Neither have you. Show us, since you have it readily available.
I've done actual tests of resolution charts for the Canon, Olympus, and Minolta -- and compared them to the Minolta 45mm SLR lens -- for anyone to see.
All you have provided is -- let me think.........Nothing.
Ok, there aren't sample images here.
However "resoluton charts" won't tell me the complete story about a lens.
Neither have you. Show us, since you have it readily available.
I still have a few mercury cells, they are surprisingly long lived.
They are in the link to the PDF file that I provided above.
Best fixed lens rangefinder bar none.
Nearest competitor Auto S2 is much less reliable and overall just not as good, with a few perks such as the finder lines and the (sometimes) build in hood.
Even the supposed upgrade, Hi-Matic 9 is not as good.
The only sane battery option is an MR-9 voltage regulating adapter.
Or actually soldering the components into the camera.
It’s also a fine all manual camera. So a really no need to insist on a battery.
It’s quite easy to glean if the shutter is working ok. Is there a difference between the shutter speeds. And do they look like 1/60th or 1/8th?
Folks - turn the heat down.
The thread isn't even about which camera is better.
It is about one camera, and the battery for it.
If you want a comparative advantage thread, start one, and keep it civil!
Are there any service manuals for these?
Would be useful before I tear this thing down.
Reading comments elsewhere, it looks like you need to peel off the vinyl to get to some screws underneath.
I took off the bottom but the battery compartment is still set into the casting.Depends on what you want to reach.
The top and bottom comes off readily. Just be careful not to break the battery wire when taking off the bottom plate.
The lenses in the Hi-Matic 9, Hi-Matic 7, and Hi-Matic 7s are based on the Minolta Chiyoda 5cm F1.8 Super-Rokkor.
I've had my Hi-Matic 9 since 1969. Added the 5cm F1.8 Super-Rokkor so I could have the same lens for my Leica.
The difference between the 45/1.7 and 45/1.8- probably in sample variation due to age. The 45/1.7 is every bit as good.
The Hi-Matic 9 adds follow-flash GN settings. Nice feature in the day of bulb flash and fixed output electronic flash.
A 1.5v Alkaline works fine. Test against a known good camera.
The lens and viewfinder of the Konica S3 and Minolta 7S-II are different. Take them apart and you can see for yourself.
The meter not working: does the Battery Test work? Does the follow-focus with the GN work?
Minolta Himatic 9: Flood Cleaning Shutter and Cleaning Viewfinder, also applies to the 7, 7s, and 11.
I bought this camera in 1969, my first 35mm camera, and a whole Summer of mowing Lawns. I was 11. The viewfinder had enough haze built up to make focusing difficult- last CLA was 1976. Time to clean it, I'm a lot better at fixing cameras than I was in 1976. Tools required: Flat Head...cameraderie.org
My original 1969 HM9 works perfectly.
Then I bought one "non-working" for $25 to get the Box and Lens cap I lost decades ago. Made it work. And another even cheaper. The Galvenometer was broken in that one. So made a best of two.
Interesting post, thanks.
What I have against the 9 is that it adds unessesary depth/length to the lens because of the mostly useless GN system.
I use a lot of bulb and old flashes. But almost always with bounce or naked bulb mode. And for that it is useless.
Even with direct flash it doesn’t take into account the reflector/diffusion/lens used.
I find such systems very useful (when you use direct flash). They are, in theory, more reliable than auto flashes or even than TTL off-the-film-plane flash systems.
As for "it doesn't take account the reflector", well i do have a flash meter, i always meter the real GN of the flash i'm using. But a "GN system" like the one on the Minolta Hi-matic 9, is great because you can just set the GN there and let the lens do the computation.
Well, after so much praise of the 7s, those arguments are like tentacles that are getting me into buying one of those cameras...
I grew up shooting when GN arithmetic was the only thing available. Having flashmetered electronic flash, generally speaking GN are virtually always optimistic, and along with a number of others who did the research and published our results over a decade and half ago, electronic flash GN tends to be 1EV optimistic compared to flash meter readings.I find such systems very useful (when you use direct flash). They are, in theory, more reliable than auto flashes or even than TTL off-the-film-plane flash systems.
I find such systems very useful (when you use direct flash). They are, in theory, more reliable than auto flashes or even than TTL off-the-film-plane flash systems.
As for "it doesn't take account the reflector", well i do have a flash meter, i always meter the real GN of the flash i'm using. But a "GN system" like the one on the Minolta Hi-matic 9, is great because you can just set the GN there and let the lens do the computation.
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