Again, not sure where you intended to go with this diversion, but I remain with the position that the larger the format, the more light you need.
No, but they change the amount of light hitting the film.The reason I said anything at all is the fact that you made it sound like bigger film needs more light for reasons of exposure. It's not true. Bigger film only needs more like for practical reasons - namely that you usually must stop down the lens more than you would with smaller format.
Someone mentioned bellows extension. That's irrelevant to what I was saying. You need to factor bellows extension into exposure whenever it's relevant.
Neither bellows extension not aperture limitations change the iso of film.
No, but they change the amount of light hitting the film.
You need to include a shutter speed in that. If the shutter speed is 1/1000, then you can stop down to f16 and still take the photo without much worry. Since an 8x10 will be on a tripod, you can lower the shutter speed to 1/10 without much worry.
How many lumens are adequate for large format? There are several kits available at B&H with up to 12,000 and even 20,000 lumens (with 2 lamps).
For example:
I'm wondering if there is an official (i.e., vetted) lumens to watts conversion chart.
How many lumens are adequate for large format? There are several kits available at B&H with up to 12,000 and even 20,000 lumens (with 2 lamps).
For example:
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1697204-REG/zuma_z_led100kit_36_2_s_dual_led_light_kit.html
1/10 does not help when there is the potential for any subject motion (like respiration)
It works with some models
Yes, I was leaning towards continuous light because I believed it would be much easier to find the sweet spot adjustments for whatever lighting scenario I want to accomplish. I wasn't actually aware of modeling lights on strobes. That's very interesting and may open an entirely new direction for me to explore. Thank you!Given my experiences with two 60W LED heads (which will be of comparable lumens/Watt efficiency), two 100W LED heads is still not all that great for 8x10. The kit you linked to is very nice for digital video, but I think it's going to fall short for large format stills.
If you want, I can do some measurements on the dual 60W LED setup I've got in storage here. From there, you could extrapolate to a rough estimate of the power level that would be convenient for your usage. Would this help?
Also, is your objection to strobes based on a perception that continuous light is more intuitive to set up? In this case, I can reassure you that it isn't so bad in practice. Firstly, adjustable model lights on strobe heads can make a big difference. Secondly, you learn the ropes soon enough, being able to 'model' the scene in your imagination as you set it up. A digital camera can help to verify you're on the right track before committing a sheet of 8x10 film to a shot.
Electronic flash(es) with modeling lights are the best choice.
Just make sure that replacements for the modeling light bulbs and flash tubes can easily be obtained.
Very true. If you intend to work much on locations, be aware that C-stands are not very portable unless you have a van or SUV/station wagon. And you're going to want a cart or an assistant to help, as they can be quite heavy. There are decent folding stands out there that are strong and more portable, and probably cost about the same. The cheesy stands that are sometimes packaged with kits do come in handy for holding reflectors and flags when necessary. Whatever stands you end up with always use sandbags to anchor them.c stands and never have to spend money to improve upon them again
Electronic flash(es) with modeling lights are the best choice.
Just make sure that replacements for the modeling light bulbs and flash tubes can easily be obtained.
It's been years since I've used them but Black Line Speedtrons used a very expensive modeling light and if you allowed it to touch flesh, your finger for example, you might as well pull out your phone and order two more, cause the 'fingered' lamp bulb has had the kiss of death from your body oils.
You just do no know yet how soon it'll die and leave you in middle of a shoot, at the very worse moment you'll see that day.
Good Day,
I'm looking for a basic, nevertheless good quality, and affordable lighting kit (two lamps and stands) for portraits. Mostly indoors, various cameras, mostly black & white, but perhaps also some color.
I poked around at B and H but found the options and price ranges a bit overwhelming.
Any suggestions? Perhaps there are pre-existing threads that someone can point me to?
Many thanks in advance.
A dead modeling light does not make the flash inoperable, just more difficult to judge the lighting. If you use a setup you are familiar with, you can still make the shot.
No doubt, but the modeling lights are a great time saver when you are giving it your best effort and the model(s) is/are cranky and a happy model or art director is what pays next month's bills.
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