Autochrome, Kodachrome and home made high speed films

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nickandre

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Just finished a frame of film in the modified K14 process. I used a much shorter dev time on the color devs, about 3:15 with the C41 dev and coupler solution. I have faint colors! Dmax is low because of the short time and or my skimping on couplers. But there are very faint colors! I will scan shortly.

I used the blue reexposure/yellow dev first. The black is a bit (very) reddish this time. I think this is because I let the final magenta developer go more to completion. I have successfully over corrected my mistake.

The question is what does this mean? If the red was the last developer, then I way overcorrected the first developers. I'll have to re-extend them to a happy medium.
 
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OP
OP
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Photo Engineer

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Low Dmax could be overdevelopment (fog) in the first developer, underdevelopment in the color developers or not enough coupler or low pH in the color developer. The pH of C41 is about 10, the pH of the Kodachrome developer for good coupling is above 11 IIRC.

In addition, doing the blue first is not recommended.

PE
 

nickandre

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I knew that the blue shouldn't be done first, but I wanted to identify my problem. It doesn't appear to be a first developer issue. It's all down to the re-exposure and development. I think taking your suggestion and seeing what development time gives me good color dmax on black and white film would serve me well. Do you have any idea of the foot candle seconds needed to re-expose the film?
 
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At this late date. :sad: It has been about 25 or nearly 30 years since I last saw the process run and worked with those guys. Sorry.

PE
 

nickandre

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School, AP Bio, the school's production of ragtime, and crew season happened.
 

PKM-25

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What happened... a flurry of activity... great strides forward... then sudden death? This is one of the best threads on APUG.

Sometimes we have to get out and make photographs...:wink:
 

Athiril

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Well I have plans to try and create a slow speed "Autochrome" in photographic stock, then in 16mm stock for a Super16 film project for final project in degree for film making.

That is by taking an existing b&w emulsion and dye the halides red, green and blue respectively, or hell - cyan, magenta, and yellow would do too.

Printer refill inks that I had laying around -seem- to do the job and they dont wash away in developer or fix, needs further testing to determine if is just staining the acetate/celluoid/base etc or if it does stain the halide, or if it will stain after developing (guess Id need to fog, develop part way, soak in one dye, wash, keep developing, then soak in another dye, wash and then finish developing then soak in third dye, then bleach it back to halide before using).

Which if fails, I'll be doing it with dye bleaches or toners using a similar method.

Plan B is to fall back onto applying B&W processing techniques to colour film through previous experimentation - http://www.photodan.com.au/xtol-e6.html
 
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No. I saw it done at George Eastman House in a class. I was a guest.

The matrix was printed out as a crosshatch of R/G/B squares that were placed in register with the negative above the emulsion. After processing to give a reversal image the transparency and maxtirx were projected in register. It reproduced the scene quite well.

PE
 

alanrockwood

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The matrix was printed out as a crosshatch of R/G/B squares that were placed in register with the negative above the emulsion. After processing to give a reversal image the transparency and maxtirx were projected in register. It reproduced the scene quite well.

PE

Sounds kind of like a Bayer sensor in a digital camera.
 

PKM-25

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I am in the process of building a 8x10 film holder that will run 6 rolls of 35mm at once to give me 8 x 10 Kodachromes, sprocket holes and all. I am hoping to create the cover of my book with it.

That is my experiment..:smile:
 
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