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3rd time lucky?
3rd time lucky?
B&W film developing
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Yes, the link is working this time, thanks!
This is exactly what you need to know to develop Black & White film at home. Allow me to add a bit more explanation:
- Develop: The developer reacts chemically with the exposed silver nitrate grains in the film emulsion, and leaves the unexposed ones alone. Pick a developer, and stick with it for a good long time. You won't get consistent results unless you are consistent about your methods. All of the common developers are GOOD, and inconsistencies in your darkroom procedures will cause far more variation in results than you will ever see by simply switching developers, unless and until your technique is good and consistent.
- Stop: Stop bath is nothing more than a dilute solution of acetic acid, otherwise known as diluted "white vinegar". Its purpose is to stop the developer from doing anything else once you want it to stop. You dump out the developer, pour in the stop bath, and agitate. You can get the same result (albeit a bit slower) by simply rinsing with plain water (some people call this a "water stop bath"). Personally, I mix about an ounce of household white vinegar with a quart of water, and use that as a stop bath. Cheap, effective, and easy.
- Rinse: Since most people re-use fixer, you need to make sure to rinse almost all traces of developer and stop bath off of the film before you pour in the fixer, to ensure that you don't "wear it out" prematurely. A couple of fill with water-agitate-pour it out cycles will be plenty.
- Fix: The fixer reacts chemically with the unexposed silver nitrate grains, preventing them from reacting further to light, and allowing them to be washed out of the emulsion. Once the fixer has done its job, the film is safe to handle in the light.
- Rinse: You'll want to do a good job of rinsing the film, to get all traces of the development, stop, and fixing chemicals washed out. Use multiple changes of the water, agitate thoroughly, and let it soak to dissolve everything that shouldn't be there. If film is not both fixed and washed sufficiently, then it can degrade over time.
- Dry: Most people hang their film from some sort of clip to drip dry. To reduce curling, you can hang a second clip on the bottom of the film as a weight. To reduce water spotting, try to use distilled water for the final rinse, and/or add a "rinse agent" like Kodak PhotoFlo to the final rinse water. PhotoFlo is similar to a detergent -- it reduces the surface tension of the water, and prevents it from "beading" on the film, which in turn reduces the possibility of water spots when it dries.
The advice to use a developer that takes longer than 5 minutes is good. Your timing will not be perfect -- you are not a machine. With development times longer than 5 minutes, a few seconds of variation in how fast or slow you dump out or pour in the chemicals will be insignificant in the grand scheme of things. On the other hand, if your total development time is supposed to be 1 minute, then a 6 second change is a full 10% of the total!
Personally, I use Kodak HC-110 developer, and I dilute it straight from the bottle of concentrate. For Developing Fuji Acros 100 film in my tanks, I use a syringe to put 9.8ml of HC-110 into my developer measuring bottle, and add water up to the 600ml mark. I cap and shake it gently to mix, and then pour it into my tank and start the timer. 9 minutes seems to work perfect for me with my water at about 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Since my development time is so long, a few seconds of variation are meaningless.
- Rick
Thank you very much, Rick, for your first post on my thread.
Yes, this is what i was looking for, the procedures and steps in order so i know when to use this and that and why, before i thought i should use developer and the fixer and then stop bath, now i know that stop bath should be in between the developer and fixer, and also now i know what is a "wet" or "rinse" agent do to the process, now i have more clearly idea about it, but i will keep reading and watching the videos about the time and the temp so to be sure i follow the instructions in the ideal conditions as much as i can, i will not feel so sad or upset if it didn't success first time [if it will, then that is a great news anyway], but it may happen that i may success first time and fail second time as well, so as long i can follow the instructions and try to match all the environment or conditions for the developing process then i am closer to done it successfully 60-90% [10% for mistakes/errors factor on time or temp].
Rick, Dennis, good write ups!
How long does your opened HC-110 concentrate last before it should be thrown out?
MattKing
Moderator
HC-110 concentrate is extremely durable - I have had opened bottles last for many, many months.
I now transfer it to smaller 8 oz bottles, and I expect that it will last for years!
Matt
This isn't directly related to the original situation, but here is an exchange I had with another beginner some years ago. I haven't taken the time to edit it into a coherent conversation outside the context of the email exchange, but the gist is there. Hopefully this will help someone out by being in the search archives later. Not quite as technically detailed as Rick's description, but more of a practical description for a young person working in a kitchen.
=============
I see you've asked about Ilford and developing a couple of places. I assume you're really just starting out from scratch, but you may have a little more practice than I realize. If anything is too basic, gloss over it. I'm just trying to get another film convert!
For Ilford Delta 100 and Delta 400, great film BTW, I strongly suggest you start with the Ilford recommended DD-X liquid developer. It may not be the greatest stuff in the world according to some people ( I use it a lot, so I like it), but it's sure good enough for Ilford to recommend it as the primary developer. Mix it just like the package says, 1+4 and try to keep is a 68F (20C) if you can. The liquid is way simpler to deal with that the powders. After you learn more, try some others.
If you're looking to cut costs, and you don't mind the smell of vinegar, stop bath is nothing but acetic acid, the same stuff that's in distilled vinegar (not cider vinegar which isn't distilled - you need the clear stuff). You can use distilled vinegar cut to about 10% (it's too strong like it comes from the grocery store, so mix it 1+9). If you can afford real indicating stop-bath, it doesn't work any better but it's more convenient. Frankly, if you can't afford either, then two changes of water work just about as well as real stop bath. When I was a young kid this is what I did because water was cheaper and my mother didn't want me using all her vinegar.
Use any kind of fixer you want, but Ilford film does not require hardener, so a rapid fixer is a *LOT* easier to work with and get good results. Again, I recommend liquid chemicals when you're starting out. The high priced fixers keep better in the bottle over time. The cheap ones work fine.
If you can afford Ilford's Ilfotol (my favorite) or Kodak's Photo-flo use them, but if you can't afford them then I have just used plain old Jet-Dry sometimes; the same stuff that you put in the dishwasher. It isn't quite as good, but it works. Use tiny amounts of Jet-dry (1:200), just a drop or two in a glass of water. You don't want it to make suds on your film, but it should make a few bubbles if you put it in a jar and shake it. The idea is to get the water to sheet off the film so it doesn't spot exactly like Jet-Dry makes water sheet off the dishes in the dishwasher so they don't spot. (Cascade doesn't work well I've found; Jet-Dry works better.) The only difference is that Jet-Dry has a tiny bit of blue dye in it so it looks pretty in the bottle on the grocery store shelf. The base chemical is the same stuff as the Ilford or Kodak products. I'll often mix up a gallon of the Jet-Dry or Ilfotol formula in an old milk jug. It doesn't go bad like developer. Just fill up the jug, drop a few drops in the top, and shake it to make sure you get a few bubbles. If not, add a couple more drops and shake it again. You don't want suds like shampoo, but just a few bubbles.
Grab the data sheet for the Ilford developers from somewhere *BEFORE* you start unless you have really great temperature control. Temperature in B&W isn't as critical as color, but it matters enough to pay attention to it.
Mix the required amount of developer for your tank, stop bath (or vinegar - and if you use vinegar also use a water wash after the vinegar), fixer, and photo flo (or Jet-Dry) plus a couple of jars of clean water, and if you can keep them in a tub of water they're all the same temperature. Then measure the temperature of the *DEVELOPER*. Look up the temperature on the Ilford chart, and determine your developing time based on temperature. Everything is standardized to 68F, so if it's warm in the house and all you liquids are at 75F or 72F or 78Fyou need to adjust.
Assuming you have the tank loaded and ready to go, set some kind of timer or watch a clock with a second hand, then pour in the developer and agitate as appropriate.
The sequence I use when working by hand is this:
1) Developer time as by developer chart - discard afterwards (one-shot)
2) Stop bath one minute - save if indicating bath, discard if vinegar
3) Water Bath (just fill and rinse) - discard afterwards
4) Fixer - I usually over fix by going to 4 minutes on fresh fixer and longer if I'm reusing fixer. If you're only doing small amounts of film you can save the fixer for about 3-4 rolls, then discard it. If you really do a lot of film then the fixer has silver in it and is bad to pour down the drain. But even as much as 5-6 rolls of film per week is meaninless to the sewer system.
5) Water Wash - 4 changes of water with agitation if you use rapid fixer, a lot more if you use a hardening fixer.
6) Ilfotol or Jet-Dry as the last step. Discard this at the end.
So when I'm working by hand I usually have 9 mason jars set in order in a big roasting pan full of water before I even start putting the film in the changing bag. The mason jars have a wide mouth so the chemicals pour out smoothly instead of glugging out like a soda bottle. The I go through them like so:
1) Developer (this is the only time critical step - too little and too much mess up the film)
2) Stop Bath (hard to do too much, and pretty hard to do too little)
3) Water
4) Fixer (Can't do too much, but you *CAN* do too little - make sure you don't under fix)
5) Water (swish 60 seconds)
6) Water (swish 60 seconds)
7) Water (swish 60 seconds)
8) Water (swish 60 seconds)
9) Ilfotol (swish 60 seconds)
As far as the comments about you can't do too much, it's not exactly true. If you go answer the phone and forget about the stuff and come back the next morning you can find the emulsion lifting off the film base if it's in water. But If you need to fix for 4 minutes and you wind up fixing for 8 minutes it won't hurt anything. You can't over fix the film like you can overcook a turkey. You can under fix the film, however, and if the film is milky when you take it out this is what has happened. Same with the stop bath, once the developer is stopped, it's impossible over stop it, but after a long enough time (a few hours) the acetic acid will begin to harm the film.
Don't be discouraged if the first few rolls are less than perfect. Even though this isn't really hard, it's a lot to keep track of at first. By the third or fourth time though, it's pretty easy.
It helps a lot if you have a kitchen timer that you can set down to the second. The wind-up ones that just turn to the minute aren't really very useful. The little electronic ones can usually be set to the second, and you can pick up several at the dollar store sometimes. That give you one for the developer and one for the fixer so you don't have to fumble around or watch the clock. The other steps are easy enough to count in your head of just watch a second hand on the kitchen clock.
===========
When I was learning I found the hardest part was getting the reel loaded in a changing bag. Seems I very often forgot to put the scissors in the bag so I could cut the end of the film from the 35mm cassette. That meant I had to carefully take one arm out, pinch off the bag at the arm hole, find the scissors, and then put my arm back in, all the while trying not to let light in the bag! Later, when I had a way to get the bathroom really dark and could quit using the bag using the counter top instead, I would find that I had put the scissors down somewhere on the counter and had to feel around for them for a while. Try to decide where you're going to keep the tools, and know where you have them - either on this or that side of the bag always, or some kind of system that works for you. (I just drop the scissors into a clean drinking glass sitting on the counter now, so I don't have to hunt for them in the dark.)
If you're doing 120 roll film it's a little different. You have to tear the tape off the the backing paper, not cut the film from the cassette. I find it's far better to carefully peel the tape from the paper (most modern backing paper is plastic coated, so the tape peels cleanly if you're careful and don't pull it too fast) then fold the tape over the end of the film. My own experience is that peeling the tape off the film instead of off the paper is harder in the dark, and I sometimes tear the film is it's one of the thin based films. You may find it works differently for you.
All of this you have to do without seeing what you're doing. No matter how much you practice with rolls of sacrificed practice film in the light so you can learn the motions, the first few times you have to do it without seeing it is weird and you fumble with it. But like driving a car or riding a bike, it becomes natural and you just fall into it after a few times. Like I mentioned earlier, I learn as a kid, so it can't be all that hard to do. Just make sure you have a really clear image of what the film reel looks like and where the film goes in so you tell if you've got it backwards in your hand in the dark. Doesn't matter if you use plastic or steel reels; they both only load one way and you can get confused the first few time you can't see it. If you know what little ridge or bump to feel for in the dark you can get it oriented properly pretty easily.
The chemistry part is absolutely no harder than making a cake or a meatloaf from your grandmother's scratch recipe. It may not be quite as easy as popping some frozen thing in the microwave, but it really isn't all that hard.
After you get into it, if you learn a little about push processing and pull processing, you can do a lot with film. And I imagine you already have a scanner or at least have access to one. I'm not into Photoshop like my daughter, but if you get good clean negatives, and then do a good job of scanning, you can combine and use the best of both the film and digital world. I really can't understand what so many people argue about film vs. digital. It seems to me that the best creative choice it to use both and do what works best in each genre. After all, people have been doing mixed media for centuries. Digital is just one more tool in the mixed media bag. You may as well use both. A Holga or an old Kodak brownie or Agfa folder with 120 roll film scanned in seems like a great combination.
Hey Michael,
Thank you very much!
I don't know what to say, i will send my first "Color" negative roll to the lab and see if i did take good shots or not, and i will shoot with my second roll [First B&W] sooner or later, but i was looking to develop it myself rather than taking it to the lab, so that i will just wait the color roll result to see if the exposure is spot on or good enough, if so then i will shoot with the b&w roll and i will try to develop it as you mentioned with the chemicals i will choose later, and i will do it in our photography club darkroom.
It seems all the steps are not hard, but it needs practice, same when we started the photography we think everything is hard or difficult to learn, now i can take photos like i am drinking a water [not that easy, i am kidding].
We will see what i will get and i will post here or on the forum of what the results i've get at the end.
greetings to the United Arab Emirates TareqPhoto,
You have received a lot of replies and exellent infomation. Maybe it could get a little confusing yes? I am putting in two links for you to save, I have checked and cannot find them in this thread.
the first one will give you all the info you need with chemicals/time against the film you use.
http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php
This second one will give you all the info to develop and print
http://www3.telus.net/drkrm/
Sometimes easier than reading a book as different people learn in different ways- Practice loading film onto the tank reel with a cheap roll, you are gonna expose this film because you practise in daylight first, then practise in the dark. Once you have this mastered and have the film in the tank with the lid on you can virtually read through the process as you go. Keep it simple to start and be consistant - I think you will be pleasantly surprised with the outcome. And let us know how it goes. regards
You have received a lot of replies and exellent infomation. Maybe it could get a little confusing yes? I am putting in two links for you to save, I have checked and cannot find them in this thread.
the first one will give you all the info you need with chemicals/time against the film you use.
http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php
This second one will give you all the info to develop and print
http://www3.telus.net/drkrm/
Sometimes easier than reading a book as different people learn in different ways- Practice loading film onto the tank reel with a cheap roll, you are gonna expose this film because you practise in daylight first, then practise in the dark. Once you have this mastered and have the film in the tank with the lid on you can virtually read through the process as you go. Keep it simple to start and be consistant - I think you will be pleasantly surprised with the outcome. And let us know how it goes. regards
Again, thank you very much for your help.
In fact, i am not sure what i can do in film as i shoot with film just for fun, and i try to read everything and ask a lot so then i can be sure that i have all the tools or knowledge i need to shoot with film, i don't want even it is usual to waste some rolls at the beginning because i just started and for testing or learning, i will be happy if i waste it when i have the information or knowledge because then i know what wrong i did and i can fix it fast or next roll, but if i didn't read or ask, i am sure i will waste 60-70% of the rolls i have and even if i will learn and know what the problem then i will not have enough rolls to do the rest and not planning to buy more after al that wasted rolls.
I just wait and read and check everything of my skill and equipment and then i will shoot, the development will be worthless if the roll from the beginning is lost and done wrong or affected, but if i pass first step which is shooting with proper exposure and know how to load and unload the film to be ready with development then i will be happy, the development part is not hard but i just ask to be sure i will be ready to do it, at least mistakes with chemicals can be forgiven more than the mistakes before the development when the roll is ruined already.
I will check that changing bag or cloth in the club, there is one developed failed film in the box there and the reel, i will just have fun to place the film on the reel there and see how difficult it will be, who knows, it may be easier than what i think because i didn't try before, today i will have more time with the film tool and will shoot another roll after my first color roll one, as i don't want to shoot with B&W now until i can afford the chemicals for the B&W development, i don't want to keep that exposed "undeveloped" film waiting until i can develop it, and i just will start with film that i have packs of rolls rather than 1 film roll only.
Tareq, a couple of things to keep in mind. Make sure all of your chemicals and water are the same temperature. Remember it s a gelatin based emulsion so if you want consistent grain that is the first step. Also, keep your wash time as minimal as possible. 5 Minutes has worked for me for about 45 years. Feel free to email me if I can be of any help. Don
Now i am checking online about which or where to get B&W chemicals, and i hope if any books about film can show in details and order step by step about development or is there any book about development itself?
Also i forgot to ask something after i read a topic in flickr about chemicals: How to store chemicals? and how many rolls i can develop with the chemicals? I mean B&W chemicals and only one time purchase chemicals, as i am worry now that i didn't find any store in UAE to sell chemicals so i must order it online, and i should know before i order how many time i can develop and for how long it can be used.
Also i forgot to ask something after i read a topic in flickr about chemicals: How to store chemicals? and how many rolls i can develop with the chemicals? I mean B&W chemicals and only one time purchase chemicals, as i am worry now that i didn't find any store in UAE to sell chemicals so i must order it online, and i should know before i order how many time i can develop and for how long it can be used.
Hey again,
Finally i bought few chemicals from a local store[or company] here in my area, and still i didn't complete my darkroom equipment, so until i do that, how can i store those chemicals? the weather here in my country started to be hot, and even i didn't open the chemicals bottles [and one powder pack] is there any problem if the temp here is hot[ i store in room temp which can be vary from 18 of A/C up to 28C]?
Finally i bought few chemicals from a local store[or company] here in my area, and still i didn't complete my darkroom equipment, so until i do that, how can i store those chemicals? the weather here in my country started to be hot, and even i didn't open the chemicals bottles [and one powder pack] is there any problem if the temp here is hot[ i store in room temp which can be vary from 18 of A/C up to 28C]?
You can store the powder chems in a cool dark place and the un-opened liquids the same. It doesn't hurt to put them in a refridgerator for storage. I keep my chems and extra paper in a seperate fridge(not the one we keep our food in) and my film in the freezer compartment of it. I feel its cheap insurance for fresh products. I only keep mixed chems in my darkroom.
Rick
Rick
Due to the fact you live in a very hot country I can only recommend to bring the temperature back to 20 degrees C with ice cubes.
Storage of chemicals in a cool place however for some chemicals at a 4 degees C fridge can be too cool while some crystals can come out of the solution and not going back when bringing back to 20 degrees C.
For the developer I can only recommend a one shot type developer where you have max. reproducibility and a no risk for a first (and last) development. Easy to start is a long life liquid developer like HC-110 or Rodinal. Last developer is based on Para-Amino Phenol and can be kept over 10 years without any problem but is also an exeption in storage time. Most developers will do 4-12 months only. However Rodinal is most suitable for slow and medium speed B&W cubical crystal films.
Diafine (BKA USA) 2 bath could also be a solution for you because it's temperature independent from 20-29 degrees C. But here you can not control the density of the film anymore.
A stop bath has normally an indicator: Goes from Yellow to Blue and is finished then. Fixer you can re-use till 2g/ltr. Ag+ ions only which can be tested with a fix tester in a simply way or just count the amount of films for the working solution. Here is also a difference of 40% in capacity if you're using tabular grain type films or classical cubical type films. Tgrain type films are blocking the fix process earlier.
Maybe you have to order some parts or materials on-line in Europe or USA.
I will include a PDF for Rodinal (former Agfa chemical) and Diafine (BKA) so that you can read the instructions for these type of developers.
Dead Link Removed
and
http://www.fotohuisrovo.nl/documentatie/Diafine-data.pdf
Rodinal needs slow agitation and a preferable developing temperature of 18-20 degrees C.
The developer works in the surface with very sharp crispy negatives.
Diafine is suitable for push processing so you need to adapt the box speed to recommended iso values.
A list of very succesful recommended combinations is included.
Hope to be helpful for you,
Robert
Storage of chemicals in a cool place however for some chemicals at a 4 degees C fridge can be too cool while some crystals can come out of the solution and not going back when bringing back to 20 degrees C.
For the developer I can only recommend a one shot type developer where you have max. reproducibility and a no risk for a first (and last) development. Easy to start is a long life liquid developer like HC-110 or Rodinal. Last developer is based on Para-Amino Phenol and can be kept over 10 years without any problem but is also an exeption in storage time. Most developers will do 4-12 months only. However Rodinal is most suitable for slow and medium speed B&W cubical crystal films.
Diafine (BKA USA) 2 bath could also be a solution for you because it's temperature independent from 20-29 degrees C. But here you can not control the density of the film anymore.
A stop bath has normally an indicator: Goes from Yellow to Blue and is finished then. Fixer you can re-use till 2g/ltr. Ag+ ions only which can be tested with a fix tester in a simply way or just count the amount of films for the working solution. Here is also a difference of 40% in capacity if you're using tabular grain type films or classical cubical type films. Tgrain type films are blocking the fix process earlier.
Maybe you have to order some parts or materials on-line in Europe or USA.
I will include a PDF for Rodinal (former Agfa chemical) and Diafine (BKA) so that you can read the instructions for these type of developers.
Dead Link Removed
and
http://www.fotohuisrovo.nl/documentatie/Diafine-data.pdf
Rodinal needs slow agitation and a preferable developing temperature of 18-20 degrees C.
The developer works in the surface with very sharp crispy negatives.
Diafine is suitable for push processing so you need to adapt the box speed to recommended iso values.
A list of very succesful recommended combinations is included.
Hope to be helpful for you,
Robert
hmmmmmm, got confused with the last 2 posts, i will keep the chemicals in the room temp and see, not sure if i can put them on the frid or keep it out, but i keep them in the plastic box away from the light, room temp, it is vary as i turn on the A/C and turn off when away, so the temp can be between 18C up to 28C during the day time.
Photo chemical reactions you can only have with developers not with Stop (Citric Acid / Acetic Acid) or Fix (Sodiumthiosulfate). Citric Acid can have bacterial grow when storing for a long time on higher temperature, fix lifetime you can prolong by putting in fridge.
For the developer it depends on the active components. Rodinal you can store on room temperature. It doesn't matter too much if it's cool or not. Practical in use because you can use a small amount of developer (e.g. 10ml) in a lot of water. Maybe your tap water is in summer a problem in temperature, e.g 24 degrees you have to cool down to 20 then. (Ice cubes, au bain marie).
When using e.g. Diafine you make 2x 950ml (1 quart A+B) and re-use this every time. You can use it temperature independing according the Diafine specifications in a wide range. Therefore maybe practical for you too.
Store therefore a developer in a dark brown bottle or a regular bottle you put in the dark.
Some developers can crystallize when putting it away too cool (4 degrees C). The nasty thing is that some crystalls won't get into the solution again till about 40-50 degrees C. which is not practical at all when this is the case. Take also notice that some developers (powder) are sensitive of the tap water quality. E.g. Xtol can not stand to much metal ions in the tap water because the lifetime (6 months) is then cut dramatically without warning. So in this case use destilled water for the 5 ltr. stock which is for you not so practical for cooling down. (Unless you decide to use it 1+1).
So in between all these guidelines you have to find your own practical way in the choice of developers and chemical materials.
It's also clear that heating up is much easier to do then cooling down. Take also notice that all chemicals should be in the same temperature range within a few degrees C. A developer time you have to correct precisely according the temperature table (see for example the Ilford pages).
The fact you have an A/C means it takes more hours to stabilize the fluids in temperature.
Whatever your choice is: I whish you a lot of succes in your own film development in the Emirates.
best regards,
Robert
For the developer it depends on the active components. Rodinal you can store on room temperature. It doesn't matter too much if it's cool or not. Practical in use because you can use a small amount of developer (e.g. 10ml) in a lot of water. Maybe your tap water is in summer a problem in temperature, e.g 24 degrees you have to cool down to 20 then. (Ice cubes, au bain marie).
When using e.g. Diafine you make 2x 950ml (1 quart A+B) and re-use this every time. You can use it temperature independing according the Diafine specifications in a wide range. Therefore maybe practical for you too.
Store therefore a developer in a dark brown bottle or a regular bottle you put in the dark.
Some developers can crystallize when putting it away too cool (4 degrees C). The nasty thing is that some crystalls won't get into the solution again till about 40-50 degrees C. which is not practical at all when this is the case. Take also notice that some developers (powder) are sensitive of the tap water quality. E.g. Xtol can not stand to much metal ions in the tap water because the lifetime (6 months) is then cut dramatically without warning. So in this case use destilled water for the 5 ltr. stock which is for you not so practical for cooling down. (Unless you decide to use it 1+1).
So in between all these guidelines you have to find your own practical way in the choice of developers and chemical materials.
It's also clear that heating up is much easier to do then cooling down. Take also notice that all chemicals should be in the same temperature range within a few degrees C. A developer time you have to correct precisely according the temperature table (see for example the Ilford pages).
The fact you have an A/C means it takes more hours to stabilize the fluids in temperature.
Whatever your choice is: I whish you a lot of succes in your own film development in the Emirates.
best regards,
Robert
OK, thank you very much!
They are fine stored at 28C. Do not let the fixer store too cold, but that is not the problem you have.
Once open oxygen is the spoiler in storage.
When you mix and develop you need to mix with cool water to reduce the temperature or the chemical reactions will be too fast.
But to store, 28C is OK.
Tareq,a little bit of info if you need to use ice cubes to bring temp down. Fill all your 35mm plastic film containers with water and freeze them, then use these in a water bath instead of bagged ice.
regards
CW
regards
CW
OK, i am talking about storing the un-used chemicals, just new not opened yet, how i keep them save until the first time to use them, as i feel maybe i will need 2 weeks or so until i complete my darkroom, so i don't want those chemicals to start reacting and shorten the lifetime before i use it, i will see how can i store them once they are open and mixed.
Tareq, as michealbsc stated on previous page. They will be ok unopened at the temp range you have given.
Last week i brought 2 lots of developer that had been in a store for up to 5 years, one liquid, one powder. We get 25c to 36c summer temp here, both developers work fine, in fact the powder was so old it was in a solid block and i had to use the cheese grater. hehe, don`t tell the wife!
Post a photo of the darkroom when it is finished.
regards
CW
Last week i brought 2 lots of developer that had been in a store for up to 5 years, one liquid, one powder. We get 25c to 36c summer temp here, both developers work fine, in fact the powder was so old it was in a solid block and i had to use the cheese grater. hehe, don`t tell the wife!
Post a photo of the darkroom when it is finished.
regards
CW
One bottle of T-Max developer [liquid]
One Fixer [Powder]
2 bottles of Wetting agent [Photo-Flo]
All Kodak chemicals.
I don't think i will have a darkroom, i may use the kitchen or a toilet maybe, but i hope i can use our photography club darkroom, we will see when and where i will start my developing.
Just keep the mixed chems in bottles that are filled to the top. If there is not enough to fill to the top, either squeeze the (plastic) bottle to remove as much air as possible, or spray butane in the top of the bottle (after refilling with chems) or adding marbles to raise the liquid level. If you are using the chems alot, then I wouldn't worry about it too much. Keep your mixed chems in a dark cupboard out of the light when not in use. Have a variety of sizes of bottles and label them. Also, for safety sake, only put developer in bottles marked developer, and fixer in bottles used for fixer, so there is no chance of cross-contamination to ruin the chems. Its very easy to have a variety of bottle sizes with all the soda and other drinks, just save them and wash them out with very hot water.
I hope that is the answer you are seeking.
Rick
I hope that is the answer you are seeking.
Rick
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Thank you very much!
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