Aternative to Forte Polywarmtone Plus?

[Bruce Osgood]

I tried J&C's re-branded Forte Polywarmtone but was disappointed in the fact that much of the paper was fogged over. I went to B&H today and bought a large supply of Forte Polywarmtone + 8X10, 5x7 and 11X14 only to discover tonight the 8x10 has also fogged. I'm going to return the entire supply and replace it with... what?

I've been thru the whole Ilford arsenal of VC papers and am not satisfied. I've tried "New & Improved" (which it ain't) Seagull. I've been down the Kentmere trail and didn't like it. I tried Bergger and don't remember what I thought about it but I guess it wasn't the answer either.

What I'm looking for in a FB paper is a non gloss pearl/lustre/semi matt finish without brighteners or development enhancers. A white base as opposed to Ivory, Cream or whatever they call it.

Anybody have a suggestion?

Thanks,

 

[Robert Hall]

Bruce,

How did you determine that the film was fogged? Could it perhaps be your safe light? Not knowing if you have had experience with Forte, but it fogs quite easily under Thomas safe lights, and lights of that ilk.

Regards,

 

[Ray Heath]

don't be so precious

 

[Donald Miller]

Interesting JandC Polywarmtone that I use has not been fogged...do you maybe have something else going on like an unsafe safelight?

This paper is at least a stop slower than most other papers and if it fogs it has to be something pretty extreme..

Wonderful stuff in Amidol...

Kentmere Ketona has a flatter surface than Polywarmtone..even though it is glossy...it is nearer the surface of Azo...

 

[gchpaco]

I'm not aware of anything else with the combination of highlight and midtone separation that Polywarmtone has--strangely I've never had issues with mine, and it is pretty slow stuff.

 

[Bruce Osgood]

Bruce,

How did you determine that the film was fogged? Could it perhaps be your safe light? Not knowing if you have had experience with Forte, but it fogs quite easily under Thomas safe lights, and lights of that ilk.

Regards,

Bob,
The film was not fogged because the same neg produced different fog patterns with different attempts. No two fogging patterns are alike.

My safe light bulb burnt out a couple weeks ago and I'm working in the dark until I go across the street and buy a 15W bulb.

 

[Bruce Osgood]

Interesting JandC Polywarmtone that I use has not been fogged...do you maybe have something else going on like an unsafe safelight?

This paper is at least a stop slower than most other papers and if it fogs it has to be something pretty extreme..

Wonderful stuff in Amidol...

Kentmere Ketona has a flatter surface than Polywarmtone..even though it is glossy...it is nearer the surface of Azo...

Donald,
It was your gallery images that drove me to J&C Polywarmtone. I want this paper to work. I'm really dragging my feet in the direction of Amidol BUT. you have opened a door with developers. The developer I am currently using is Chris Patersons' E-72. I dumped the working solution I was using and re-mixed from my stock solution that was stored air tight. The overall image was dramatically improved with the fresh but the fog was still in evidence.
Today, before I try and return the Forte, I will try something simpler like D-72

 

[galyons]

Bruce,
You might give Ansco 130 a try. I have found it to be a good match with PWT. But, I am biased toward glycin based developers. I like the tone and seperation of glycin. I have found the results very similar to amidol based developers in achieving deep blacks on enlarging papers.

The Ansco can also be used straight for more contrast or greater than 1:1 dilutions for some lower contrast. You can omit the bromide in the initial formulation. This will give you similar contrast control to the amidol water bath techniques, but in my experience, not quite as dynamically flexible as amidol/water. I do, occassionally use amidol with enlarging papers. I like the results, I am just more familiar with the A130.

The 130 is probably a bit more costly, than many other soups, but the glycin gives it long life.

As everyone has stated, PWT is a great paper. I have never had a fogging problem. I also like Polygrade V, under various branding, for a more neutral tone with a very longish tonal scale.

Cheers,

Geary

 

[MMfoto]

I'd give it another shot. Otherwise Bergger VCCB is what you're looking for.

 

[naaldvoerder]

I never experienced fogging with Polywarmtone, both from Forte as with the rebranded version from Adox, which probably is the same stuff as J&C. It carries a deep red safylight advice. Maybe you have the wrong color safelight?

Jaap Jan

 

[Bruce Osgood]

APOLOGIES ALL AROUND

First, my PGWT + did not fog! My E-72 developer failed and I took it for paper fog. I was wrong and I'm sorry to those (of us) who love this paper.

I replaced the E-72 with Ansco 135, a warm tone developer and got good results, not as great as I expected, but good.

I replaced the Ansco 135 with Ansco/Agfa 130 ala Adams without hydroquione and got GREAT.

I want to thank all of you who steered me in this direction.

 

[noseoil]

Bruce, Donald's suggestion about the amidol is certainly a good one. I tried it last week after a visit with him and a look at some of his prints on J&C pwt and have to say it is a large improvement over the dektol I've been using. Finally getting good blacks, makes a huge difference in tonality. Only problem is that now my other prints don't look nearly as good as they did. Thanks, Donald! tim