B&W Paper Reversal

[pkr1979]

Hi all,

So, Ive got some 8x10 Ektachrome E100 I'd like to try to make some silver chloride contact paper copies of (Adox Lupex). To do this I would have to reverse it. I have done a lot of B&W film reversal, and I am wondering if I can use the same bleach (I use dichromate) and clearing? Furthermore, the paper is pretty developer dependent - and I assume I will have to use a stronger dilution (more developer and less water)? Exposure time is already quite long but I assume this also has to be longer if one wants to reverse?

I am aware that this has to be tried before one knows, but I would assume that general principles for black and white paper reversal is a good start.

Cheers
Peter

 

[koraks]

In principle, yes, you can use the same bleach. Dialing in the desired contrast will be challenging though, especially because Lupex is a high contrast material (grade 4) and slides have a long range. So that's a fundamental mismatch and it may prove to be (too) tricky to try and coax the paper into a longer tonal scale. Moreover, the paper is only blue-sensitive, so you'll lose most color information, making the result even more harsh.

Would it be a problem if the resulting prints are extremely harsh with completely blocked shadows and blown out highlights? Or are you looking for a normal continuous tone result? In that case, I'd just scan and output to whatever suitable/desired media.

 

[pkr1979]

In principle, yes, you can use the same bleach. Dialing in the desired contrast will be challenging though, especially because Lupex is a high contrast material (grade 4) and slides have a long range. So that's a fundamental mismatch and it may prove to be (too) tricky to try and coax the paper into a longer tonal scale. Moreover, the paper is only blue-sensitive, so you'll lose most color information, making the result even more harsh.

Would it be a problem if the resulting prints are extremely harsh with completely blocked shadows and blown out highlights? Or are you looking for a normal continuous tone result? In that case, I'd just scan and output to whatever suitable/desired media.

Ha Yes - it will be a problem if the resulting prints are extremely harsh with completely blocked shadows and blown out highlight. But it doesn't have to be a continuous tone result. I like the Ortho look, and contrast can be reduced with preflashing. I get that this is something I might try only once... but I would like to try to see what happens

So - same bleach and clearing... And developer strength? And exposure time compared to regular black and white?

 

[koraks]

You'll have to test the developer configuration and exposure. I expect you'll have to work with a much longer exposure than for normal printing since you'll have to smash something like 2.7logD (at least!) into a printing paper that likes, what, 0.6 or so. So that means 7 stops or so more exposure and then cut back development so you don't develop everything into deep blacks. Again, I'm not optimistic you can achieve this kind of extreme compression.

 

[pkr1979]

Indeed - I might skip this one.