to calibrate and modify for modern batteryGeorge at Quality Light Metrics is the man.
Lately I have been trying to dramatically improve my analog photography with a better understanding of the basics of light capture.
Stepping back in time with my recently calibrated Weston 3 light meter has really opened my eyes to the skill that was and is still required to attain a black and white analog image as visualized. Exposing and developing a useable negative is relatively easy but capturing the exact image that is seen in my mind's eye has been elusive to this point. My recent step into medium format has really intensified my desire to get back to basics and learn to get the results I imagine.
So why a Weston? I can almost hear the head shaking.
Well, it is dead accurate. George at Quality Light Metrics is the man. And, as I investigate the capabilities of this ingenious little gadget in regards to the zone system, it is really quite capable. But as with any form of technology it does have it's limitations.
Still photography has been my recent interest in regard to fine tuning both my exposure and development. The ability to control the environment and take my time has proven extremely valuable in this regard. I pick an interesting household item and manufacture a low key scene using window light or indoor lighting in the hall against a dark room. Visualize the image I want in my head and then measure the scene with the Weston. It is necessary to get very close to the subject and slowly sweep the meter finding the high and low values but I am surprised at how intuitive this meter can be when one takes the time to learn how to use it.
Then there is landscape. This is where I am floundering a bit with the Weston. I have to admit that a spot meter is a far superior tool for this application. My Nikon F4's spot metering capabilities coupled with the Weston have taught me quite a bit. I will meter the landscape with the Weston and create a plan of attack. Then spot meter the same scene as a reality check. In my opinion, every photographer should have this experience. What an eye opener!
So what is the point?
To me, a photograph is a personal interpretation of a scene. Until I learn how to interpret that scene and then paint it with light using the tools at hand I am not in control of the outcome. Therefore I am not achieving the image seen in my mind's eye. When I am successful at achieving the pre-conceived image as a negative, darkroom printing is remarkably easy and the result is a physical print to be proud of.
I just want to share this experience as it has been rather profound.
I can't speak for the OP, but "dead accurate" for me means it agrees with what I've determined is my personal ISO for the film and paper I use. As long as my exposures are easy to print, it doesn't matter if my meter agrees with others and stays consistent. I use my Sekonic for 95% of my situations, rarely need my spot meter.Dead accurate??? How accurate is it?
The numbers on the Weston Master III are Candelas per Square foot. How close is it?I can't speak for the OP, but "dead accurate" for me means it agrees with what I've determined is my personal ISO for the film and paper I use. As long as my exposures are easy to print, it doesn't matter if my meter agrees with others and stays consistent. I use my Sekonic for 95% of my situations, rarely need my spot meter.
Wait until you get a 1 degree spot meter. It's hard to use anything else for landscapes once you get used to their pinpoint accuracy and ability to meter through lenses.
Still photography has been my recent interest in regard to fine tuning both my exposure and development. The ability to control the environment and take my time has proven extremely valuable in this regard. I pick an interesting household item and manufacture a low key scene using window light or indoor lighting in the hall against a dark room. Visualize the image I want in my head and then measure the scene with the Weston. It is necessary to get very close to the subject and slowly sweep the meter finding the high and low values but I am surprised at how intuitive this meter can be when one takes the time to learn how to use it.
If you can rig up an appropriate spacer (even wadded up aluminum foil will work in a pinch) you can use zinc-air hearing aid batteries. At 1.35V they get you close enough. They don't last very long, but they're very cheap and they'll keep your meter working more or less as intended.I recently picked up a Pentax 1/21 spot meter off the Bay for almost nothing. Unfortunately, I didn't do my homework and was unaware of the battery issues involving that model. The 640 mercury 1.3 volt powers the high range and is no longer made and there are no modern 1.3 volt substitutes. The low light mode runs off a 9V and is spot on to my Weston. I can at least use it for low light work. Haven't really given it much thought since George informed me that he didn't recommend putting any money into it. I might just throw a 1.5V alkaline in it and see what happens.
THANK YOU! for visualizing So many use "PREvisualize".
THANK YOU! for visualizing So many use "PREvisualize".
Pre-visualizing is too redundant. Might as well just take a nap.
Only caveat (Weston generally) is low light issues.
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