Yes the bellows need to be adjusted for different negative sizes
4 x 5--one inch up
3 /14 x 4 1/4--2 3/16" up
2 1/4 x 3 1/4--3 1/4 " up
2 1/4 x 2 1/4--4 1/4" up
35mm--5 3/4" up.
I'm guessing that your problem is being better addressed by fiddle's approach - dealing with negative to lens distance - then GregY's approach - which is more likely to deal with evenness of illumination.
I had a similar problem with my Omega D6. While I could make prints with a 50mm lens and a very tightly compressed focusing bellows, it was far more convenient to switch to a 60mm enlarging lens, which permitted me to relax the focusing bellows a small but useful amount.
I'm guessing that your problem is being better addressed by fiddle's approach - dealing with negative to lens distance - then GregY's approach - which is more likely to deal with evenness of illumination.
I had a similar problem with my Omega D6. While I could make prints with a 50mm lens and a very tightly compressed focusing bellows, it was far more convenient to switch to a 60mm enlarging lens, which permitted me to relax the focusing bellows a small but useful amount.
Just for the record: The recommended adjustment for the upper bellows that Greg Y posted above only apply when changing formats using the condenser head, as mshchem has pointed out. With the dichro head, the upper bellows are always fully compressed. Sorry to be repetitive, but there seems to be some confusion about this.
Best,
Doremus
Just for the record: The recommended adjustment for the upper bellows that Greg Y posted above only apply when changing formats using the condenser head, as mshchem has pointed out. With the dichro head, the upper bellows are always fully compressed. Sorry to be repetitive, but there seems to be some confusion about this.
Best,
Doremus
I use a 63mm El Nikkor, since the 1980's, for 35mm.
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