They'll probably look OK - they will look a little greyer if viewed alongside a clear base film, but not as much as you might assume from viewing a negative of the same emulsion developed in a solvent developer. The choice of clear base will have likely been for the simple reason of making the transparencies look as good as possible when viewed alongside E-6 transparencies on a light table - BW cinema reversal stock is on a grey tricaetate base - the eye adapts surprisingly well if it has no other reference.
I also have significant issues with your experimental design - Microphen is a poor choice because of its lower activity (great for making nice negs) and built-in mild solvency. What you really need is a highly active, low fog developer to slam development to completion as efficiently as possible, to which you add just enough solvent and/ or accelerator to ensure that developer can access all the silver very quickly - as your first development time goes up (in reversal) Dmax drops due to fog, and if you cannot access and develop all the silver, your Dmin rises too.
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Do you have any examples of 135mm TMax400 reversal processed?
As for you second comment, I understand a strong developer is needed for reversal. I'm using Microphen because I haven't seen anyone else done so but most importantly I was hoping to do reversal on films pushed 2 or 3 stops. Since I haven't seen anyone done reversal on really pushed films (2+ stops), I hoped I could use Microphen to do so. I've tried it at 1x stock but turned out my original solution was depleted. Next, I tried a 1.3x stock and it gave good results on Fomapan 400 @ 800 and Rollei Superpan 200 (not pushed). I still need to optimize further. If I wanted to do the traditional reversal processing with films shot at boxed speed then I would've done so. This particular thread was interesting for me because even at 1.3x Microphen, the TMax400 film leader was quite dark. I thought maybe the OP could experiment with silver solvent to solve this issue and I would then apply that to my protocol.
Since I haven't seen anyone done reversal on really pushed films (2+ stops),
My understanding is that the first developer just needs to be concentrated enough for reversal to work, that's why I tried it with a 1.3x Microphen stock (I tried to dissolve it to make 2x but it just wouldn't...). Thanks for the links. I don't speak or read German so it's hard to make out what the second link you posted said. What I can make out of it is the film listed and the suggested ISO. Honestly I'm just trying to figure out what went wrong with my TMax400 reversal attempt, whether it's the fact that even 1.3x Microphen wasn't strong enough or something else.You don't need examples of Tmax 400 that's been reversal processed to see where you are getting things wrong. If it's run correctly, it should look much like Delta 400 or Silvermax reversal processed, with slightly greyer highlights from the base if it's 135. In other words, like a good transparency with a full tonal range. If anything, Delta 400 seems to be more challenging to run in Scala - its Dmax seems to follow a normal distribution, with Dmax being considerably better at a 10 min FD time, rather than 7min 30s.
Scala 200x was spec'd to be pushed +3 and pulled -1. Quite a number of films are specified for push/ pull in Scala. That most don't go beyond +1 is likely because the Dmax loss is too visually obvious for many - a Dmax drop of the sort a +2 or +3 on Scala will produce will be quite noticeable on a light table - whereas the pull 1/ normal/ push 1 Dmax's are likely much closer perceptually. As you 'push', the fog from the FD goes up, Dmax goes down & makes your shadow speed appear to go up a bit.
You might also want to carefully read this post and this post before proceeding any further with Microphen. Microphen is nowhere near forceful enough for 'normal' reversal development, let alone push development. The accelerator component used in Scala allows for the developer to access the silver with potentially less of the problems noted for the use of silver solvents.
Thanks for these, Raghu! I kinda wish if he showed what the slides look like on a lightbox though. It seems like he played with temperature for the pushed films, which is something I haven't tried. I'm shooting a roll of Rollei Retro 80s at night with ISO 80, so will def try processing this in higher temperature.Well.. Fernando Pastor claims to have developed a "new reversal development gives no grain ISO 1600 on Fomapan 400 and little grain from 3200 to 25000 on Rollei Rpx 400 and a maximum sensivity of ISO100000". It's called Aura-R and there are some examples in the Facebook page as well as the web-site.
I kinda wish if he showed what the slides look like on a lightbox though.
IIt seems like he played with temperature for the pushed films, which is something I haven't tried.
Essentially what he's admitting is that his system cannot access the silver fast enough to develop it before overall fog grows to a level that kills Dmax.
The reversal process I tried resulted in the film leader to be very dark/gray, even the border markings are quite dark. I'm wondering if it's necessary to add a silver solvent since I read somewhere that TMax400 has some silver halides deep within the emulsion that's hard to be bleached.
You really should be using D-72 at 1+1 or undiluted, if Ilford's comments on using Bromophen for reversal FD are any guide.
Also, do check the sulphite levels in D-11 and D-72.
My understanding is that the first developer just needs to be concentrated enough for reversal to work, that's why I tried it with a 1.3x Microphen stock (I tried to dissolve it to make 2x but it just wouldn't...). Thanks for the links. I don't speak or read German so it's hard to make out what the second link you posted said. What I can make out of it is the film listed and the suggested ISO. Honestly I'm just trying to figure out what went wrong with my TMax400 reversal attempt, whether it's the fact that even 1.3x Microphen wasn't strong enough or something else.
Seems reasonable to me that the film doesn't respond in the same way and the recipe may not be the best for current TMax?
So, regarding the Dietrich recipe... it was from the 1980s, from the original incarnation of TMax 400. I know it was substantially reformulated sometime around what, 2002? Seems reasonable to me that the film doesn't respond in the same way and the recipe may not be the best for current TMax?
Do you have any data or seen any data that informs your statement on the suitability of Dietrich recipe for current TMax films? I would be interested in such data.
Yes, that's right. OTOH is there any process that can reverse TMax 400 at box speed without requiring a halide solvent? Do you or anybody know of any process that has used the first developer in that famous Agfa-Gaevert patent for reversing TMax 400 at box speed and got good results? Studio 13's process, though allegedly based on that patent, is opaque and could be deviating from the patent in substantial ways. Does @Henning Serger have any insight to share on this topic?
So, regarding the Dietrich recipe... it was from the 1980s, from the original incarnation of TMax 400. I know it was substantially reformulated sometime around what, 2002? Seems reasonable to me that the film doesn't respond in the same way and the recipe may not be the best for current TMax?
What I dont understand here is how sodium sulphite affects things... such are the levels for various developers:
PQ: Sodium Sulphite 50 g (https://www.largeformatphotography....iversal-Recipe&p=553468&viewfull=1#post553468)
D-11: Sodium Sulphite 75 g
D-19: Sodium Sulphite 90 g
D-72: Sodium Sulphite 45 g
Do you have any data or seen any data that informs your statement on the suitability of Dietrich recipe for current TMax films? I would be interested in such data.
Consider the dilutions - and that recipe you linked is essentially ID-62 rather than the much more concentrated PQ Universal, either way at the dilution recommended (PQ Universal 1+5), you're looking at about 30g/l sulphite - D-11 is used at full strength.
@pkr1979 D19 is a reasonable starting point as a first developer, that you can alter by adding whatever quantity of solvent you wish. Different films may require more or less solvent, some none at all. Keeping a 50% w/v solution of potassium thiocyanate is a good, practical idea. Actually, this is a recommended thing to do, since KSCN is highly hygroscopic and can easily pick a lot of water, making it very iffy to use.
I saw a good recommendation from @Rudeofus on another thread. He essentially suggested adjusting development time until you are happy with the contrast, then add solvent until the highlights are clear and then restrainer (e.g. potassium bromide) until the blacks are dark enough.
Isnt this:
Sodium sulphite, anhydrous = 50 grams
Sodium carbonate, anhydrous = 60 grams
Hydroquinone = 12 grams
Phenidone = 0.5 grams
Potassium bromide = 2 grams
Benzotriazole (1% solution) = 20 ml
Water to 1 litre.
PQ?
How much sulphite would PQ contain compared to the others?
EDIT: There is still less sulphite when developing with PQ then the others then?
Im probably going for D19/D62 - or D11... I've been told its finer grained.
No, I don't. Only from this thread. I was pointing out that the development times changed a lot and so it's possible that the film needs more or less time or more or less solvent than the original.
Maybe D67 would be a good first developer then, and D19 a good second developer? Or maybe pyro...
This is great advice and Rudy knows his stuff. However, blind adherence isn't advisable. It's not the case that contrast will keep on increasing as you increase developing time. Fog might go up significantly and reduce the contrast if development is prolonged. If you try to cut the fog by increasing the concentration of the restrainer, then you're likely to sacrifice some speed. Increasing the halide solvent can clear the highlights but also lighten the midtone which might not be to your liking. It's a difficult balancing act that can't always be achieved by simplistic tuning of the variables involved.
If Photo Formulary is still selling Dietrich's stuff without having tested it on the current TMax films and confirming that it gives good results, then it is a sorry story.
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