Best batteries for Nikon SLR? Hacks or tips?

[NikonDude]

Many older Nikon SLRs use watch batteries to power the meter and/or mirror+shutter, and typically Nikon specifies something like (e.g., for the FM2):

One 3V CR1/3N lithium battery, or two 1.55V SR44 silver-oxide batteries, or two 1.5V LR44 alkaline batteries

I've been buying CR1/3N-type batteries for a while, or variants thereof, simply because I found it easier to buy 1 battery rather than 2. But I've been wondering if these are really the longest-lasting batteries for my F3 or FM3a or FG, or whether there are better options (cheaper, more efficient, etc.) out there that fellow Nikon shooters have tried successfully?

I could do a ton of experiments myself, but think it is better to put the question out there for the experts...I suspect that people have found various hacks and combos that I'm not aware of...

 

[E. von Hoegh]

There are no other options, really. Mercury cells were the gold standard, due to their flat discharge curve. Silver oxide is a very close second, say an electrum standard. Alkaline cells start off at 1.58v or so and go down from there, so are useful only in regulated or bridge circuits. They're also prone to leakage - as are all chemistries once they are exhausted. Lithium cells are perhaps least prone to leakage, and have a fairly good discharge curve.
A note on usage. One S-76 (for example) is a cell, not a battery. Two or more connected in series or parallel is a battery (battery of cells). "Hack" once was (and in my lexicon is still) a pejorative.

 

[benveniste]

While older Nikon gear did use Mercury Cells, the F3, FM3a, and FG were all designed to use any of the options you mention. Give equal availability and price, I would choose the CR1/3N for two reasons. First, the lithium chemistry used in modern CR1/3N's have a longer shelf life. Second, it's easier to find one battery in a camera bag or drawer than two. Silver Oxide would be my second choice, and alkaline LR44's my third. That said, if I needed a battery in hurry, I wouldn't hesitate to use whatever I could find at the drugstore/chemist.

 

[Svenedin]

SR44 cells can be purchased cheaply online. I use the “Rayovac” brand and they seem as good as any other. Definitely cheaper than on the High Street where they are usually “Energizer” at 5 times the price. I am not sure what you mean by “hack”.

 

[BrianVS]

The CR 1/3N Lithium Battery has a longer shelf life and is less prone to leaking compared with Mercury, Silver, and Alkaline cells- at least in my experience. I prefer them over others.

 

[Les Sarile]

If you are using a compatible Nikon camera, you can also use the Nikon DB-2 -> Dead Link Removed

 

[NikonDude]

Thanks all for the responses, it seems that there are no easy tricks to avoid using the conventional stated batteries. Right now I'm using this kind of batteries for 3 different Nikon SLRs:
-F3HP
-FM3a
-FG-20

The CR1/3N have indeed been running them well enough, with no leaks. The FG-20 seems to be using up batteries faster than it should (had one go out after only 4 rolls of 36), but this could be another problem.

Time to stock up on more CR1/3N lithiums...

 

[bdial]

The lithium CR1/3N's are my preference, for the reasons mentioned.

FWIW, on the F3, the motor drive will power the camera, you can leave the battery out of the body if you want.
But, 8 AA's + the motor introduce a substantial weight penalty.

 

[darkroommike]

A more general answer: the lithium batteries are fine in equipment that will accept them, and for cold weather use may actually be better than silver or alkaline "batteries". Silver cells (but the term battery, even if not pedantically correct is in common use and of course 2 silver cells is a silver oxide battery) will, in most devices give the longest life but at a higher per unit cost, if the cost is about the same, use silver over lithium. I suspect that if your manual explicitly recommends an alkaline cell, such cell will work and voltage regulation is accomplished in camera. I use alkaline batteries in most of my cameras. Rayovac button cells may be fine but I stopped using both Rayovac and Duracell AA and AAA "batteries" after I had leakage issues with both brands.

 

[CMoore]

FWIW.....i NOW buy the 1.5V Silver Oxide, because.......i own cameras that take just the one smaller battery.
I was smart enough to carry spares, but stupid enough to only carry the 2x Size 3.0V version.
My Olympus ran out of power and all i had was the "Giant" 3V battery.
Sunny 16 is a major pain when shooting "street photography" in a big city where the light swings a wide margin.
Fortunately, with B&W Ilford HP5.....even a relative beginner like myself can usually guess close enough to get a reasonably printable negative.

 

[kivis]

FWIW.....i NOW buy the 1.5V Silver Oxide, because.......i own cameras that take just the one smaller battery.
I was smart enough to carry spares, but stupid enough to only carry the 2x Size 3.0V version.
My Olympus ran out of power and all i had was the "Giant" 3V battery.
Sunny 16 is a major pain when shooting "street photography" in a big city where the light swings a wide margin.
Fortunately, with B&W Ilford HP5.....even a relative beginner like myself can usually guess close enough to get a reasonably printable negative.

Good reason to keep a light meter in the bag.

 

[John_Nikon_F]

Rayovac = Varta, btw. I've always used the Varta CR 1/3N battery in whatever camera could use it. My F has no meter, so only batteries in it are a set of Energizer E91 lithium AA batteries for the F-36. The F2AS has a CR 1/3N, which is what Sover Wong recommends, since it won't breathe (or as he calls it, sweat) and start causing corrosion problems. The D2xs (yes, off-topic for this section) also uses a coin/button style battery. A CR1616 for backup of the settings when the main rechargeable battery is removed.

-J

 

[mgb74]

Rayovac = Varta, btw. <<<<big snip>>>
-J

Rayovac owns Varta, but that doesn't mean batteries from the 2 brands are made the same or to the same quality level.

Also, from someone who designs and build serious mil-spec "stuff" (not me), with respect to button and coin cells: "There can be a huge difference from one brand to another, and sometimes from lot to lot within brands. Nearly impossible to find retail (though sometimes you can get them from electronics supply houses), the Route JD coin cells seem to be best for life and ability to source current."