There will almost certainly exist photography books either written in or translated to your native language. Do a google search, or search your local online bookstore.
You will expose your film according to how you will develop it later, and it is quite nice to learn it at the same time.
... i am worry about to be careful or accurate about the time and the temperature of the processing...
When you just start out, get as close as possible to the published time and temperature, but don't worry about it.
Repeatable time and temperature control is important for consistent results, but in the beginning you have so many things happening that are new it's not even worth considering. Get as close as you reasonably can and just do it. No one starts out as a master. You have to make mistakes to learn.
As an old guy I knew told me, you learn to walk by falling down. Just do it, and you'll begin to get the hang of it. It's no harder than riding a bicycle, but you have to learn it just like riding a bicycle.
Watch Jason's videos more than once. You'll get more out of them.
Michael
C-41 is a process used for developing color negatives. However there are B&W films in the market that are processed in C-41 chemicals. Main selling point in these special films is that they can be processed in any photo lab you can find.Sorry, i didn't know that it is for color, and i think i misunderstood what is written in the website from reviews maybe that this chemicals [C-41] is used for color and B&W.
So with a developer, fixer and wash i can develop the B&W film? [Good that in this photog. club, a service boy is my friend who likes to help me in many things there, he was the first one i shoot him with a studio lighting and he helping me to place lights where i want for still life table shooting and so, i will use him to help me in developing and he is smart enough so he may develop my film in the future for me without i go to do it myself].
service boy lab assistant?
refer to (there was a url link here which no longer exists)
use tank
use with reel
the large loading ramps makes loading by feel easierno more getting because the film won't load after you realize the reel was backwards and would never load
guide to darkroom equipment ignore the sales pitch
the more paper you have in one place at one time, the greater the chance of it all being ruined at the same time
from a roll or big box of paper, put about 10 - 30 sheets in a smaller box
run an all analog darkroom, leave cell phones i-pods, etc outside
in my darkroom, there is a turntable and records, and an "all american 5" tube radio
can't beat a time-o-lite for enlarging
the gralab is good for long times, semi-automated process control
all is based on my own personal kit
accordian bottles for DEVELOPERS
the gallon size is good for d-76, each level is approx. 10 oz
use different sizes and types for different developers
the bottle is like a wet noodle after filling with friesh mixed d-76, and will not support itself -- so put in something that will let it stand
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is the other type, but does not stay collapsed
use matching bottles for two part dev. brew
to measure, a 10 oz. graduate works best
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mine are samigon 11 oz and 2 oz
I started off measuring with 1 qt. measuring cup
still use it to pour in combined d-76 and water into dev. tank
another useful measuring glass is the 5 oz. version
it is now used to hold the thermomer while not in use
thermometer is essential
taylor 6092 has range of 0 to 220
accurate enough, water proof, easy to read
a funnel makes for pouring chemicals into bottles easier, less spillage
the "radiator funnel" fits into bottle opening perfectly, don't have to hold funnel while pouring, and has large opening to allow fast pouring
clear jugs are good to see how much USED DEVELOPER you have
mine was an empty washer fluid jug
you will also want a large supply of tempered water
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I use approx. 1 gallon to process 2 rolls of film in the tank each time
the spigot makes for easy filling for rinse water
I acquired 2 round 20l 5 gallon containers from a campus darkroom that closed down, asset recovery -- surplus sales
for a tempered water bath, refer to (there was a url link here which no longer exists)
I keep finding more uses for mine
out of image allotment, stay tuned for part 3
Tareq,
To start off developing your own film you really only need the following:The rest is very nice to have, but not necessary. As long as you have a dark area (no light at all) where you can load your film, you can process just about anywhere - I've done it in a hotel bathroom more than once, blocking the light at the bottom of the door with rolled up towels!
- Developing tank
- Reels
- Developer
- Stop Bath
- Fixer
- Washaid eg: Photoflo
- Thermometer
- Measuring jug to mix chemicals
- 3x smaller jugs to measure out the required amount for each process (dev, stop, fix)
- Bulldog clips to hang the film
- Timer
Follow the film manufacturer's instructions for times and recommended film developer - this is a good starting point. You can experiment later, once you have the basics sorted.
Ensure you have a routine - that way you won't accidentally put the fixer in before the developer and completely ruin your film!
I usually measure each process out, but keep the dev and tank to one side with the stop bath and fixer on the other. It helps to label each jug too - that way you will know which liquid is in which jug (as long as you have poured them into the correct jugs to start with.)
Final wash takes place in the sink and I add some PhotoFlo at the end for about 30secs to aid in drying and reduce the chance of streaks and water droplet spots.
Don't rush - take your time measuring and pouring. Time and temp are important too - the higher the temp, the shorter the development time. Again start with the film manufacturers' recommendations first - save the experimenting until later.
This chart shows changes in development times vs. temperature
http://www.freestylephoto.biz/tl_devtimebtemp.php
Above all - have fun! That's what it is all about.
I prefer Edwal 'LFN' wetting agent to Kodak. Better product, lasts longer(because you use less), and can also be used with developer, to eliminate trapped air bubbles. Kodak D-76 developer has been around for decades, and Kodak or Ilford fixer. It doesn't hurt to have an indicator stop bath, any brand will work. You may also want to purchase "hypo eliminator" which helps shorten wash times for film and fiber base prints, but not necessary for resin coated paper.
Here's the link again - truncated when I pasted it earlier; apologies to all.
(there was a url link here which no longer exists)
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