Arkay Dual Dri 150 Instructions PDF?

[NortheastPhotographic]

I am the new owner of a 2nd hand Dual Dri 150. It's very clean, but I already screwed up by drying 2 FB glossy prints emulsion side toward the drum...It's going to be a fun morning cleaning those off!

I'd like to replace or wash the canvas and properly use the drum for basic print drying, no gloss increases...just want to dry prints flat since I don't have a press and they're hard to find close by.

Can anyone share the PDF if they have it? All the available links online are dead at the moment.

 

[Rick A]

Let me guess, the faces of the prints are mottled and look like crap. Nobody makes glossing polish any more. You can try using a micro-crystalline wax to polish the plates, I used to do that a very long time ago but gave up on it. Here's what I used to do when I used print dryers, heat the dryer to medium, place the prints in face up and latch the canvas covers, turn OFF the dryer and walk away until next day. Remove prints and place them under heavy weights for a week or so. I get better results drying FB prints in a blotter roll.

 

[mshchem]

I am the new owner of a 2nd hand Dual Dri 150. It's very clean, but I already screwed up by drying 2 FB glossy prints emulsion side toward the drum...It's going to be a fun morning cleaning those off!

I'd like to replace or wash the canvas and properly use the drum for basic print drying, no gloss increases...just want to dry prints flat since I don't have a press and they're hard to find close by.

Can anyone share the PDF if they have it? All the available links online are dead at the moment.

I have A couple Pako units. One very important point USE HARDENER IN YOUR FIXER this will keep the prints from sticking to the belt when drying emulsion side towards the belt. This bit of information is in the myriad of Kodak publications, but you need to look for it. Using the chrome side for glossy prints requires a sacrifice of an unspotted calf and 6 Tyre shekels. Plus ferrotype polish, and Pakosol for the print. If you do all of the above glossy prints are not a problem. I use mine to make nice flat dry, emulsion towards the belt. I've used my Pako for 40 years, no staining etc. I go through the whole Hypo clearing agent, archival wash routine. I bought 3 new belts from Pako a couple years back, did an overhaul. It's not hard to wash the belts, just remember to dry them on the machine. I can't imagine a work flow without a dryer. I have a couple Ilford dryers for RC, 10 seconds to dry an 8x10, amazing gloss as well.

 

[mshchem]

PS last time I stuck a print glossy side, I placed sponges with hot water on the back of the print, takes time but it comes off easily. I microwave the sponges to get them hot, use tongs or an oven mitt or you will burn your hands.

 

[NortheastPhotographic]

Yeah, the prints were stuck to the dryer. I used a wet sponge and lots of patience but got them off in 20 minutes or so. No serious harm to the drum.

Two of my prints I air dried last night, so I put the speed on high and the temp near low and ran them through, nice and flat! So worse case I have a really easy to use print flattener.

Still, if there is an easier way to get the canvas off than taking out about 50k screws...

 

[mshchem]

Yeah, the prints were stuck to the dryer. I used a wet sponge and lots of patience but got them off in 20 minutes or so. No serious harm to the drum.

Two of my prints I air dried last night, so I put the speed on high and the temp near low and ran them through, nice and flat! So worse case I have a really easy to use print flattener.

Still, if there is an easier way to get the canvas off than taking out about 50k screws...

My Pako belt comes off fairly easy. I need a diagram to remember how to install because my short term memory is, well short. Arkay still makes this dryer. I bet KHB in Canada would be able to get you a copy of the manual for 15 bucks. Kevin Brown, great guy and a genius at repairing all things electric/electronic in photographic equipment.

 

[Sirius Glass]

NEVER put the emulsion on the drum; always on the apron [cloth].

 

[MattKing]

NEVER put the emulsion on the drum; always on the apron [cloth].

Unless you are so brave/foolish as to be using ferrotyping plates!

 

[mshchem]

Properly maintained drum dryers work great. You NEED to keep the drum cleaned and polished (waxed) ,you need Pakosol or Kodak Print Flattening solution. Prints fall off drum into a basket. I use separate ferrotype chromed sheets and very little (if any) heat of a flat bed dryer. If you let it dry naturally, with the canvas pulled down tight, you won't get the "cockle" defects.

I use the Pako fiber base dryer, emulsion towards the belt takes about 6-7 minutes to dry the first print.

I helped a young friend print today. My Ilford RC dryer, 10 seconds for a super gloss 8x10. That's pretty nice too. You need to dry the print to make final adjustments.

 

[Neal]

I think this is what you are looking for.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I think this is what you are looking for.

Would you post the complete document?