(What Leigh likely wanted to say: )A very common problem in power supplies is bad filter capacitors.
This will usually cause the fuse to blow if it's of the proper rating.
Is the fuse the proper size (ampere rang) and type?
It's not unusual to find fuses rated far above the proper value, installed by the previous owner when the right fuse blew.
A very common problem in power supplies is bad filter capacitors.
This will usually cause the fuse to blow if it's of the proper rating.
Is the failure scenario repeatable, or is it now off and won't turn on?
- Leigh
(What Leigh likely wanted to say: )
If the fuse is a overrated the capacitator itself may have blown, the apparatus would not light again, but lamp and fuse look fine.
Of course with an overated fuse other parts might have blown.
Switch on the apparatus, check the powerline for being broken or of bad contact. Switch off, then pull the cable off the mains, check lamp and fuse, and its rating. If both are not blown, check lamp contact (though it is unlikely to go bad abruptly). Switch on again and see for the lamp. If no result, switch off and pull cable again, open the casing further and have a look at the electronics. Sometime one can see blown or smoldered parts. If everything looks fine it is time to consult a specialist...
I showed the schematic to a couple of the electrical engineers at work, and they were very amused. The first comment was, "When was this designed?" The style of electronic design seemed "old fashioned," even by guys who learned their craft in the Seventies and remember how things were done when they were students. The assumption was late Sixties, but they weren't really sure. I Googled the answer, and found that it was designed in 1979, and was introduced in 1980 or 1981. Those opinions were really curious.
That suggests a serious problem.It appears that solder separated with the wire from one of the socket blades.
schematic fot the power supply is here. years ago a lady had a vactrol problem n managed to get it for us.
(there was a url link here which no longer exists)
Given that many of these old beseler power supplies seem to be giving up the ghost -I wonder if we might be able to find a comparable modern power supply and just switch it out completely... Does anyone know the actual voltage output on the Dual DichroS and/or 45S power supply? Bulb for both is EVW, rated at 82V / 250W...
But is that AC or DC? And what is the actual output of the power supply (probably less than 82V...)?
The required AC (rms) and DC voltages are identical for a resistive load like a light bulb.Bulb for both is EVW, rated at 82V / 250W...
But is that AC or DC? And what is the actual output of the power supply (probably less than 82V...)?
There is one common, almost universal, failure mode for power supplies more than 20 years old.Given that many of these old beseler power supplies seem to be giving up the ghost ...
Since the D5500 power supply also drives the closed-loop filter motors, I rebuilt them from scratch. Your power supplies might also be rebuildable. To power the lamp, frequently the supply waveform is broken up by the TRIAC to pulse the lamp with the appropriate voltage 82v in my case, sensed by a 'true RMS' chip.I also have two Beseler model color heads (45S and Dual DichroS) with fried power supplies (in my case due to opto-isolator failure mentioned by Paul above). Given that many of these old beseler power supplies seem to be giving up the ghost -I wonder if we might be able to find a comparable modern power supply and just switch it out completely... Does anyone know the actual voltage output on the Dual DichroS and/or 45S power supply? Bulb for both is EVW, rated at 82V / 250W...
But is that AC or DC? And what is the actual output of the power supply (probably less than 82V...)?
Anyone have a functioning unit and a voltage meter?
If they were photographers, the same comments might be applied to your mechanical film camera if you have one."When was this designed?" The style of electronic design seemed "old fashioned,"
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