It depends on the lens. Exceedingly high end lenses - think Hubble space telescope - work best wide open. No camera lenses available to mere mortals are made to such high standards that they will work best wide open..
You can see if your results match published tests. The lens was found to be about average at the center and better than that at the edges. Good lens if you print full frame.Luckily I do have a Zuiko 50mm 1.4 lens and can try this out in projection.
Can you help me reading the graph?You can see if your results match published tests. The lens was found to be about average at the center and better than that at the edges. Good lens if you print full frame.
View attachment 284349
actually,there is a sweet spot. theoretically, wide open has the highest resolving power bu, lens aberrations will reduce the resolving power.While stopping down, lens aberrations are educed but diffraction is introduced.diffraction lowers resolving power and increases further with stopping down. somewhere in the middle(at about f/8-11 for 35mm)there is an optimum compromise between aberration and diffraction. this 'sweet spot' depends on lens design and film format but f/8-11 is a good starting point.Remember that resolving power and sharpness are different and both overrated when it comes to good images. HCB said"sharpness is a bourgeoise concept" and he knew what he was talking about.While doing research on films with clear base, I stumbled across the description of Adox CMS 20 II PRO, which resolves up to 800l/mm and recommends this, quote: "If you want high resolution pictures you need to open your lens aperture to one stop below maximum opening. Otherwise the lens diffraction will lower your lens resolution down to half of what this film can capture. Best lenses are F1,4 high speed high quality lenses."
https://www.adox.de/Photo/films/cms20ii-en/
Luckily I do have a Zuiko 50mm 1.4 lens and can try this out in projection. While I'll hunt the film down I wanted to hear on this more from you, as I was under the impression that lenses are best the other way around - about two stops from being max closed.
I feel contradicted. Please uncontradict me.
The vertical bars represent the range of all the 35mm format lenses tested of that focal length (50mm). The black dot is the Zuiko. So as you see, the Zuiko is about average resolution in the center of the frame but better than most of the others near the corners.Can you help me reading the graph?
I think I've read that some lenses, perhaps Hasselblad, are just as good wide open as stopped down.
A good rule of thumb, and logically, would be the middle aperture setting.
This makes f4-f5.6 the sweet spot of most lenses
Best lenses are F1,4 high speed high quality lenses."
Most f1.4 lenses aren't even useable until f2!
That might be true and that's a lot to swallow right that article.Your aspirations seem a bit on the optimistic side:
https://web.archive.org/web/20040804113631/http://www.imx.nl/photosite/technical/highres.html
Thank you! Taken together with this - I figure that in reality I should focus on the inherent contrast in the scene and camera shake to saturate them "mere" 160l/mm films. Let alone 260+Enough of theory and fantasy. OP, read these:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/nesster/4424744296/sizes/o/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/nesster/4424744224/sizes/o/
Thanks!The vertical bars represent the range of all the 35mm format lenses tested of that focal length (50mm). The black dot is the Zuiko. So as you see, the Zuiko is about average resolution in the center of the frame but better than most of the others near the corners.
That's what I got from links above too, thanks!A good rule of thumb, and logically, would be the middle aperture setting.
This makes f4-f5.6 the sweet spot of most lenses
This pair of MTF curves for 90mm f/3.5 lens taken from Hasselblad brochureI think I've read that some lenses, perhaps Hasselblad, are just as good wide open as stopped down.
Can you help me reading the graph?
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