Beseler 45 and 35mm negatives.

[fiddle]

Hello all,
I have a question. Im not sure if its me doing something wrong,
I have a Beseler 45 w/ a Dichro 45s head and 4x5 mixing box. I have not printed any 35 since Ive gotten this and my 4x5. The other night I went to print some 35 and noticed that the only way I can get an 8x10 focused is to have the bellows completely compressed. Both the ones above and below the negative stage. Is this normal? My first thought was the mixing box, but figured it should still work, just not get as bright or focused light, maybe Im wrong?

Thank you.

 

[scrufftie]

I have an LPL 4x5 enlarger and I have to reverse my lens mount when I use a 50mm for 35mm printing. Even then, my bellows are really compressed

 

[GregY]

Yes the bellows need to be adjusted for different negative sizes

4 x 5--one inch up
3 /14 x 4 1/4--2 3/16" up
2 1/4 x 3 1/4--3 1/4 " up
2 1/4 x 2 1/4--4 1/4" up
35mm--5 3/4" up.

 

[mshchem]

Yes the bellows need to be adjusted for different negative sizes

4 x 5--one inch up
3 /14 x 4 1/4--2 3/16" up
2 1/4 x 3 1/4--3 1/4 " up
2 1/4 x 2 1/4--4 1/4" up
35mm--5 3/4" up.

This is true when using the condensers.

If you are using the dichro color head. Just leave the 4x5 mixing chamber in place. Upper bellows get mushed down completely.
Lower bellows will need to be compressed nearly completely especially when using a 50mm lens for an 8X enlargement like 8x10..

You can do most anything with these enlargers including reductions. To make reductions you need to raise the easel closer to the lens (think like a pile of encyclopedias)

 

[MattKing]

I'm guessing that your problem is being better addressed by fiddle's approach - dealing with negative to lens distance - then GregY's approach - which is more likely to deal with evenness of illumination.
I had a similar problem with my Omega D6. While I could make prints with a 50mm lens and a very tightly compressed focusing bellows, it was far more convenient to switch to a 60mm enlarging lens, which permitted me to relax the focusing bellows a small but useful amount.

 

[mshchem]

I'm guessing that your problem is being better addressed by fiddle's approach - dealing with negative to lens distance - then GregY's approach - which is more likely to deal with evenness of illumination.
I had a similar problem with my Omega D6. While I could make prints with a 50mm lens and a very tightly compressed focusing bellows, it was far more convenient to switch to a 60mm enlarging lens, which permitted me to relax the focusing bellows a small but useful amount.

I use a 63mm El Nikkor, since the 1980's, for 35mm.

 

[Sharktooth]

I'm guessing that your problem is being better addressed by fiddle's approach - dealing with negative to lens distance - then GregY's approach - which is more likely to deal with evenness of illumination.
I had a similar problem with my Omega D6. While I could make prints with a 50mm lens and a very tightly compressed focusing bellows, it was far more convenient to switch to a 60mm enlarging lens, which permitted me to relax the focusing bellows a small but useful amount.

The longer focal length enlarging lens makes sense. You should be able to find a 75 or 80mm lens that is common for 2 1/4 square negs, pretty easily, and cheap. You could even use the same lens you use for 4x5, but you'd have to raise the head a lot higher to get an 8x10 image on the baseboard.

 

[Alan9940]

I've used an 80mm lens on my Beseler 45MX for 35mm enlarging without issue for 40+ years.

 

[GregY]

I use a Zone VI VC head on my Beseler 45 mxt. I don't use the scale but adjust the bellows ad hoc. I've just measured after printing some 6x9" on 8x10" and the upper bellows is about 1" up. I've used 50,75,80,105, & 150 on that enlarger with never any issues.

 

[fiddle]

Thank you all!!
I do have an 80 lying around, Ill have to throw that on a board and test.

 

[Doremus Scudder]

Just for the record: The recommended adjustment for the upper bellows that Greg Y posted above only apply when changing formats using the condenser head, as mshchem has pointed out. With the dichro head, the upper bellows are always fully compressed. Sorry to be repetitive, but there seems to be some confusion about this.

Best,

Doremus

 

[fiddle]

Understood,
Thank you Doremus.

 

[GregY]

Just for the record: The recommended adjustment for the upper bellows that Greg Y posted above only apply when changing formats using the condenser head, as mshchem has pointed out. With the dichro head, the upper bellows are always fully compressed. Sorry to be repetitive, but there seems to be some confusion about this.

Best,

Doremus

Thank you Doremus. Much appreciated

 

[mshchem]

Just for the record: The recommended adjustment for the upper bellows that Greg Y posted above only apply when changing formats using the condenser head, as mshchem has pointed out. With the dichro head, the upper bellows are always fully compressed. Sorry to be repetitive, but there seems to be some confusion about this.

Best,

Doremus

The same is true with any coldlight. I have a couple different light sources including the marvelous Zone VI VC cold light head. All these require the upper bellows to be fully compressed.

Beseler made a bizarre adapter to use the condensers with a dichro color head, it does add a bit of contrast. Designed to mimic an opal bulb.

 

[albada]

I use a 63mm El Nikkor, since the 1980's, for 35mm.

I also use a 63mm, because when making 4x5-inch prints (8x10 quartered), it keeps the lens a little higher, giving me more room to work.

Mark

 

[guangong]

While I have Beseler negative carriers for 35mm, I simply use a Focomat Ic. This avoids a lot of calculating and worry. However, I found this discussion very interesting.

 

[fiddle]

I do still have by Beseler 23 I used before receiving my 45. Id gladly use 2 for they're own function, but my darkroom is tiiiiiny.