Anyone Try Eco-Pro chemicals?

[nosmok]

FWIW another up-vote for Eco-Pro Neutral Fixer. Lasts a long time, gives my films (I don't have a darkroom so no printing) plenty of snap, even though I mostly shoot old and expired.

 

[Radost]

Eco cleans great and does not smell. Lasts a long time.
Cleans a TMAX3200 clip in 40 seconds.
People say natural fixers strangle with tubular grain but I have not noticed. I do a clip test before each sessions and double for regular grain and quadruple for T grain. Just to be sure.

 

[TomR55]

I use their Stop, Fixer, and Hypo wash aid. These all work as advertised and are, presumably, less harmful to the environment. I do not use lots of T-Grain films so I have no opinion as to fixer impacts.

 

[Radost]

I use their Stop, Fixer, and Hypo wash aid. These all work as advertised and are, presumably, less harmful to the environment. I do not use lots of T-Grain films so I have no opinion as to fixer impacts.

I was told I can skip the hypo wash. What is the advantage of using it?
It seams I have to wash a lot more than other fixers. Eco fixers remove a lot of the colors from the film.

 

[TomR55]

As a purely technical matter hypo wash is more useful for washing fiber-based papers than films. (I think that the Technical Data Sheet provided by Eco-Pro might say something every similar ....)

I use hypo wash when processing TMax films because I find that it clears the anti-halation dye (that pinkish cast) from the film base more efficiently than the shorter wash cycles that most are using in these times of enhanced environmental awareness--but this is anecdotal as I've done no actual testing to confirm this.

 

[Radost]

As a purely technical matter hypo wash is more useful for washing fiber-based papers than films. (I think that the Technical Data Sheet provided by Eco-Pro might say something every similar ....)

I use hypo wash when processing TMax films because I find that it clears the anti-halation dye (that pinkish cast) from the film base more efficiently than the shorter wash cycles that most are using in these times of enhanced environmental awareness--but this is anecdotal as I've done no actual testing to confirm this.

The eco natural fixer clears a lot of the dye and it needs a lot of washing. True.
You think hypo can help with tax films washing?

 

[MattKing]

The eco natural fixer clears a lot of the dye and it needs a lot of washing. True.
You think hypo can help with tax films washing?

Hypo Clearing Agent - not "hypo", because that is an obsolete nick-name for fixer - assists with washing both paper and film. It speeds the process and reduces the amount of water needed.
As an example, Kodak's recommendation for films was that one should wash 5 minutes after using Hypo Clearing Agent OR 20 to 30 minutes without using Hypo Clearing Agent.

 

[Radost]

Can you reuse the 1:19 solution or is it a single use?

 

[TomR55]

I would not recommend reusing diluted solutions; perhaps others have a different view.

If cost is an issue, you can easily find formulas online for various "hypo clearing agents" that require sodium sulfite (anhydrous), and one or two other salts (all of which are available from Photographers Formulary, Freestyle or B&H Photo) that make large quantities that can be diluted and discarded.

 

[MattKing]

Can you reuse the 1:19 solution or is it a single use?

Which 1:19 solution?
If it is fixer, the answer should be yes.

 

[Radost]

Which 1:19 solution?
If it is fixer, the answer should be yes.

The Eco Hypo wash ...

 

[MattKing]

I use Kodak HCA one shot.

 

[Radost]

It's way too expansive. it will only clear 12 135 films for $10.
correction...
it clears 48 films

 

[MattKing]

In my case, I actually use a teaspoon of the HCA powder in a litre of water each time I develop film. That litre can be re-used several times within a few hours, but it does not last longer.
I would expect that the Eco Hypo wash would have similar longevity.
This is the only powder photo-chemical that I would consider using that way, because it is mostly sodium sulfite, and it won't really suffer if the relative proportions of the other components vary a bit from session to session.
Some people just use bulk sodium sulfite the way I use the HCA. That is easy and cheap, but it is a bit dependent on pH.
By the way, I can virtually guarantee that the Eco Pro stuff has the same very tiny environmental effect as the Kodak stuff.

 

[Radost]

In my case, I actually use a teaspoon of the HCA powder in a litre of water each time I develop film. That litre can be re-used several times within a few hours, but it does not last longer.
I would expect that the Eco Hypo wash would have similar longevity.
This is the only powder photo-chemical that I would consider using that way, because it is mostly sodium sulfite, and it won't really suffer if the relative proportions of the other components vary a bit from session to session.
Some people just use bulk sodium sulfite the way I use the HCA. That is easy and cheap, but it is a bit dependent on pH.
By the way, I can virtually guarantee that the Eco Pro stuff has the same very tiny environmental effect as the Kodak stuff.

So if I stuck bunch of developing in the same night I can reuse that liter? How many films you think it will be good for?

 

[MattKing]

So here is a combined datasheet for the Eco-Pro chemicals.
https://www.digitaltruth.com/products/ecopro_fixandwash.php
They are recommending re-use for a longer period of time than I would think prudent.
They give capacity figures for prints (50 8x10/litre) for the Eco Hypo Wash, but no capacity information for films. FWIW, the capacity recommendations for the Kodak HCA are about 35 films for litre of working solution.

 

[Radost]

Hypo Clearing Agent - not "hypo", because that is an obsolete nick-name for fixer - assists with washing both paper and film. It speeds the process and reduces the amount of water needed.
As an example, Kodak's recommendation for films was that one should wash 5 minutes after using Hypo Clearing Agent OR 20 to 30 minutes without using Hypo Clearing Agent.

What is the difference between Hypo wash and hypo clearing agent?

 

[Sirius Glass]

What is the difference between Hypo wash and hypo clearing agent?

The label. They do the same thing.

 

[Kino]

What is the difference between Hypo wash and hypo clearing agent?

Hypo wash/ Hypo clearing agent, as Sirius Glass says, are the same. Hypo Eliminator is different, but I don't think you can even buy that anymore.

 

[Radost]

The label. They do the same thing.

Oh I see one is Eco and one is a copy of the Kodak product.

 

[MattKing]

Oh I see one is Eco and one is a copy of the Kodak product.

No, Hypo Clearing Agent is the Kodak product.
This is old packaging:

 

[Radost]

No, Hypo Clearing Agent is the Kodak product.
This is old packaging:
View attachment 327304

 

[MattKing]

The use of exactly the same name - including the use of "Hypo" and the same capitalization - by Legacy Pro is probably a trademark infringement, but I think the chances of Sino Promise suing to enforce the mark are pretty small

 

[redbandit]

the hypo wash doesnt last long at all. It has no storage life. Use it up, throw it out.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

the hypo wash doesnt last long at all. It has no storage life. Use it up, throw it out.

Have you ever used Fujifilm's Quickwash? I have been using this product for over 30 years. It has excellent keeping qualities. It's a blue colour when mixed up. As it's used, it gradually loses its colour. That is an indication that it is no longer effective...like an indictor stop-bath. It's shelf life is excellent, by the way. Sadly, it's not available in Canada or your country. Happily, I'll be in Japan this summer to stock up (dry chemical packet...super cheap!)