Dont worry even with the canon cannon stuff i found a nice page giving me diagrams of the different connectors cannon used
http://www.soundfirst.com/xlr.html
Alright i think I found the exact connector i need is a Cannon X11 connector
I also took a look at the lens and the lens plate. And got some more pictures.
I didnt see any locking screws or set screws and i looked at the other lens mount spots but and didnt see a place to put one in but i could be wrong.
http://imgur.com/gallery/TM2dWXl
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Look at the back of the lens turret where the partial zoom resides and you'll see a slotted retaining ring just like on the front of a lens. You'll need an optical spanner to remove it (if you want). It appears to be a custom lens turret with a port machined just for that model Pan Cinor Zoom. The other lens ports are standard "C" mount and you could rotate the turret to one of those and use a standard "C" mount Pan Cinor or Angenieux Zoom lens with a dog-leg viewfinder. The smaller holes (ports) were for the matching objective lenses that would have been used had the camera had an internal focusing telescope (which you don't). Leave them plugged...
The one lens port cover that has the extended screw thread stud is designed to lock the turret and not allow it to turn or spring-outward under the weight of the zoom. Always put it back in finger tight (snug) in order to maintain proper focus.
I suppose not having optical sound wouldn't be a complete loss after all the camera still works as a camera sound will just have to be taken with something else.
Maybe once i get it working i could use the empty space that would have otherwise been taken up and put a cassette recorder in it
I will have to see what i can do. .
The camera runs on a AC synchronous motor @ 60 hZ; you must use a tape recorder that also has a 60 hZ synchronous drive motor and have it plugged into the same AC outlet for it to sync. The camera will lose sync with any other type recorder after about 10 seconds, falling progressively behind the sound. Believe me, the issues surrounding sync were huge in film up until crystal sync was invented and implemented...
The problems are legion and many books were written on the subject; get one and read. Look for one published in the 1960's; they are cheap and easy to find on any used bookstore website like abebooks.com.
I believe I have a 400 foot film magazine i could be wrong but i dont think it looks big enough but then again it is called a pro 600 if that means anything.
Also when i did look at the film magazine i found that the rubber band on it is most likely original as its very much lost alot of elasticity..
Yes I think it is a 400' mag, but that's hard to tell from just a photo.
That leads to another question, how do i get the magazine open. Is there a screw or do the lids twist off. I was playing with it abit but i couldnt figure it out.
The magazine covers screw off counter-clockwise; the raised ribs are the handles to turn the lids. However, the magazines are a magnesium alloy and the lids often seize when not used for an extended period of time. Do NOT hit them with a hammer or force them with anything other than your hands! THEY WILL BREAK! Squirt a tiny bit of penetrating oil into the seams of the lids and wait a day or so before trying to spin them off. If that doesn't work, Do it again. Do it until they come off or you'll be sorry... Once they are off, hit the threads with a fine wire brush and take a candle and rub it lightly on the threads (after cleaning off the oil with a good solvent) on both the mag body and the mag lids. Make SURE no oil gets on the fabric lining of the film chambers or you'll have spotted film!
I am digging through my archive looking for my Auricon files, but have had no success as of yet; only one small pamphlet on the 100' load Cine-Voice camera so far.
Tons on Mitchells, Arriflex, Cine Kodak and so on. but no Auricon so far...