Applying what I've learned with Tri-X to TMax development

[jgcull]

Following the advice of many of you, I developed Tri-x in HC110 (dilution H) agitating 3 inversions every minute. I have several rolls of TMax 100 I'm going to develop in D76. I normally agitate every 30 seconds, 4 inversions.

I liked the results of the more dilute developer, longer dev. time with less agitation.

How does this technique apply to TMax film?

Thanks for anything you can offer.

 

[jim appleyard]

It still applies. In this case film is film and dev is dev. By diluting the dev, you will be getting a sharper neg and more of a compensating effect.

If I can add a piece of advice (I must, I must) try the T-Max in Rodinal. It gave me the best T-Max negs ever.

 

[jgcull]

If I could find Rodinal today, I'd try it, but there's no chance of that... unless one of you are a neighbor I've never met.

But with D76 I can do the same sort of thing, diluting it more and lengthening the dev. time? Have you ever tried that with TMax 100? Would the proportions be the same? If I make it, say, 1/3 more dilute - I'll make the time 1/3 longer?

And should I agitate the same as with the Tri-x/HC110 combination? A few every minute rather than every 30 seconds?

Thanks again!

Janet

 

[Bob Carnie]

Janet
I do not like tmax in D76 , I would recommend using tmax development.
I do like rodinal as the first poster recommends for tmax, but personally I like tmax in tmax dev, they work brilliantly together.
Time , temperature and agitation are critical, and I mean critical for tmax, nowhere as forgiving as Tri X

Bob

 

[TheFlyingCamera]

Janet- Rodinal is still available. Probably not at your local camera store, but it can be had mail order, from Freestyle

http://www.freestylephoto.biz/sc_search.php?rfnp=30&q=Rodinal&rfnc=301&

or B&H:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/con...lSearch=yes&O=RootPage.jsp&A=search&Q=*&bhs=t

 

[jim appleyard]

If I could find Rodinal today, I'd try it, but there's no chance of that... unless one of you are a neighbor I've never met.

But with D76 I can do the same sort of thing, diluting it more and lengthening the dev. time? Have you ever tried that with TMax 100? Would the proportions be the same? If I make it, say, 1/3 more dilute - I'll make the time 1/3 longer?

And should I agitate the same as with the Tri-x/HC110 combination? A few every minute rather than every 30 seconds?

Thanks again!

Janet,

Yes, Rodinal is available again, but as noted, perhaps not locally. Freestyle will ship via UPS, but I doubt B&H will ship via FedEX; hazmat laws.

Yes, you can dilute D-76 1+3 to give a sharper neg similar to Rodinal, although they will probably have a look from one another.
Yes, lengthen your times. Here's the Massive Dev. Chart link:http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.html

Generally, if your dev times are 5 min and under, you agitate every 30 seconds. If over 5 min., then you do every minute. I tend to go for longer times and give 3 inversions/min.

D-76 is a good all-round dev and will do a nice job for you.

 

[TheFlyingCamera]

Jim- the version B&H sells is in powder form, unmixed, so it should ship ok. Call B&H to be sure.

 

[John Bragg]

Hi, Janet. Hope you have good results with your T-Max. If you have any as yet unexposed rolls, why not run a test roll before commiting your precious and unrepeatable images. As you know, all film and developer combinations are very much in the eye of the beholder.. I love HC-110 but it is not everyones cup of tea. My advice is to try before you develop important stuff... The D76 / T-Max "look" could just suit you. Dilute 1:3 for ultimate sharpness....

Regards, John.

 

[rhphoto]

My experience with T-Max was that it was difficult to keep good shadow values without blowing out the high values. My default approach would be slightly overexpose and slightly underdevelop. You can always boost contrast in printing.

 

[jordanstarr]

i've used tmax with d-76 1:1 and i loved the results. i liked it better than the tmax developer. cut the film in half and try it in both? worst case scenario is you get your question answered and you lose one negative frame. try the next roll in rodinal and you'll have your answer and a combo you'll be pleased with.

if you're really keen on getting a good set of tests done with the developer/film combo try shooting a roll of 36 all of the exact same thing, cut and bag (or light-tight store) 5 different strips and carefully document and keep track of everything. it may take you half a day to do and cost you about $50, but it would probably be worth it if you plan on having negatives you'll love for the rest of your film shooting days. it sucks going back on some really good shots you had 2 years ago and say "damn, i wish i had of developed that film in a different developer".

 

[jgcull]

I got my first batch of negatives. I haven't decided if I like them better. I've always done TMax 1:1 in d76 and been happy, but I got carried away with the different way to do the Tri-X and tried to find a better way for this, too.

I printed a few frames last night. The one of my husband and I looks very gritty. Has an "old" quality to it. My grandbabies look smooth and fine. I haven't figured that out, yet.

 

[jgcull]

jordanstarr,

Yes, I've used it with d76 1:1 and now I know I prefer that, too.

>>>i wish i had of developed that film in a different developer<<<

Me too. I should have stuck with what I knew worked. It always worked well. I'll save HC110, dil. B, for Tri-X. (When I can get more, that is.)

Thank you all for your help.

Janet

 

[Tom Hoskinson]

My personal preference for developing T MAX 400 (TMY) is Pyrocat with semi-stand agitation. Gives great tonality and highlight control.

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

 

[jgcull]

Tom, What is "semi-stand agitation"?