Any of you is using PMK as a "general purpose" developer

[PepMiro]

I normally shoot FP4+, HP5+, TMAX-100 and TMAX-400 and my preferred developers are Rodinal, Ilfosol-S, Neofin Blue and XTOL and I'm satisfied with the results.
Last week, I bought a kit of PMK developer, that I never tried before, and I souped T-MAX 100 and ADOX 100 in 4x5 sheets, and FP4+ and HP5+ in 120.
I used the standard recommended times and dilution, with no previous tests, and shoot film at nominal speed (EI 100 for 100TMAX and ADOX, EI 400 for HP5+ and EI 125 for FP4+).
I did landscapes in high contrast light and other not so contrasty, and I also made some portraits in studio.
The results were MUCH better than I expected. ALL of the photos have full tonal scale, quite detailed shadows and highlights (not burned at all), and GREAT MIDTONES!!!
I'm very excited with PMK!
I'm thinking about using it as a general purpose developer but I'm not decided to do it because I don't have much experience and, on the other hand, I don't see much threads talking about it.
Any of you is using normally PMK? Are there any problem that I don't know?... Please, let me know your experiences with it.
Thanks,
Josep

 

[Amund]

I`ve been using PMK all summer, and have the same impression as you, it`s giving very nice tones in contrasty light and the negs both print and scan beautyfully.

Summer is near it`s end here in Norway, so there will be a lot of dull, flat light here and I`m curious to how the PMK will hold up. I suspect I need to buy some other developer for those N+ situations....

 

[mikebarger]

I wonder if that is the nature of staining developers, nice results.

I've only used HC110 before this week. I have developed a couple rolls of 120 Tri-x 400 in 510 Pyro and I'm very happy with the results. I had ordered the kit from Artcraft.

Pretty easy to mix, one shot straight from syrup just like the HC110. I'm sure the two part developers are a snap to use also.

I'm anxious to try 4x5 HP5 in the 510 Pyro.

Good luck with the change.

Mike

 

[Robert Brummitt]

I use PMK and WD2D+ only for all my work. Once you use Pyro its hard to ever go back.
It sounds like you are about to find that out as well.
HA!

 

[toddstew]

I've used PMK with Tri-x for the last three years, and I love it. I just switched to fp4 in PMK and it is great as well. I also started shooting 8x10 recently and started with bpf200, but switched to jandc classic 100, also in PMK. Once you get used to the blue tint if the jand c, it is nice in PMK. One thing though, skip the second dunk in the developer after fixing. Other than that, I see no reason to use anything else.
Todd

 

[PhotoJim]

I've never been particularly hapy with t-grain films in PMK, but for traditional emulsions (which I shoot in the majority), I use PMK nearly exclusively. (I've been developing my second set of sheet film exposures in Rodinal or D-76 just to see how they compare, but PMK has been my primary developer for over five yeras.)

PMK keeps nearly forever too (my stock solution is 5 1/2 years old and still going strong, although I'm getting near the bottom). It's great for people who shoot intermediate amounts of film because you don't waste any money with your stock solution going bad.

 

[papagene]

Use it and like it!

gene

 

[David A. Goldfarb]

Lately I use ABC as my general purpose developer, but in the past I've used PMK that way, and if you like it, I don't see any reason not to. Now I mainly use PMK for the grain masking effect with 6x6, and I use ABC for larger formats. I rarely shoot B&W any smaller than that.

 

[Jimbob]

Used it for years!

I've used PMK as my primary developer for over 10 years. I fall off the wagon every once and awhile but return each time. I fall victim to the hype touted for some developers. But honestly, PMK, without a doubt offers the best of all developers for my purposes. Film Speed. Beautiful Mid-tones. Minimal grain. Wonderful Gradation. Ease of use. Rotary or Hand processing. Repeatability. Temperature variations with the same results. Some films stain more than others. I don't let that stop me. I use it with FP-4 mostly. But, I use it without hesitation on all films -- new and old. It works every time; regardless the film. What else can I say -- I love it!

Jimbob

 

[noseoil]

I use it most of the time for both "miniature" films, 35mm & 120mm. There are two negatives I can say about it, but you may find things a bit different. First, shadow values are muddy due to the general staining properties, one reason I've changed to Pyrocat-hd in large format work. Second is the need for nearly constant agitation with all films. Again, the general staining properties do not allow the use of stand or minimal agitation development. This having been said, I like it very much with Efke 25 & chrome. It just sparkles in the sun. tim

 

[don sigl]

I have been using PMK for 120 and LF for about 10 years. I switched from D23 and never looked back. You simply can't beat it for its ability to maintain highlight separation. Recently, I switched LF development to Jobo drums. I moved to Pyrocat for drum processing and stand development. The two formulas produce very similar results for me. Any way you go, it'll be hard to give up Pyro once you get it zoned in.

 

[scootermm]

For what its worth. I had some bad experiences with PMK. I used it for about a year with 120, 4x5, and then 8x10. I was getting some very uneven staining that was noticeable when I enlarged the 120 and even noticeable in smooth tonal areas of 4x5 and 8x10, especially in sky areas. it was suggested I switch to Pyro HD (sandy Kings) and it literally went away after the first developing session. Havent looked back since then. I use it for medium format still (along with some Rodinal when I shoot higher speed film) and really love it.
just my 2 cents of experience.

 

[jp80874]

I have been using Rollo Pyro, which I think is similar to PMK, but designed for the Jobo constant agitation. Over the last two and a half years I have worked up from 4x5 to 8x10 in Expert drums and 7x17 in a 1500 series extended drum. Until four months ago that was with T Max 400 film exclusively. The 7x17 came with Tri X, HP5+ and FP4+ so I have been happily experimenting and learning with those.

I started using Pyro at the suggestion of Bob Herbst while preparing to take his platinum printing course. Though most of my printing is in silver now I have stayed with pyro for the reasons already given. Great stuff, just follow the directions about safety, Nitrile gloves, good ventilation and a mask with filters when using the powder.

John Powers