Basics: contact printing 4x5 without enlarger

[Rolleiflexible]

And look at that re-touching easel!
I don't think many of those survived - I've never seen one. Such skilled, and often undervalued, work.

I have one packed up in a box somewhere. Nice piece of kit.

 

[BAC1967]

One of these print scales come in handy to help determine exposure time.
Delta Projection Print Scale

 

[BAC1967]

Kodak made a suitcase enlarger, the Flurolite. It's a rarity these days.

That's what I use for enlarging and making digital scans of negatives. Not a great enlarger but it works for me with the limited space in my Laundry/darkroom. A whole suitcase kit is very rare to find, mostly bits and pieces out there.

 

[tom williams]

What is the output of your light bulb and what would be a sensible starting distance for testing?
Many thanks

A word of caution about lighting. I found - in my rube goldberg contact printing construction - that I couldn't count on the illumination from the bulbs I used to be consistent. I used 4 and 6 watt candelabra bulbs - 15 lumens - from Feit Electric. The bulbs were about 34" above the paper. I made 'proper proof' test strips at the beginning of each session, and sometimes in the same session, and often found large variations in time to maximum black. Later, I switched to an enlarger for a light source, which worked much better.

 

[Peter Schrager]

yes it's called a lightbulb on a moveable cord...use a 15 watt bulb put the cord on a pulley; connect to timer; I use a metronome; and you're all set to go...KISS!!!!!

 

[MattKing]

Point your light source up toward the ceiling and have the light reflect back.
You might be able to do it that way with a diffused electronic flash turned to low power.

 

[GregY]

I agree w Sanders. Trying to center a 4x5" neg on a 4x5" piece of paper without getting fingerprints all over the neg or the placement off center is a pain. Just use 5x7" paper.
I use a bulb in an inexpensive reflector connected to an old Time-o-light timer. I also place a piece of matt board over the glass and pull it off and replace it at the beginning and end of the exposure.....

 

[Digital Wendy]

Thank you so much for all the helpful suggestions here. I shall try using a flash, and then rig a 15w bulb on a pulley. I already use a metronome for timing, so that will work for me if I can slow the exposures down sufficiently.
I can see that Silverprint and First call both have Adox Lupex 5x7 in stock, but only packs of 100 sheets. Yikes! I'll start out with plain old RC and see where I get to.
Wendy

 

[Patrick Robert James]

If you are really trying to pinch pennies, 5x7 paper cost half what 8x10 paper costs, but a 4x5 cut piece is half that again.

I prefer 4x5 paper but if I have 5x7 paper laying around I'll use that too. If you are going to frame the contact print then use at least a 5x7 to make your life easier.

And you don't really even need a paper cutter if you are really trying to pinch pennies (or save time). If you are using fiber paper you can fold and tear it. Doesn't leave the nicest edge but it works.

 

[Digital Wendy]

Using a flash gun with very basic Ilford Multigrade RC paper is surprisingly effective. I have it pointed at the ceiling, about 80cm above my print, with an extra diffuser in place. Can't achieve very much control (basically 1 flash or 2!) but it IS giving me simple, useable prints. Quality issues are more a result of the boring flatness of RC paper. Paper with a bit more contrast would probably help.
I love the simplicity of this for my 5x7 negatives, so I shall invest in some Adox Lupex and an overhead light bulb on a pulley.
Thanks again to everyone who contributed here.
Wendy

 

[jwd722]

One of these print scales come in handy to help determine exposure time.
Delta Projection Print Scale

There is also the Kodak Projection Print Scale (I have one) and there are many of them on "that" auction site very reasonably priced

 

[koraks]

the boring flatness of RC paper. Paper with a bit more contrast would probably help.

Virtually all RC papers are variable contrast. If you pick up a set of Ilford multigrade filters, you could fit those over the light source. Use a higher grade filter for higher contrast.

With papers like Lupex and other fixed grade papers, either use a different paper grade (if possible) or tailor the negative to the contrast of the printing medium.

 

[jp498]

It's worth getting a wooden contact printing frame if you want sharp prints...
Probably find a 4x5 one for next to nothing, 8x10 and larger start at about $50 used and $100 new.
They have springs clamps on the back to make a nice tight sandwich so every part of the negative is tight on the paper. Very commonly used for alt process printing. The back of the frame also keeps half the glass clean when not in use.

 

[Tom Taylor]

Well this is a little late for the original posters but Jobo made what it called a “VarioFormat Easel” which you could make 1 8x10 or 2 5x7 or 4 4x5 prints on one sheet of paper. It even has a “focusing plane that is on the same plane as the surface of the paper and a “lift key” which lifts the exposed paper underneath so you don't have to touch the surface of the print.