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Any Canon AE-1 Program Love here??

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Ozark Wolverine

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Mountain Grove, MO
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Pentax MX, K-1000 and Spotmatics were my first 35mm loves . . . My MX died an ugly death a few years ago when I lost it in a fire. I had a 1/2 dozen K-1000s from when you could literally buy them for $20 - $40 five years ago with a Vivitar zoom lens and a 28mm lens with a bag . . .those days are gone . . . gave all of them away except for a beautiful K-1000 SE with the above lenses and the Pentax 50mm. Well that one just went on the Fritz (meter stopped working) . . . sending it out for repair.

Never cared for the Canon AE-1 Program much . . . I like cameras that do not require a battery to operate the shutter. Soo if the battery dies you can just revert to Sunny 16.

Somehow over the years I acquired FOUR Canon AE-1 Programs . . one was my deceased fathers . . . with a good spectrum of Canon lenses. And now that my K-1000 SE is out for repair I am using my Dads Canon . . .

Just looking for your thought on this Camera . . . oh BTW . . . everyone of these AE-1 Programs had the dreaded shutter "Squeal" which I addressed with lube in the proper location . . .

And I shoot primarily Medium Format . . . the 35s are my opportunistic "Throw in the truck in case I see a UFO" camera. A camera is with me 24-7

Thoughts?
 
I have had and still shoot a number of Canon FD bodies that use the PX28 / 4LR44 sized 6V battery. Yep a few of them had to be serviced, including lubrication of the mirror brake which produced the infamous 'squeal'. Apart from that they have all produced consistently good results. All of the Canon A series bodies require a battery to operate both the meter and the shutter. No battery and you have an unusable paperweight.

In that particular sized battery we started off with silver oxide batteries in the '70s which normally last for up to 4 years. More lately we have the choice between alkaline, (12 months lifespan?), and pricey lithium batteries, PX28L which have a very long shelf life ,(6 years plus), but are expensive - in Australia about $AUD30 each.

Don't just throw your Canon in the pickup bed though. Most cameras appreciate a bit more gentle treatment even though the Canon A series bodies were among the first to use laminated polycarbonate bodies which were more resistant to denting than the pressed metal bodies used earlier.
 
I have three AE-1 bodies (one P). Just don't ask.

Which are completely replaced by Minolta AF bodies.
 
Which are completely replaced by Minolta AF bodies.

A few years ago I was gifted a number of late model Minolta AF bodies, 2 x Alpha 7 and an Alpha 807 (JDM models), and about 8 lenses. Never did warm to them but I keep them around as they have some lens focal lengths which I don't otherwise have but I use occasionally. The big issue for me with these late model AF cameras is the expensive lithium batteries they eat, (unless I spend more for the accessory grips to use AA batteries).
 
FWIW, the silver oxide version of the PX28 battery can still be found - at a higher price than it used to be.
 
The Canon A series bodies were among the first to use laminated polycarbonate bodies which were more resistant to denting than the pressed metal bodies used earlier.

They are not from Polycarbonate, but for technical reason from ABS. And strictly speaking they are not laminated but galvanized.

By the way, such was introduced by Pentacon, on the Praktica L series.
 
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I had the AE-1, AE-1P and A-1 but I sold the AE-1P. I don't remember very well but I think I like the AE-1P better than the AE-1 not because of the Program feature but I like its shutter speed dial better. I also like the digital display of the AE-1P.
 
The trade-offs of carrying a spare battery vs. the limitations of mechanical shutter cameras is really kind of silly. I have never had a battery exhaust while shooting. And even if it did, it takes a couple of minutes to replace it.
 
I used to love those cameras, and still appreciate their features (although using 3rd party lenses and figuring out the metering is pretty strange). Nowadays, they seem unnaturally large for a 35mm SLR, and the film advance feels like grinding walnuts, probably due to the weird way they changed it from the original AE-1 cameras. Still, they take the great FD glass, the user replaceable focus screen is nice and bright, etc.
 
The trade-offs of carrying a spare battery vs. the limitations of mechanical shutter cameras is really kind of silly. I have never had a battery exhaust while shooting. And even if it did, it takes a couple of minutes to replace it.

Exactly.
-) Exchanging a battery costs less time than exchanging a film.
-) The hassle of taking with one a spare battery is minime compared to films and filter, let alone lenses
-) There is a battery check at all the A cameras, that is gradual, thus giving some warning ahead in time.


By the way, before joining Apug I was not aware of cameras working on batteries being a problem as such, nor that something as a pre.wash even existed.
 
Pentax MX, K-1000 and Spotmatics were my first 35mm loves . . . My MX died an ugly death a few years ago when I lost it in a fire. I had a 1/2 dozen K-1000s from when you could literally (...)
Just looking for your thought on this Camera . . . oh BTW . . . everyone of these AE-1 Programs had the dreaded shutter "Squeal" which I addressed with lube in the proper location . . .

Camera technician here. I've had lots of mechanical problems with (unmaintained) K1000s and Spotties, while AE-1 Programs are often just fine mechanically. The shutter squeal is simple to solve.

The electronics are reliable, the viewfinder clear and it's a pleasant camera to use.
 
FWIW, the silver oxide version of the PX28 battery can still be found - at a higher price than it used to be.

On the other hand, the AE-1P works just fine with the alkaline or lithium version of the PX28.

The only one in the A-series that really requires a silver battery is the AT-1, since its meter requires a precise voltage source.
 
This has been my first caméra, and I still own it even if it's now a shelf queen. I still like it, and it works as fine as 41 years ago. I had one CLA done to remove the infamous squeak.
 
The only one in the A-series that really requires a silver battery is the AT-1, since its meter requires a precise voltage source.
Doesn't the AT-1 have a built-in voltage regulator? So long as the battery puts out 6V or more, it will work just fine?
 
I’ve bought several AE-1 at flea markets for peanuts…and all have worked. Not my favorite as I am a Aperture Priority type of guy, and never use Program mode.

I buy the batteries bulk, as my A-1 and F-1N like them, too.
 
Doesn't the AT-1 have a built-in voltage regulator? So long as the battery puts out 6V or more, it will work just fine?

No, it doesn't work that way. It uses the exact voltage of the silver battery. It's a more conventional circuit.
 
But it cuts off the shutter below 5V. Thus already concerning shutter operation it makes sense using a battery that keeps the voltage rather at level for most of its lifetime.
 
But it cuts off the shutter below 5V. Thus already concerning shutter operation it makes sense using a battery that keeps the voltage rather at level for most of its lifetime.

The shutter circuit is not the same as the meter circuit. They're separate. See here:

upload_2022-2-21_18-22-1.png



At the left (cropped) is the timing circuit. At the right (in sight), the metering circuit.

As you can see, it will depend on precise voltage from the battery. QED.
 
You did not get my point. With "it" I meant the camera circuit in general, not the meter circuit.
 
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