Beginner's Guide to B&W Processing

[Christopher Walrath]

Christopher Walrath submitted a new resource:

(there was a url link here which no longer exists) - Beginner's Guide to B&W Processing

I have found that there are many photographers out there asking questions about who does what and how and what should I get. Well, I was asking those questions a year ago and now I am answering them. And I thought this would be a good place to put my processes out for anyone who would like to view them.

I will be going over a process of developing 100TMX Kodak TMax and also 400TMY Kodak TMax as the development times are published identical for the chemistry I will be using. Developer...

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

 

[Christopher Walrath]

I would like to take this opporunity to thank all of you for reading this article. I hope I was able to help some of you.

 

[Ian Grant]

It would be helpful to standardise the system of measurement.

The international standard is Metric, so Litres, not Gallons/Ounces etc would make the most sense. Same goes for thermometers metric Celsius is more appropriate. Using older Imperial/US sizes can only lead to confusion & mistakes particularly when the US short measure gallon is significantly smaller than an Imperial gallon.

Measuring cylinders and jugs should all have dual scales because some developers etc are still sold in US measure, while most are metric.

Also a note that Developing tanks and reels should be bought as sets, they aren't often interchangeable between makes/types.

 

[Christopher Walrath]

Thank you for the note, Ian.

 

[pierods]

Thanks for the effort.

 

[unibonded]

A very useful guide for those setting out into black and white film processing.

I'm interested on your thoughts about pre-soaking, it's not something I do but what do you find the benefits to be – more even developing. Do you think it is more important when using shorter developer times (say, under 6 minutes)? I believe that some films should never be pre-soaked as it removes a required chemical on the surface of the film (it escapes me which film that is). Are there any developers that react badly to pre soaking? And what about rotary processors, still a good idea to pre-soak?

Be good to hear what you think.

 

[rwyoung]

A note on the pretzels: WASH AND DRY YOUR HANDS WELL BEFORE AND AFTER EATING.

Before - chemical contamination, not a good idea to be ingesting this stuff

After - greasy fingerprints

 

[Christopher Walrath]

My thought, other than the 'more even developing and 'resists air bubbles staying on the film' arguments is that it brings the film and the container up to processing temperatures and brings in developing accuracy just a wee little more.

And the bath really brings out the tang in the pretzel mustard.

 

[Christopher Walrath]

Oh, and thanks for the notes. And the reads.

 

[kodachrome64]

Thank you so much for this article. It helped me get on the path of processing negs myself. Everything is great but I want to note one thing: when you mention Photo-Flo, you say to rinse it from the film afterward. I did this the first time and it canceled out the Photo-Flo step, and water beaded up on the film and left spots. I read more posts and realized that Photo-Flo should be added to the final rinse, and it allows the water to sheet off the film. This worked much better. I think rinsing it off will render the Photo-Flo step useless.

Thanks again for the great article!

Nick

 

[Christopher Walrath]

You're right and I must have missed that one 'cause I don't. Sorry about that. Thanks for the comment.

 

[ic-racer]

I read it and it looks like good info for someone starting out.

I would emphasize to beginners that for FILM processing a light-tight darkroom is NOT needed. A changing bag or changing tent will be fine. I actually prefer loading film reels with the tent; I have never dropped anything on the floor that way

 

[fmajor]

Thanks so much Christopher! It's a great article and when i get my processing "stuff", i'll be committing it all to memory!!!

 

[Christopher Walrath]

Glad I could help, fmajor.

 

[GRHazelton]

A good intro! Thanks!

A few comments from some long-ago experience. I recently set up an upstairs bath for darkroom work and it revived some old memories.

Absolute black is good, but not always obtainable, and printing processes are much more forgiving than film. Even with film it seems that a few tiny leaks, not visible from your film loading surface, aren't very dangerous. I closed things up in the darkroom and sat for a timed 10 minute in the dark. The tiny points of light, invisible from the counter, seemed to have no effect on ASA 400 film.

I've had good luck with cutting the film tongue squarely, and leaving the film on the spindle, or even in the cassette housing and then when it's all on the reel, cutting it off the spindle, or tearing the tape. Fewer chances for finger prints. Your mileage may vary.

BTW, if you peel the tape off the film you get a lovely blue-green static discharge. I've never had it fog the film, but YMMV.

A changing bag is a good idea for your field kit. If you somehow rip the film off the spindle or if it breaks mid roll (I had that happen with my MX and a winder) you can at least unload it. In the dim days of antiquity Kodak put up its film in METAL cans, color coded by emulsion. So the film retrieved in a changing bag could be put in an opaque container. Those days are long gone....

Ah, the smell of hypo in the morning....

 

[Christopher Walrath]

Thanks for the input. The more hints and tips, the better.

 

[GRHazelton]

BTW, I love your slogan, "Its never too early to panic." Great!

 

[rivetr]

Good job, Chris--thanks!