Best all round paper developer

[George Collier]

LPD for me. I use it with Ilford MGVI.
I used to use Dektol with Seagull (the old graded) and switched to LPD after getting better low end separation with a test. When I moved to MG, I just kept using it. I think it is great stuff, although, I've always been curious about Ansco 130, just never tried it.

 

[PhotoJim]

Dektol is a good developer with which to start. More than a few million photographers have ended up finishing their careers with it too, it's that good.

Another alternative is Ilford Bromophen. It's a hydroquinone-phenidone formula instead of hydroquinone-metol, and phenidone is known to be more friendly to those who have sensitive skin (some can develop allergies to metol). In Canada I find that Bromophen is quite a bit more expensive than Dektol, but I like it a little better. It goes a little further (you dilute it 1:3 rather than 1:2 like Dektol). One nice thing is that it comes in metric packaging (the 1L Dektol packs are too expensive relative to the awkward US gallon size).

 

[cmacd123]

You don't say where you are, as different products are sold in different places.

There are two ways to go, the powder products and the Liquid concentrates. The postage to ship the liquids is of course greater, but you can sometimes find one of more brands at a local store. Polymax liquid from Kodak, (sold as Liquid dektol in some markets) is great. Ilford Multigrade is very good. The foma liquid version is also good and may be cheaper in europe. ALso in Europe there are a few other brands.

In the US and Canada, the Liquidol sold by Freestyle Has excelent keeping properties.

Dektol is Kodak's Powder, Foma sells a smilar one. Ilford calls theirs Bromophen (sp?) Again in Europe there are a few others .

The third way is to mix from Scratch starting with the D-72 Recipe - but getting raw chmicals is hard to do in some places.

 

[jp498]

I put dektol back in the bottle after use and keep using it. It will get looking like iced tea and have floaties in it. Strain it through a coffee filter and keep using it. It's good for multiple sessions over a couple months for me.

When it stops making the contrasts you want, exchange it for fresh.

If you need a liquid, Foma's liquid developer is fine by my experience. Haven't tried much else recently.

 

[2F/2F]

I am a big fan of Ilford PQ Universal since first trying it a few years ago. I used to use Ilford Multigrade, and Dektol before that. PQ is my favorite. It gives me slightly snappier whites, and it feels ever so slightly warmer than Dektol or MG. And it's easy as pie to use, aside from the fact that it comes in a 5L bottle that must be special ordered from some retailers.

 

[Gerald C Koch]

If you are interested in helping the environment you might be interested in using a developer that does not contain hydroquinone. This chemical is particularly toxic to fish should any get past sewage treatment. There are several ascorbate based print developers on the market. If you are interested in mixing your own I would suggest Ryuji Suzuki two formulas DS-14 and DS-15. An advantage of ascorbate print developers is that they produce greater detail than hydroquinone based ones. This is because ascorbate produces less infectous development than does hydroquinone. The difference is quite striking.

 

[Andrew Kleinfeld]

LPD

I've been very pleased with Ethol LPD. Prints look like Dektol prints, but I think maybe it keeps better, in the can, in stock solution, and in the tray 1:2. But I have not tested scientifically.

 

[Steve Sherman]

Hi, sorry for the absurdly subjective question.

I've just bought a durst enlarger and all the gear, very excited!

Can anyone reccomend a good paper developer for Ilford MGRC paper.

Thanks!

Late to the party as usual.

What Developer??? The SAME one, pick one and don't change no matter who tells you too, until you understand the reasons why you are changing.

In general, standardize as much as you possibly can in your materials and work flow so that the only variable becomes you!

Do as little testing as possibly and make photographs as your tests, purchase a large waste basket and don't be afraid to fill it up.

Cheers!

 

[Rick A]

Ethol LPD mostly 1+1 for a colder tone, occasionally 1+3 or 1+4 for warm tone. Changing the dilution of LPD changes the tone without changing the developing time. I used to use Dektol to control tone, and Selectol Soft to help control contrast when I printed graded papers. I still have a large supply of both stashed away. I'm willing to part with some if anyone wants to try them.

 

[George Collier]

"An advantage of ascorbate print developers is that they produce greater detail than hydroquinone based ones."

Gerald -
greater detail in low end, mid, or highlights? Can you be more descriptive?
Also, what do it mean, "infectous"?

 

[heespharm]

Have you seen the thread about the developing properties of dammitol?? I use that religiously ;-)

 

[brian steinberger]

LPD or 130 if you're feeling a little richer. Both are the only developers I use.

 

[removed account4]

i have been using caffenol c as a print developer as well as the 130 --.
it's a little quirky but fun and environmentally friendly as well -

john

 

[Renato Tonelli]

LPD or 130 if you're feeling a little richer. Both are the only developers I use.

Same here, with Selectol-Soft when I'm using a two-bath developing system.

 

[Gerald C Koch]

A simplistic explanation of the developing process would be that one hydroquinone molecule reduces one silver halide molecule. In reality the process is much more involved. Infectious development can be thought of as a chain reaction whereby more than one halide molecule is reduced. Developing agents differ in how well they they support this reaction. Hydroquinone is one of the best and ascorbate ion is one of the poorest. In addition the oxidation product of hydroquinone is itself a developing agent. This is not true of ascorbate ion. Now the extent of infectious development is effected by several factors such as developing agent, sulfite concentration and pH. It is present to some extent in all developers. The reaction is maximized in high contrast lithographic developers. It is infectious development that makes the development process practical in that it amplifies things. Without it emulsions would be very slow. As with all things photographic there is a price and that is how well fine detail is preserved. Ascorbate ion is better than hydroquinone.

Ascorbate ion produces greater detail in all portions of the negative or print. In my own experience the difference is quite noticeable between hydroquinone and ascorbate ion based develpers.

 

[Gerald C Koch]

i have been using caffenol c as a print developer as well as the 130 --.
it's a little quirky but fun and environmentally friendly as well -

john

I would be careful in saying that a coffee based developer is environmentally friendly. You must also consider the effect of coffee growing on the environment. IIRC, rain forest is destroyed to make way for coffee plantations. In balance I think more harm is done than good. Things are never as simple as we first imagine them.

 

[Paul Howell]

I have grown found of Edwal Ultra Black, with shipping on the pricy side. Last time I was in LA I bought a case from Freestyle. Someone told me that Edwal stopped making most Photo Chem including Utra Black.

 

[Thomas Bertilsson]

All paper developers are 'best'.

Since you develop your negatives to suit your paper and paper developer combination, that is. (If you want the 'best' results).

It's all about exploiting the potential of your materials. So you don't pick your paper developer after you process your negatives. You pick your paper and paper developer first, and then you expose and process your negatives to suit the characteristics of your chosen combination.

With that said, I like the economy of replenished Ethol LPD. Lasts a very long time, and has been my paper developer of choice for years.

- Thomas

 

[Paul Howell]

I was checking on line to see if Ultra Black is still being sold. If by best, best means price I found B&H selling Edwal TST for $229.50, special order, seems to be high capacity but $229.50. Anyone have any experaince with TST?

 

[2F/2F]

I like Edwal TST. I use it rarely, though, for solarizations.

 

[jmcd]

My favorite is LPD, replenished. I like the print quality and the economy. I can print just a couple of contact sheets, or all day long; then return the developer to the bottle, replenishing as required.

 

[Roger Cole]

How do you folks who replenish LPD do this? Do you add a measured amount of fresh solution per print?

 

[Rick A]

I just fill my working solution bottle back to the top at the end of each session.

 

[removed account4]

I would be careful in saying that a coffee based developer is environmentally friendly. You must also consider the effect of coffee growing on the environment. IIRC, rain forest is destroyed to make way for coffee plantations. In balance I think more harm is done than good. Things are never as simple as we first imagine them.

jerry

when i suggest that it is environmentally friendly i mean that the components
are NON TOXIC. it is coffee ( which you can drink )
washing soda ( which is baking soda with more water )
and vitamin c ( which you can take for a cold )

good points about the rain forest &C ... i hadn't thought about that ..
the robusto coffee that i used for my developer is the ugly cousin
of arabica coffee ... it is not liked by connoisseurs .. it is not shade grown &C ...
i wonder if it is grown in the same way that the more expensive "connoisseur-coffee" is grown,
in the plantations you mention...

i am seriously thinking of not buying anymore store bought print or film developer
after i run out of my ansco 130 and just using coffee developer for everythng...
i see no point in having more nasty chemicals in my house ... metol, HQ, glycin, KBr ..
nasty ... coffee, sodium carbonate, vit c .. non-toxic.

if i could grow my own, i would ...

 

[markbarendt]

How do you folks who replenish LPD do this? Do you add a measured amount of fresh solution per print?

I use a JOBO. Each sheet carries off some, I just top up the beaker each pass.

At the end of the session I put the working solution in a bottle.