years ago; that doesn't mean it has stopped working in the intervening years. Some of us still wear re-soleable boots with welts. Ah, the days of Vasque Mt. Whitney's. And boots that were made in the USA. Now it is down to Danner or nothing, not to disparage Danner in any way.

Of course, I imagine it depends on the leather, the brand of oil, how the items were treated and how they were stored. Man has infinite capacity to screw things up.

This subject, being subjective, has a tendency to spawn quite a bit of dissension. This is the way I do it. It isn't a criticism of any other method.

Advice worth price charged.

Top quality boots were also made in France (Galibier, Val D'or), and continue to be made in Italy (Scarpa since 1938, & La Sportiva since 1928)

 

[eli griggs]

Saddle soap looks good - is it just for cleaning though? Or does it condition the leather too?

It's a soap for cleaning.

 

[snusmumriken]

It's a soap for cleaning.

Yeees … but it’s also waxy and makes the leather feel nice and supple, provided it still has a surface. Perhaps better for regular maintenance, rather than rescue.

 

[chuckroast]

Yeees … but it’s also waxy and makes the leather feel nice and supple, provided it still has a surface. Perhaps better for regular maintenance, rather than rescue.

According to the AI thing I posted above, it typically also has beeswax in it.

I do know that I've rescued some pretty crummy old leather and leatherette finishes with it and they came out clean and polished up nicely.

 

[eli griggs]

According to the AI thing I posted above, it typically also has beeswax in it.

I do know that I've rescued some pretty crummy old leather and leatherette finishes with it and they came out clean and polished up nicely.

Plus, it smells nice.

 

[Bowman Leather]

I have a large number of cameras cases and straps, mostly from the 1920s to the 1950s. Is there a product I can use to increase their longevity? Thanks!

View attachment 369196

Nice collection! I would highly recommend conditioning all leather items a few times per year regardless of how they feel. They will last much longer, look nicer and have better weather repellent properties.

I make a natural leather balm that contains beeswax, sweet almond oil and cocoa butter to protect, condition and restore.

Anyway, the leather in the photos looks pretty dry so I can certainly say its in need of a good feed!