He he ..he. Wy2l! The Pentax67 is predestined like the one and only system for "hendheld" in larger midt format.
Try this with a Fuji GX 680....!
But if you want real sharp pictures (P67 has "just" 1/1000sec.) you should use a tripot (above 75mm).
I made my personal experience with the 300mm in addition of Pentax excellent 2xconverter.
600mm midt format is just a nice think. But with the addition of a heavy tripot it eould have Bern nicer! [ 600mm handheld].....and the Speer was a bit restricted from the light !
So I was " the last man standing with handheld 600mm 6x7 system at 1/250sec. - 1/350sec"
(1/500 sec was underexposure).!
with regards
PS : I wasn't. a bad idea to try out - it costs. me just 2 films....
My experience with the particular sample I have of this lens is that the yellowing can be reverted partially, but never completely. It is very clear when I change between this lens and any other that it has some yellow tint even after several days under an UV light. When printing or scaning color film it is also evident.
I cleared a couple of 105mm lenses with a cheap IKEA LED lamp that gives off a bit of UV. They were quite yellow when I bought them, but I couldn't see any evidence of it when I'd finished. Colour photos looked fine. However, it took something like seven weeks of constant illumination to sort them out.
Paul - nothing else than P67II with original Pentax 2x extender and 300mm lens = 600mmWtf is this midt format you keep mentioning?
14 kg is nothing in comparison for ground training with Delta Force. There 70kg should be the task to handle. Not to forget the dificulties of the terrain....!Do tell. My 67 kit is all of 14kg and I am no Spring chicken...
I cannot dispute other people's experience but my Pentax 67 (v. 1) system has been flawless. The body was purchased new in 1984, the lenses are a combination of new and used. The 105mm lens is wonderful and uique. The 55mm is amazing - had a Hassie system with the 50mm when I bought the Pentax, sold the Hassie esp due to the superior nature of the 55mm. Perhaps I missed it earlier comments but the 135mm MACRO is a superb lens. The body and some lenses have tens of thousands of miles of travel on them and nothing has ever failed. My sole complaint with the system is the slow sync speed.
Russ
I owned a 503Cxi and 80mm Planar lens, and did enjoy (and still do), the square format (easily achievable out of a 6x7 image). Along came the SMC Pentax 67 75mm f2.8AL and... really, the 80mm Hassie could not stand up to it
Mind you, the P6x7 must then take a back seat with a re-set of the FP sync to ... 1/8s!
I’m not a flash shooter, so this is more idle curiosity than anything else, but, I assume the 1/8 is just to get the FP curtain out of the way before triggering the leaf shutter. I imagine that the leaf shutter gets triggered after the the leading curtain is fully open? Does that create a noticeable delay when shooting with a leaf shutter lens? Or is that delay too short to notice?
I’m not a flash shooter, so this is more idle curiosity than anything else, but, I assume the 1/8 is just to get the FP curtain out of the way before triggering the leaf shutter. I imagine that the leaf shutter gets triggered after the the leading curtain is fully open? Does that create a noticeable delay when shooting with a leaf shutter lens? Or is that delay too short to notice?
The camera doesn't know which speed has been set on the L/S so the metered prism assumes you're using 1/8th - you have to meter beforehand with the shutter speed set on the FP or use a handheld meter.
This was a valuable hint about the IKEA lamp. Thank you. I bought one am in the process of de-yellowing a Super-Takumar 55/21.8 lens. It is slowly (very slowly) getting more clear. I only use it for B&W film, so really, it was a non-issue, but my otherTakumar lenses are clear.I cleared a couple of 105mm lenses with a cheap IKEA LED lamp that gives off a bit of UV. They were quite yellow when I bought them, but I couldn't see any evidence of it when I'd finished. Colour photos looked fine. However, it took something like seven weeks of constant illumination to sort them out.
My 67 MLU was a total lemon. Kept firing blank frames, and my supplier and their repairer were both befuddled. ...
I don't know if that behaviour is peculiar to my camera or if all 6x7 MLU's work that way. Other than that, the camera works perfectly when the shutter speed dial is set precisely to the indicated speed. I do not have a manual for the camera.
In my pervious post I called the P67 "The Beast".
That's because I did extensive backpacking in Kings Canyon National Park, into remote areas.
I had the experience of taking some hand-held pictures (Efke 25), which looked pretty good at first glance on the light table
Then I broke out the loupe and took a critical look... blurred. Very bad. Much wailing and gnashing of teeth.
Lesson learned, I now always use a tripod with the P67. Results using Delta 100 and DR5 processing are stunning.
Latter I read Barry Thornton's book "Edge of Darkness". Highly recommended, he covers the use of tripods for landscape work (among other topics). I now always use a tripod for all landscape work.
kris
In my pervious post I called the P67 "The Beast".
Then I broke out the loupe and took a critical look... blurred. Very bad. Much wailing and gnashing of teeth.
kris
AAAGGGHHH, FFS, it's MEDIUM format!!!!!Handheld is possible with P67 for SURE! But it depends!
All lenses " under 300mm " are with no problem for use without tripod incl. 200mm!
With 300mm and higher (look above my reply) it is relative!
IF YOU ARE ABLE TO WORK WITH 50mm and 35mm film below 1/30sek handheld you are also able to operate P67 with tele lenses!
Not every photographer is able (or willing) but if you did serve in the army you remember they did
show you technics - same technic is good for shooting with films (sorry to state but it is so)!
And I am not speaking from sniper training!
If you need big enlargements these technics find limitations of course!
I shot with 600mm AND low speed films from a harbour ferry - that was my limitation this day!
But a good tripod is of course ALLWAYS better!
with regard
PS : Never have ambitions to be better handheld than a tripod - especially if you shooting
movies! But for normal photography it is realy possible - there the Pentax67 is one of the
best competitors in midt format!
wy21 this experience had to make all photographers once a day! Then they had to make the next
experience if inspection via loupe is fine - what will hapen by enlarging above 1meter!
So folks come on : Open your archives of negatives to find out the percentage of realy made
100% sharp shots! It is for sure much lower you could imagine!
with regards
PS : For 100% sharpness you ALLWAYS have the need oft 3things :
1) a realy good stabile tripod from massive design/construction
2) a mirror lockup (also with 35mm camera don't be naive)
3) this fine tool :
View attachment 220319
If you are missing just one of these fundamental things you better should not prove how sharp
your negatives you have shot during all the decades realy are.....
with regards
PS : Exeption : real wide shots, shots above 1/ 1000sec. = you need min. 1 /2000 sec,
and ALL enlargements up to 30 x 40midt format up to 70 x 90 !
So again : Try to shot hendheld with this here :
View attachment 220317
......and Trendland will wish you "Bon Chance" (even without tele lenses)...!
with regards
PS : Plesse stop discussing that P67 isn't made for handheld!
By the way P A U L "Wtf." is not a word my tablet is autocorrecting and I personally realy don'tWtf is this midt format you keep mentioning?
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