Anyone tried JandC Classic Ortho in 35mm?

[Michel Hardy-Vallée]

I'd like to try an ortho film eventually, but I can't invest in 100ft roll of JandC ortho, and don't have easy access to a 4x5. Has anyone ever used it?

I've tried Efke R25/50, which is so far the closest I've been to ortho films. If someone has it in 35mm cartridge, I'd be willing to pay film+shipping on a few ones.

 

[Jeremy]

Try giving John at J&C a call. He might be willing to spool up a couple of rolls for you.

 

[jandc]

I'd like to try an ortho film eventually, but I can't invest in 100ft roll of JandC ortho, and don't have easy access to a 4x5. Has anyone ever used it?

I've tried Efke R25/50, which is so far the closest I've been to ortho films. If someone has it in 35mm cartridge, I'd be willing to pay film+shipping on a few ones.

The rolls are not 100 feet long. They are 10 meters (6 rolls worth) or just shy of 33 feet. We had them cut to this length for the very reason stated above. We assumed that most people are not going to use a 100 foot roll of ortho film in a reasonable time.

The film is identical to Maco Ort 25. For the cost of about 2 36 exp rolls of this film you get the equivalent of 6 rolls.

 

[Michel Hardy-Vallée]

The rolls are not 100 feet long. They are 10 meters (6 rolls worth) or just shy of 33 feet. We had them cut to this length for the very reason stated above. We assumed that most people are not going to use a 100 foot roll of ortho film in a reasonable time.

The film is identical to Maco Ort 25. For the cost of about 2 36 exp rolls of this film you get the equivalent of 6 rolls.

Oops! My imperial/metric systems superpowers are indeed weak. Thing is, my bulk loader is already full with a fresh reel of Tri-X, but I'd be willing to pay a tad more to have it spooled on cheap cartridges.

 

[titrisol]

Ortho film is not sensitive to red, so using an anti-red filter on your camera should do the trick??
anti-red = cyan

I'd like to try an ortho film eventually, but I can't invest in 100ft roll of JandC ortho, and don't have easy access to a 4x5. Has anyone ever used it?

I've tried Efke R25/50, which is so far the closest I've been to ortho films. If someone has it in 35mm cartridge, I'd be willing to pay film+shipping on a few ones.

 

[Donald Qualls]

For that matter, since the film is red-blind, if you have a red darkroom safelight you can hand spool the film under safelight. No need to disturb the Tri-X resting in the bulk loader...

 

[Michel Hardy-Vallée]

For that matter, since the film is red-blind, if you have a red darkroom safelight you can hand spool the film under safelight. No need to disturb the Tri-X resting in the bulk loader...

Quite right, indeed. I don't have my own darkroom but I use one at a local arts center. I would just have to cut some 5' lengths of film and spool them by hand so I get an approximate 36exp. Thank you!

 

[fschifano]

Be careful there. I'd venture a guess and say that the safelights in your public darkroom may not be red, but rather the equivalent of the Kodak "OC" safelights. These are safe for papers but may not be for ortho films. I occassionally use some Ilford Ortho Plus and the specs recommend a dark red safelight and against anything else. My safelights are set up with the Kodak 1A filters which are much brighter than the dark red and they will fog the Ilford Ortho Plus. Better test a small piece before you open the whole thing should you choose to use it. Anyway, it's not to hard to do this in the dark. If you can load a SS reel in the dark, you should have no problem reloading a 35mm cassette. A little practice with a scrap roll and a length reference is all you need to get the job done.

 

[titrisol]

If I was you I'd load 20 exposures/roll.
I've found it's easier to work and gives you a tad more flexibility due to smaller length.

 

[Michel Hardy-Vallée]

Be careful there. I'd venture a guess and say that the safelights in your public darkroom may not be red, but rather the equivalent of the Kodak "OC" safelights. These are safe for papers but may not be for ortho films. I occassionally use some Ilford Ortho Plus and the specs recommend a dark red safelight and against anything else. My safelights are set up with the Kodak 1A filters which are much brighter than the dark red and they will fog the Ilford Ortho Plus. Better test a small piece before you open the whole thing should you choose to use it. Anyway, it's not to hard to do this in the dark. If you can load a SS reel in the dark, you should have no problem reloading a 35mm cassette. A little practice with a scrap roll and a length reference is all you need to get the job done.

Their safelights are red, but maybe using my reliable closet would be even safer. I could just cut the roll in suitable length, then tape the end of a strip to a spool, put in the cassette, and then throw the cassette in my 35mm body to rewind the film into the cassette.

 

[Michel Hardy-Vallée]

Well, quite a few weeks later, I have got my hands on some extra bulk loaders, so my Tri-X is sleeping quietly in its nest, and I have a nice roll of ORT 25 sitting in another one, so I'm ready to try it out!

I'm not sure yet what kind of developer I could rely on for pictorial applications. I'm not intending to use to film for copy work (yet), so I'd use a rather normal contrast. Would paper developers (I have Agfa multicontrast) be a good choice? Or would good ol' Rodinal be enough?

 

[jim appleyard]

If my memory goes far enough back to high school, we used to dev this in the Kodak "A" and "B" devs. I'm not sure I'm right here and I'm not sure that Kodak even makes this stuff, but we used to get a pure black & white image out of the stuff.

Perhaps a recipe is given in the "Darkroom Cookbook: for a dev.

 

[jandc]

Well, quite a few weeks later, I have got my hands on some extra bulk loaders, so my Tri-X is sleeping quietly in its nest, and I have a nice roll of ORT 25 sitting in another one, so I'm ready to try it out!

I'm not sure yet what kind of developer I could rely on for pictorial applications. I'm not intending to use to film for copy work (yet), so I'd use a rather normal contrast. Would paper developers (I have Agfa multicontrast) be a good choice? Or would good ol' Rodinal be enough?

D-76 - 7 min
Rodinal 1:100 11-12 min

 

[Michel Hardy-Vallée]

D-76 - 7 min
Rodinal 1:100 11-12 min

Thanks again JandC for an excellent product!

I posted an image in the technical gallery : (there was a url link here which no longer exists) for those interested. Dev'd in Rodinal.