B&W film choices

[DaveO]

I use film once in a while and would like to try b&w for a change in 35mm. I have a Nikon FM2n, a Nikon F6 and a Rolleiflex 3.5F to work with. I usually shoot around ASA 100 films. Anyone have recommendations for which film they are happiest with for everything. I used Plus X when I was a teenager, but I don't have the negatives to see how they look. Only films that are easy to get developed at a mail in lab. Nothing exotic. I mainly do landscape photos. Waterfalls are my favorite subject. Sweeping panorama are also done. I just don't get too close to the cliff though.

 

[andrew.roos]

My preference for B&W landscapes is Ilford Delta 100 for its high resolution, fine grain, and linear tonal scale. Like most B&W films it must be developed in a B&W developer, but most pro labs should offer this.

 

[TheTrailTog]

Lots of choices out there. If you want something about 100iso and used to shoot Plus X, I highly recommend Ilford FP4+. It's versatile, readily available everywhere (well everywhere that sells film), uber cheap if you bulk load it, and tons of info on the net about developing options.

 

[Paul Howell]

For the past couple years I have used Foma 200 in all formats, 35, 120, and 4X5 as my primary film with Tmax 400 for times when I need to shoot a faster film. Freestyle sells Foma as their house brand. I shoot Foma 200 at 125 and develop in Studional (Sp?) which I also get from Freestyle, Foma films seem to develops well with a number of developers, I have also used Extol, D 76 and Edwal 12. Pf 4 is also very good, while others like either Tmax or Delta 100.

 

[DaveO]

I didn't mention this, but I don't do developing. Need to send to a lab like North Coast Photo Services or "The Darkroom ", 120processing.com, etc.

 

[MartinCrabtree]

If you do that scanner thing Blue Moon has good prices on develop only.

 

[wy2l]

Seriously consider processing B&W film at home.
It's not that hard. With the web and APUG as resources, you can do it.
Benefits: Lower cost, quicker turn-around, and total control.
Since you have the choice of film and developer, the permutations are almost endless.

 

[DaveO]

I do use an Epson V 600 flat bed scanner. Thanks for the link to Blue Moon. I have heard of them before.

 

[Paul Howell]

I didn't mention this, but I don't do developing. Need to send to a lab like North Coast Photo Services or "The Darkroom ", 120processing.com, etc.

You can check with the lab to see what developer they use and if the processor has any recommendations.

 

[landscapepics]

If the thread runs long enough you will get recommendations for every film that is currently available and a few recommendations for films that are no longer made. None of those recommendations will be wrong, since almost every film will produce results that are at least acceptable.

To play safe, stick with the major manufacturers. In the ISO100 or nearby range, that gives you a choice of:

Kodak T-Max 100
Ilford Delta 100
Ilford FP4+
Fuji Acros

Every lab will be able to develop these films.
Pricing varies from country to country so see what you can get the best deal on.

 

[tony lockerbie]

Agree with landscapepics, they all work well, especially at 100 speed. Also second the develop your own recommendation, it is very easy and cheap to set up...no darkroom required, and you get the thrill of lifting your freshly processed film from the tank

 

[DaveO]

I was thinking of getting two or three rolls in different brands. The T max, Ilford FP4+ and maybe the Fuji Acros. Now to just decide whether I want to shoot 35mm or 120. I guess the 120 might be a better choice to judge it with.

 

[leicarfcam]

I don't do developing.

This is disgusting!!!

 

[mnemosyne]

I use film once in a while and would like to try b&w for a change in 35mm. I have a Nikon FM2n, a Nikon F6 and a Rolleiflex 3.5F to work with. I usually shoot around ASA 100 films. Anyone have recommendations for which film they are happiest with for everything. I used Plus X when I was a teenager, but I don't have the negatives to see how they look. Only films that are easy to get developed at a mail in lab. Nothing exotic. I mainly do landscape photos. Waterfalls are my favorite subject. Sweeping panorama are also done. I just don't get too close to the cliff though.

For a start, try Ilford XP2, a b&w film that is developed in standard C41 (color negatie) chemistry, so can be easily processed (and printed) by any commercial lab, yet you have the option to print it or have it printed in a traditional darkroom process later if you should ever wish so. It is available in 35mm and 120 formats, so you could use it with all your cameras. It is a fine grained film suitable for landscapes.

Traditional b&w film (non C41-type b&w film) mostly make sense when you do your own developing. You could always start this at a later point in time should you get more enthusiastic about film. Plus-X was discontinued some years ago.

 

[David Allen]

For a start, try Ilford XP2, a b&w film that is developed in standard C41 (color negatie) chemistry, so can be easily processed (and printed) by any commercial lab, yet you have the option to print it or have it printed in a traditional darkroom process later if you should ever wish so. It is available in 35mm and 120 formats, so you could use it with all your cameras. It is a fine grained film suitable for landscapes.

Traditional b&w film (non C41-type b&w film) mostly make sense when you do your own developing. You could always start this at a later point in time should you get more enthusiastic about film. Plus-X was discontinued some years ago.

+1

David.
www.dsallen.de

 

[Strider]

Recently came across this article on the state of film.

http://www.thephoblographer.com/201...state-film-photography-industry/#.VUmmfnBHarV

 

[TheToadMen]

I use Fomapan 100 and I like it. It's cheaper too.

I also develop it with Caffenol-C-M and got very good results.

(source: http://caffenol.blogspot.nl)

 

[film_man]

I get all my film developed and scanned by a pro lab so my experience may differ from those developing themselves. I find that all BW films are very nice depending what you want to shoot and what look you want, however for my self I have settled (in 135) to Delta 100 for fine grained or Delta 400 for a slightly grainier look. I also like results from Delta 400 pushed up to 3 stops and prefer it to Delta 3200.

One other film I sometimes shoot is FP4+, it is very nice for a more classic/romantic look.

HP5 is a great film too but given that I get it developed in a lab, not myself, I have not noticed any particular advantage or different look to Delta 400 apart from a slightly grainier image, so I switched to Delta 400. On the other hand I love love love HP5 on 120 and is pretty much the only bw film I shoot in 120.

The other film I like in 135 is XP2, which of course is a C41 film. I like it for a more modern and smooth look purely when shooting people otherwise I just find it boring for anything else.

 

[Xmas]

Kentmere 100 as well.

 

[sagai]

Film_man, you need the control that home development gives for b&w.
May be a bit if learning curve at the beginning, other than that a huge latitude and flexibility you can gain for b&w whilst processing by yourself.

 

[film_man]

Film_man, you need the control that home development gives for b&w.
May be a bit if learning curve at the beginning, other than that a huge latitude and flexibility you can gain for b&w whilst processing by yourself.

As much as I would love to do it for all those reasons you mention I simply do not have the time for it!

 

[Malinku]

As much as I would love to do it for all those reasons you mention I simply do not have the time for it!

I'd say if you have time to shoot film you have time to develop it as well. Most of the time it takes me 30 mins to develop 1-2 rolls including set and cleaning time. When I use ilford dd-x. But then again my apt is for the most part always 68 f. So I don't have to do much to get chemicals to the proper temp.

But if you shoot a lot of film then time adds up fast. I only shoot 1-2 rolls of b&w a month.

 

[film_man]

I'd say if you have time to shoot film you have time to develop it as well. Most of the time it takes me 30 mins to develop 1-2 rolls including set and cleaning time. When I use ilford dd-x. But then again my apt is for the most part always 68 f. So I don't have to do much to get chemicals to the proper temp.

But if you shoot a lot of film then time adds up fast. I only shoot 1-2 rolls of b&w a month.

When I'm walking out and about I take photos. If I didn't take the photos I'd still be walking out and about. When I'm developing film it means I am home and can't do anything else. Thing is when I am home I could be doing a lot of other things that are far more interesting, ie playing with my son. So having time for shooting film has nothing to do with having time to develop! Do you have small kids in the house?

The liberating thing about film for me right now is that unlike the film and digital I shot in the past all I have to do right now is the shooting. I shoot the film, send it to the lab, get the scans back 10 days later and that's it! The lab knows what I want and how I want things scanned so I shoot and go. By the way, so far this year I'm shooting on average 2 rolls/week so that adds up.

 

[TheToadMen]

The liberating thing about film for me right now is that unlike the film and digital I shot in the past all I have to do right now is the shooting. I shoot the film, send it to the lab, get the scans back 10 days later and that's it! The lab knows what I want and how I want things scanned so I shoot and go. By the way, so far this year I'm shooting on average 2 rolls/week so that adds up.

Same here. I always have a camera with me and try to shoot an image or two every day. But developing has to be planned around here. So it's a blessing to have a trustworthy lab, isn't it?

 

[Slixtiesix]

Another vote for developing your film at home. It is cheaper and you are in control of the process. It does not take much time! Spooling the film into the tank: 3 minutes, developing 10-15 min, stop and fix 2 min, rinse 5 min. That is less than half an hour. If you don´t want to develop at home, I can recommend XP2 as well.