Best 35mm camera design - or rather - which is your favorite?

[Peltigera]

My favourite cameras are the Voigtlander Vito B series. In fact, the entirely manual Vito B is the best - manual everything: no meter, no rangefinder, almost no viewfinder - or if I am lazy, the Vitomatic II. I might get to feel this way about my Exa cameras in time but at the moment the controls do not fall under my fingers as I need them too.

I cannot be doing with large SLRs for daily use - too big for my pocket and too noticeable in use.

 

[resummerfield]

I have to go with the Spotmatics too, just so nice to use...everything feels just right. The best design is not necessarily the best camera though.

Yes, I've always considered the original screw-mount Pentax Spotmatic design from the mid-60's as the high point of camera design. It fits my hands perfectly, and operates so smoothly. Earlier Pentax SLR models were not as smooth to operate, and the later bayonet models didn't seem as elegant. It wasn't the most rugged design, but it was the most refined.

 

[Steve Smith]

Nikon F, Pentax MX, Kodak Retina Reflex III.


Steve.

 

[Pierre Luzière]

After about seven years on a buying/trying frenzy, and some 25 slr/rangefinder cameras later, I settled on the Canon 7E with the BP-300 battery pack. Everything I need for 35mm.

http://emedia.leeward.hawaii.edu/frary/elan7e.htm

My likes . . .

Inexpensive, making it water and cliff friendly.
Lightweight
Knobs easy to read.
All the functions one could possibly need.
And it's a nice color.

 

[OldBodyOldSoul]

I still haven't found a camera that does things better than my F3. Sure, one of the reasons is that I have gotten so used to it that anything else is "just not like F3", but that counts for something too, right?
There is only one other camera that felt perfect and didn't make me wish I was holding the F3 instead - Leicaflex SL - but its finder was so yellow that it was pretty much unusable. I would love to get my hands on another in good condition, but that would be costly as I have only two lenses for it (Angenieux 45-90/2.8 and Leitz Macro-Elmarit 60/2.8).

There is only one other camera that I would like to try before I stop looking around in interest and that is the Pentax LX.

 

[cliveh]

M2, gIII, or perhaps a Reid & Sigrist.

 

[msbarnes]

Rollei 35.

 

[Pioneer]

I do think that a lot of this has to do with what you are used to using. I prefer the K1000 and the LX, I think because I really started with the K1000 and moved up to the LX later on. Although I feel that they are both terrific cameras, I am not sure it is because of their design, which I am probably not qualified to judge anyway.

I have tried a number of other cameras, and I like them as well, but these two have been very reliable for me so I continue to return to them, especially when I feel I "need" to get some shots, such as birthdays, weddings, etc. Since they continue to bring home the goods I continue to prefer them, kind of a positive feedback loop. I am probably at the point now that, even if one or both were to break down, I would just ignore it and move on, having them repaired without a second thought.

However, I know that not everyone has this experience with the Pentax cameras. Some have similar experiences with Leica, Canon, Nikon, Minolta, etc., so those are the cameras they tend to prefer. Some have tried Pentax and had bad experiences, or at least have not found them to be "just like their" _________ (fill in the blank with another camera.)

 

[Magic2007]

Fm3a all the way AF bodies, EOS 1v.

 

[mesantacruz]

Canon f-1 New... i love this camera... it's sweet.

 

[Allan Swindles]

Best design - Olympus OM system, paticularly single digit models. My favourite - OM4Ti, but there is no real answer to the question, it's a personal thing, otherwise there would be only one manufacturer.

 

[Marvin]

Older Minolta X700
Newer Nikon F5

 

[wiltw]

I love my OM-1 for its very large viewfinder, while the OM-4 excells in its metering but suffers in viewfinder size due to all the information stuck into the viewfinder area (like almost all of today's cameras); and the small size and light weight are a traveller's dream.

I love my Topcon Super D (four bodies purchased in this past year) for its very solid feel and the large viewfinder, and the fact that I can remove the pentaprism and mount a waist level finder yet retain the TTL metering...you absolutely cannot criticize a body which can be fully functional and have accurate shutter speeds while being 50 years old without being given regular, periodic CLA, (and the metering is still accurate on two of them!).

I love my Bronica ETRSi for the independent ambient light metering while maintaining the TTL flash metering independence.

And I love my Horseman LS for its precision movements, such a solid fell even compared to a Sinar!

I don't keep cameras that I do not love!

 

[flatulent1]

There is only one other camera that felt perfect and didn't make me wish I was holding the F3 instead - Leicaflex SL - but its finder was so yellow that it was pretty much unusable. I would love to get my hands on another in good condition, but that would be costly as I have only two lenses for it (Angenieux 45-90/2.8 and Leitz Macro-Elmarit 60/2.8).

Is it possible to bleach the yellow out of the viewfinder by standing it in the sun for a few days? I see that recommended for yellowed lenses all the time.

 

[fotch]

Is it possible to bleach the yellow out of the viewfinder by standing it in the sun for a few days? I see that recommended for yellowed lenses all the time.

I don't think so. It probably is the plastic lens that turned yellow.

 

[OldBodyOldSoul]

What follows is me repeating things I heard or found on the internet.
Some lenses turn yellow because of Thorium, which was used in their construction. It's a radioactive element and the yellow tint is the product of Thorium's decay. Or something of that sort. Apparently, or allegedly, this can be helped by leaving the glass exposed to UV lights (sunlight).
Leicaflex' prism becomes yellow due to "desilvering" and the only help is to have the prism replaced. I don't know if it's the same process that happens to old mirrors. Either way, no sunbathing will help.

edit: It's not (only) plastic lenses. 35/1.4 Nikkor (of NC Auto kind) often has a yellow tint, and its glass is real glass. Of very good radioactive quality.

 

[E. von Hoegh]

What follows is me repeating things I heard or found on the internet.
Some lenses turn yellow because of Thorium, which was used in their construction. It's a radioactive element and the yellow tint is the product of Thorium's decay. Or something of that sort. Apparently, or allegedly, this can be helped by leaving the glass exposed to UV lights (sunlight).
Leicaflex' prism becomes yellow due to "desilvering" and the only help is to have the prism replaced. I don't know if it's the same process that happens to old mirrors. Either way, no sunbathing will help.

edit: It's not (only) plastic lenses. 35/1.4 Nikkor (of NC Auto kind) often has a yellow tint, and its glass is real glass. Of very good radioactive quality.

There are several firms which will resilver prisms, first surface mirrors, etc. I believe Ian G knows of at least one. Since the "silver" is actually aluminium, it's doable at home with a vacuum pump, bell jar, car battery, and a bit of aluminium wire.

 

[fotch]

What follows is me repeating things I heard or found on the internet.
Some lenses turn yellow because of Thorium, which was used in their construction. It's a radioactive element and the yellow tint is the product of Thorium's decay. Or something of that sort. Apparently, or allegedly, this can be helped by leaving the glass exposed to UV lights (sunlight).
Leicaflex' prism becomes yellow due to "desilvering" and the only help is to have the prism replaced. I don't know if it's the same process that happens to old mirrors. Either way, no sunbathing will help.

edit: It's not (only) plastic lenses. 35/1.4 Nikkor (of NC Auto kind) often has a yellow tint, and its glass is real glass. Of very good radioactive quality.

My bad, I was thinking of the viewfinders.

 

[elekm]

Among other cameras:

Zeiss Ikon Contax IIa: I love this camera. To me, it is just the perfect size. I don't use the focusing wheel ever. I think the earlier Black Dial version is quieter than the "Color Dial" model.

Rolleiflex SL 35E: The entire series of these cameras is unique in that each model is markedly different physically and mechanically from the one that it replaced. About the only thing they share is a common lens mount. I like this model best, if you can find one with good electronics. The viewfinder is bright, and for me, the size is ideal. And of course you can mount a series of excellent Carl Zeiss lenses.

Rollei 35: This was my third real camera. I bought a 35T back in 1979 and shot the daylights out of it. I took five minutes to familiarize myself with how it worked, and after that never had a problem.

Nikon F2A: Old-school solidly built camera. The shutter is a bit loud, but who cares. Highly dependable and is very intuitive.

Olympus XA: Nice little camera and best used by someone with little hands.

Carl Zeiss Jena Werra 3: I've had a couple of these, and I like this one best. It has a rounded top deck with well-placed controls. The method of tensioning the shutter and advancing the film is unique and genius.

Konica III: A sturdy camera with trigger advance and an excellent f/2.0 lens. It has a large viewfinder and excellent rangefinder, and it's also a handsome camera.

Carl Zeiss Zeiss Ikon: This is my last entry, because I've overdone it. For me, this camera really works. I like that the body is thin (front to back). I think the controls feels well placed and easy to manipulate. The camera is extremely well balanced. Great viewfinder, although I had to replace the eyepiece cover because the rubber surround had torn (it's identical to the one for the Nikon FE). And of course, the great Carl Zeiss optics, although oddly enough my favorite is the Rollei Sonnar f/2.8 40mm lens.

 

[RidinRev66]

I have two Nikon F3's and I think that they are the smoothest, most beautiful black boxes that I have handled. They just feel right - great ergonomics. Of course the details are very subtle. The F3 is a wonderful example of "form follows function"!

 

[David Lyga]

My favorite design: Asahi H series (predecessor of Spotmatic). - David Lyga

 

[fotch]

I have two Nikon F3's and I think that they are the smoothest, most beautiful black boxes that I have handled. They just feel right - great ergonomics. Of course the details are very subtle. The F3 is a wonderful example of "form follows function"!

Yea, another vote for the F3

 

[lxdude]

There are several firms which will resilver prisms, first surface mirrors, etc. I believe Ian G knows of at least one. Since the "silver" is actually aluminium, it's doable at home with a vacuum pump, bell jar, car battery, and a bit of aluminium wire.

Some have actual silver, which must be overcoated to protect from tarnishing.

 

[AgX]

You can coat glass with silver with much simpler outfit than necessary for vapor deposit of aluminium.

 

[Markster]

Cannon A-series.

Now wait, don't lynch me yet. Hear me out! Much like Ford and his Model T, it's not about marketting or sales. It's that this product worked, worked WELL, and was cheap, and easily mass-produced. The Model T pushed use of the personal automobile to unimaginable limits at the time.

The Cannon A-series probably did more for spreading the joy of photography to the masses than Leicas ever did simply because they made (and sold) over 6 million of the A-series. It had professional-level attachments and quality yet was within the grasp of average people. Regardless of your personal preferences on ergonomics or layout (Olympus, Nikon, etc) I have to say the A-series was one of the most important 35mm cameras of all times.

In retrospect, of course.