Depends on the camera, but here's how it works on a Sinar P/P2:
The purpose of asymmetric tilts is to make it easy to measure the tilt angle, but not necessarily on the standard where the tilt will be applied, and not necessarily in the final composition.
Say one of the targets doesn't fall on the dotted line. Use rise/fall/shift to put the dotted line on that object. Now tilt/swing the rear standard to get the other object in focus. It need not fall on a dotted line. You now can read the tilt/swing angle from the relevant scale, and if you want to apply the tilt on the front standard instead of the rear standard, you can set the complementary tilt on the front standard (so if the angle measured on the rear standard is +5 deg., set the front standard to -5 deg.), and return the rear standard to zero. This lets you use the front standard to adjust the focal plane, the rear standard to change the shape of objects in the image. If you apply additional rear tilt after setting the front tilt, you'll have to adjust the front tilt to compensate for the difference, and keep the focal plane in the same place.
When you've "transferred" the tilt/swing movement from the rear standard to the front standard in this way, you should be able to make one focus movement, ideally on the rear standard, to get everything back into focus, and you can use rise/fall/shift again to restore your composition.
The Linhof Master GTL lets you adjust the tilt and swing axes, so that instead of using the dotted lines, you just put the axis where you need it, without changing the composition.
I'm not sure how the Ebony asymmetric tilts work in this regard, but if you have a camera without scales like a Sinar, you can always measure the swing and tilt angles with a clinometer and a compass. I have a Sunnto Tandem clinometer-compass (find them second hand on eBay from guys who used them to install satellite dishes), but there are also apps for that now on an iPhone, and I presume other smartphones.