Anyone Using AA-Size Li-Po Batteries

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ic-racer

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I like electronic film cameras as much as the mechanical ones. One issue with electronic cameras is the need for batteries. NiMh batteries, like the older technology NiCad, still lose charge over time.

The big issue with that is a camera that gets infrequent use will not be ready to go without a charge. By the time the batteries are charged (even 15 minutes quick charge), the opportunity may be long gone.

I have converted almost everything I own to Li-Po or Li-Fe battery. Except for cameras. I'm in the process of doing that. The main benefit is the batteries stay charged. So, when I grab a camera or flash, it is ready to go.

BTW, I'm no fan of Alkaline cells. They leak and destroy equipment.

n75Batteries2.jpg
 
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These are the batteries in question. They have built-iin voltage regulators. The cameras in which I'm planning on using them are AA holders on Nikon auto-focus cameras and flash.

AA-Size-USB-Recharge-Lipo-Battery.jpg_350x350.jpg
 
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NiMh battery voltage over time what we all know so well :sad:
graph.gif
 

mweintraub

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I like electronic film cameras as much as the mechanical ones. One issue with electronic cameras is the need for batteries. NiMh batteries, like the older technology NiCad, still lose charge over time.

The big issue with that is a camera that gets infrequent use will not be ready to go without a charge. By the time the batteries are charged (even 15 minutes quick charge), the opportunity may be long gone.

I have converted almost everything I own to Li-Po or Li-Fe battery. Except for cameras. I'm in the process of doing that. The main benefit is the batteries stay charged. So, when I grab a camera or flash, it is ready to go.

BTW, I'm no fan of Alkaline cells. They leak and destroy equipment.

View attachment 191330

Look at Eenloop. They are known to hold their charge much longer than all other NiMh. Becareful in some electronics that require a full 1.5v. I had problems with the F5 and these 1.2v rechargables.
 
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Will check out the Eneloop. Have you actually used them?
 
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After looking at the Eneloop info on-line, I'm wondering how I missed that technology. Probably because I'm so into Li-po and Li-fe technology, I overlooked it. I'm going to get some Enelop PRO batteries to try in my F100 and SB-28 flash and Rollieflex 3003.

EneloopPRO_battery_AA.jpg
 
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I remove batteries from equipment when storing these days. And have been using lithium (li-ion?) in anything that I can. They're the best bet out there at this point. Not being rechargeable is the major drawback however I can live with that for the performance. They don't appear to work well in flashes though. I use traditional alkaline there. Tried rechargeable and performance was sub par is heavy use.
 

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I have been using Li po for about 4 years .When they do fail they are quite spectacular just hope its during charging and not in the camera if they do fail
 

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Eneloop is all I use nowadays. I find that they work very well. No more non-chargeable AAs or AAAs for me. My cameras (Canon & Mamiya) have dedicated Li-ion batteries.
 

bernard_L

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I have converted almost everything I own to Li-Po or Li-Fe battery.
I tried AA-size "Lithium" battteries (Li-Fe, I believe). Problem is their output voltage rises to approx 1.7V and some cameras dislike this to the point of refusing to start; for example the Canon Powershot A series, notorious for their voracity. Finally my wife's Powershot A720IS works nice with Eneloops (originally Sanyo, now Panasonic).
 
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After some on-line research, it appears the Panasonic Eneloop batteries are not available in physical stores in the US. On-line ordering only. So, no way to check them out today...

However, competitor NiMh Hybrid Low Discharge are available in USA stores. The Rayovac Hybrid Pre-Charged are in a store near me.

I need about 30 AA batteries. I don't have that many, I swap between cameras and devices. At this time I'd say I only have about 8 good conventional NiMh batteries, thus the reason for this thread. I'm in the market to get a bunch of new batteries.

I'll pickup some Rayovacs today and report back.

2e1be03ae7a00c564ee6e110.L.jpg
 

Cholentpot

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Amazon Basic rechargeable are said to be Enloops. At the very least they are made in Japan.
 

TheRook

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BTW, I'm no fan of Alkaline cells. They leak and destroy equipment.
Only if you fail to remove them from the equipment when not it use. By the time a battery leaks, it has lost its charge quite a while ago. With a battery tester, you can monitor the charge status.
It's really just a matter of getting organized and following a smart routine, and you will never have to deal with leaking batteries destroying your camera, flash unit, etc.
 
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Only if you fail to remove them from the equipment when not it use. By the time a battery leaks, it has lost its charge quite a while ago. With a battery tester, you can monitor the charge status.
It's really just a matter of getting organized and following a smart routine, and you will never have to deal with leaking batteries destroying your camera, flash unit, etc.
When is a camera 'not in use?' When it is loaded with film and on the 'ready and waiting' shelf or in a camera bag ready to go. Since you never know when the alkaline cells will let lose their innards, the only safe place for them is outside of the equipment. In that case they are useless.
 
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I don't know if it is the case any longer, but Duracell used to offer replacement if one of their batteries leaked in your equipment. About 7 or so years ago I got them to replace a Sekonic meter to the tune of over $500 when a battery leaked in it. The guarantee was buried on their website somewhere.

If you go with NiMH make sure you get a good charger. I recently picked up an Opus charger and it made a world of difference since it actually displays the condition of the batteries and charges each battery separately. I have a bunch of 10 year old Delkin 2900mAh batteries and was able to sort them and get most of them reconditioned. Totally worth the not-so-much money for the charger.

Alkaline is still better for some things. I prefer to use alkaline in older flashes for example.
 
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Loaded equipment with some Duracell pre-charged. Based on the image I posted in #11 above, they are made in China. They indicated a 90 to 100% charge in the equipment when installed from the package. Package inkjet code reads: 7016868102, no way that I know to decipher the manufacture date from that.
 

mgb74

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I have a couple of LiPo batteries that I use in inexpensive flashlights. I would not trust them in electronics. The one's you showed are clever in terms of charging, but I still would not trust in expensive equipment.

I used them and found them to be overrated.
If you read the flashlight forums (they're as obsessed with flashlights and batteries as we are with cameras) the Eneloops are considered one of the best brands for NiMH. Panasonic and Fujitsu are also highly thought of. BUT - they also talk about a lot of counterfeiting, with cheap batteries imitating good name brands.

I don't know if it is the case any longer, but Duracell used to offer replacement if one of their batteries leaked in your equipment. (snip)
http://www.energizer.com/about-batteries/battery-leakage
https://www.duracell.com/en-us/technology/battery-care-use-and-disposal/ (very bottom of page)

When is a camera 'not in use?' When it is loaded with film and on the 'ready and waiting' shelf or in a camera bag ready to go. Since you never know when the alkaline cells will let lose their innards, the only safe place for them is outside of the equipment. In that case they are useless.
The only effective solution that I know of is to rotate your batteries. For example, after 2-6 months (depending on usage) replace them. The ones you take out can be relegated to cheap flashlight use. Or use lithium AAs.

Has anyone ever had a leaking battery in a smoke detector? I haven't. I believe it's because smoke detectors start their "low battery" beeping way before the battery is used up.
 

GRHazelton

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Only if you fail to remove them from the equipment when not it use. By the time a battery leaks, it has lost its charge quite a while ago. With a battery tester, you can monitor the charge status.
It's really just a matter of getting organized and following a smart routine, and you will never have to deal with leaking batteries destroying your camera, flash unit, etc.

Some of us who go back before alkaline cells will remember the carbon/zinc cells. When they leaked the "ooze" was acidic and very corrosive. With luck a mildly acidic "wash", such as white vinegar, will remove the crud from alkaline cells leakage.
 
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Eneloop batteries are the gold standard in rechargeables at the moment. But the base 2500 mAh batteries are for general purpose use like torches. For cameras, drives and flashes — all intensive, high-drain uses, you should look for the 4,500 mAh models. The downside is that with all Eneloops, they are heavy and the higher the rating, the longer the recharge, and a charger must be matched to the battery — Eneloop makes its own charger, though its pricey. These batteries are used in my GPS and I can squeeze out 3 weeks of use out of that on one pair of Eneloops. I do not use them in cameras or flashes because I do not use flashes and the camera (EOS 1N with PDBE1) is heavy enough without putting in the even heavier Eneloops (x8)!
 

Chan Tran

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Unless the rechargeable would make my camera goes faster I don't want to use them in cameras.
 
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