Any Pakosol Users?

[jamusu]

I finally placed an order for Pakosol yesterday so that I can ferrotype my fiber prints. This morning I received a call from a company representative at Pakor stating that they no longer make it. To make matters worse, she told me that they sold the last gallon just hours before I placed my order.

Would anyone happen to know any substitutes for Pakosol? I read that photo-flo and glycerin can be used. Better yet would anyone happen to have some that they would like to rid themselves of?


Thank you,
Jamusu.

 

[PHOTOTONE]

Pakosol is an "aid" to getting good gloss, but not a mandatory chemical. You can ferrotype without it.

 

[jamusu]

Pakosol is an "aid" to getting good gloss, but not a mandatory chemical. You can ferrotype without it.

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How?

Would I have to purchase a ferrotype plate? I have a premier print dryer that I wanted to use the Pakosol with.

Also, would the print be archival were I to use pakosol?

Jamusu.

 

[Nicholas Lindan]

Pakosol is apparently Hexelene Glycol with possibly a pinch of TritonX (or PhotoFlo), diluted with water.

There are formulas for print glossing agents in most old compendiums of photographic formulae. An ounce of glycerin dissolved in a gallon of water sticks in my head.

If you have an old Premier dryer then the chances are the ferrotype surface is too scratched to work well - they have to be really pristine or the prints will look awful, a lot of fine scratches will also cause the print to stick. You can still buy ferrotype plates at B&H.

 

[PHOTOTONE]

____________________________________________________________________

How?

Would I have to purchase a ferrotype plate? I have a premier print dryer that I wanted to use the Pakosol with.

Also, would the print be archival were I to use pakosol?

Jamusu.

Getting a high-gloss finish to the surface of "F" surface fibre paper is a product of the surface you squeegie the print to. Most "glossy" print dryers have a mirror-finish surface that you squeegie the print to, and the print-surface takes on the glossy finish of the dryer surface. Pakosol just helps to provide the glossy finish by conditioning the surface of the wet print. You still have to have a ferrotype plate (for air drying) or a mirror-finish on your electric dryer surface.

 

[jamusu]

My air dryer has a mirror finish on both sides. The only problem is I can no longer keep the canvas closed when drying prints. I bought it from e-bay over a year ago for $15, but the canvas was stained, so I washed it and it shrank.

When I tested it, the prints were glossy and flat, but not as glossy as I heard they would be had I used Pakosol.

I did some research and here are other options that I have:

1.) Rexton Print Flattening Agent

2.) Edwal Super Flat Print Conditioner

Are these pretty much the same as Pakosol?

James.

 

[MarkS]

Print flatteners are chemicals meant to take the curl out of FB prints, not make the surface glossy. The word is that they are 'anti-archival', so if you want your prints to last a long time, don't use them.

 

[jamusu]

That was my next question.

Their is a debate whether or not it is archival or not. For those who used it 20 years or more ago and still have the prints; how are the prints holding up?

Jamusu.

 

[mikebarger]

did you try to rewash your canvas and stretch it ? I always put my back on wet and let it dry in the closed position.

 

[sun of sand]

If archival is your thing go ahead and use the stuff
selenium toner at 1:10000 isn't likely archiving anything, either

 

[Nicholas Lindan]

For those who used it 20 years or more ago and still have the prints; how are the prints holding up?

I first used it close on 50 years ago - holding up well.

 

[PHOTOTONE]

I have prints I have made almost 50 years ago and dried on print dryer with apron, and used Pakosol to aid gloss, and they have no image deterioration.

 

[Philippe-Georges]

My air dryer has a mirror finish on both sides. The only problem is I can no longer keep the canvas closed when drying prints. I bought it from e-bay over a year ago for $15, but the canvas was stained, so I washed it and it shrank.
James.

Always mount the canvas wet after washing, and let it dry at room temperature. But to prevent the staining of the glazing mirrors (if you cannot remove them), put a teacloth — plastic sheet layer between the mirror and the canvas (do not use a thick towel!) and close the frame, not with the spring mounted hooks, but wit a not to tightly bounded piece of rope or wire.
I learned it the (very) hard way...

Philippe

 

[jamusu]

did you try to rewash your canvas and stretch it ? I always put my back on wet and let it dry in the closed position.

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Nope.

The bad thing is that before washing it, I read on here that those were the steps that I should have taken but did not follow them. Can I re-wash them to see if they will re-stretch, or am I at a loss?

Since Pakosol is no longer available, would Rexton Print Flattening Agent, or Edwal Super Flat Print Conditioner be adequate substitutes? Has anyone used them?

I also read that the Darkroom Cookbook recommends using glycerine and water to aid in the Ferrotyping process. Has anyone tried it?

Thank you,
Jamusu.

 

[MarkS]

See my post above. Print flatteners are NOT replacements for Pakosol, and will adversely affect the life of your prints. It's been 25+ years since I used a drum-type dryer so I can't help you otherwise.