Any advices for midnight, or before-dawn street photography?

[kl122002]

Okay, first , I must admit I have encounter few real bad expereinces in the 2 nights . The first night was being stalked by a stranger for a few streets. We pretended we didn't see each other but in fact I could always feel his existance somewhere in the darkness around the corner . He was dressed in heavy coat but clean. Just within that few seconds when my eyes has caught into his sight, I got a dangerous feeling, and he is obviously not someone safe. I dropped him when I saw a taxi and let the driver brought me home .

The second night was just the streets below my apartment. The enviroment is much safer. But very soon I have been inespected by police twice. I don't know why . Gadly my identitied are with me so the checking is quick . And I got adviced from a nice officer that I shouldn't do this during this period of hours becase the crime rate is much higher.

So any good advices for street photography during might or before-dawn ? I wish to step into this field becase I have never been into . And while in that 2 nights actually I have seen many things I have never seen before: people jogging , returning from shift, preparing works in bakery or newstands, fresh vegitables going to the wet market .... These scenes are nice and I really got attracked.

I have Tri-X and HP5 Plus and would push processed upto ISO 800 or 1600 and the camera I am using is Canon New F-1 with a 50/1.4 or 35mm f/2 , does it enough? Should I also try rangefinder cameras like Canon 7 ?

 

[guangong]

From my point of view, a rangefinder would be easier to conceal. I would try a Leica or Canon screw mount camera.
As for problems with crime, walking around during off hours, etc., can add nothing but that Hong Kong is now China.

 

[Alex Benjamin]

You are not going to get mugged for your camera. You're going to get mugged for your money, your credit cards and your phone, whether or not you carry all that with you (mugger doesn't know). In case the mugger does leave with the camera, I would certainly not carry a Leica, but my cheapest, albeit most reliable, and easiest to replace, camera. Losing my Nikon FM would not bother me as much as losing my Leica M2.

All this said, best advice is, if you're not sure about how safe a neighborhood your photographing is, don't do it alone. Either go with a friend, or, ideally, find other photographers who are interested in night photography and organize group outings.

This reminds me that I once read an interview with Todd Hido which he talks about the dangers he faced when photographing houses at night ( http://www.toddhido.com/homes.html ). I'll try to see if I can find it.

 

[Thwyllo]

You are not going to get mugged for your camera. You're going to get mugged for your money, your credit cards and your phone, whether or not you carry all that with you (mugger doesn't know). In case the mugger does leave with the camera, I would certainly not carry a Leica, but my cheapest, albeit most reliable, and easiest to replace, camera. Losing my Nikon FM would not bother me as much as losing my Leica M2.

All this said, best advice is, if you're not sure about how safe a neighborhood your photographing is, don't do it alone. Either go with a friend, or, ideally, find other photographers who are interested in night photography and organize group outings.

This reminds me that I once read an interview with Todd Hido which he talks about the dangers he faced when photographing houses at night ( http://www.toddhido.com/homes.html ). I'll try to see if I can find it.

That's a naïve assertion. How many muggers know a film camera from a digital one? Both, in the form he's using, look expensive and would be a target.

 

[Sirius Glass]

When possible and available use T [Tungsten] films.

I have used these since 1963:

Night Exposures - In a Jiffy

I love shooting after sunset - the limited dynamic range of twilight, the rich colors in the sky after the sun has long gone, the twinkling lights of a distant city, the trails of car lights along ...

f-sunny.com

See Attached

 

[Alex Benjamin]

That's a naïve assertion. How many muggers know a film camera from a digital one? Both, in the form he's using, look expensive and would be a target.

You obviously didn't read me well. First, I said chances are he won't be mugged for his camera. Muggers are after quick cash, not reselling cameras on eBay. Second, I said that if the camera is of interest to the mugger (if he does think he can make a buck out of it), best for the photographer to have a cheap one than an expensive one. I didn't say anything about digital or film, and don't have a clue as to where you read that in my statement.

Furthermore, that's the least important advice in my statement—for all I care, OP can carry a 4x5 view camera if that's what he's in to. Main advice is if you feel you absolutely want to go out in risky neighborhoods, don't do it alone if you can.

 

[Sirius Glass]

You obviously didn't read me well. First, I said chances are he won't be mugged for his camera. Muggers are after quick cash, not reselling cameras on eBay. Second, I said that if the camera is of interest to the mugger (if he does think he can make a buck out of it), best for the photographer to have a cheap one than an expensive one. I didn't say anything about digital or film, and don't have a clue as to where you read that in my statement.

Furthermore, that's the least important advice in my statement—for all I care, OP can carry a 4x5 view camera if that's what he's in to. Main advice is if you feel you absolutely want to go out in risky neighborhoods, don't do it alone if you can.

Take some friends with you when you go out shooting night photographs OR choose more public areas to take photographs at night.

 

[MattKing]

Moved to the Exposure Discussion sub-forum.
The "hidden from search engines" sub-forum is intended to keep other things less visible.

 

[BobUK]

My advice is, go to bed late and get up early.

 

[Pieter12]

A monopod comes in handy for a couple of reasons.

 

[Sirius Glass]

A monopod comes in handy for a couple of reasons.

Tripods are better and give more bang for the buck. I used one that way once. He never came back for more.

 

[Vaughn]

You could try working in the hours before dawn. Most muggers are asleep. You might start documenting, or including, the early-risers and workers.

 

[gone]

They sell what the op needs in most pawn shops, but in my mind, just avoid cities where one feels unsafe after dark. In Albuquerque, Memphis, New Orleans, Savannah, Detroit, Chicago, S,F. Tenderloin/Bayview/Hunters Point, Cokeland, Portland's Burnside District, Washington D.C. etc, you couldn't pay me enough money to shoot after dark in those places (this is based on actual experience, not reading newspapers).

I won't live in or near any of that anymore because it's just not worth the risk. But there are some safe cities in the U.S. to shoot in at night. No one ever bothered me in San Diego, Hilo, Hi, Daytona Beach (in certain areas beach side), St Pete, New Smyrna Beach, Ocean Beach, Pacific Beach, certain areas of Tucson and a few more places. If the op doesn't feel 100% safe wherever they're doing night photography, that's a strong signal to go somewhere else.

 

[Sirius Glass]

They sell what the op needs in most pawn shops, but in my mind, just avoid cities where one feels unsafe after dark. In Albuquerque, Memphis, New Orleans, Savannah, Detroit, Chicago, S,F. Tenderloin/Bayview/Hunters Point, Cokeland, Portland's Burnside District, Washington D.C. etc, you couldn't pay me enough money to shoot after dark in those places (this is based on actual experience, not reading newspapers).

I won't live in or near any of that anymore because it's just not worth the risk. But there are some safe cities in the U.S. to shoot in at night. No one ever bothered me in San Diego, Hilo, Hi, Daytona Beach (in certain areas beach side), St Pete, New Smyrna Beach, Ocean Beach, Pacific Beach, certain areas of Tucson and a few more places. If the op doesn't feel 100% safe wherever they're doing night photography, that's a strong signal to go somewhere else.

Buildings and monuments in the downtown Washington DC area should be safe. There are no open businesses and restaurants in the area and no reason for people to be there. I believe that it is still well policed.

 

[Paul Howell]

If you are shooting in times and areas which are not heavy populated at night you are bound to draw the attention of the criminal element or the police. As noted by others go out with friends. Not sure about Hong Kong but when I was working PJ I would approach the police and explain what I was shooting and why. As privacy laws vary from country to country be sure and know the local rules. Rather than a Canon 7 I would look for a Canon QL 1.7 fixed lens rangefinder. Fast lens, light, easy to hand hold in low light, light meter if in good repair is accurate. My go to film for street photography is Tmax, shooting at 800 is not really a push, at 1600 more like a 1.5 push than a 2 push. The one draw back to the Canon CL 1.7 is that meter tops out at 800.

 

[warden]

Vaughn makes a good point. Making photographs while the city is about to wake up is far safer than late at night, at least where I live.

Edit to add: Hong Kong, after an admittedly brief google search, looks pretty safe to me, with an absence of guns and violent crime, at least compared to major cities in the USA. A small fraction of the violence we routinely see here actually. Still I wouldn’t be keen to be harassed by the police or followed around as the OP reports.

 

[Vaughn]

Consider another inexpensive 35mm camera and tripod. Does not have to be a fast lens. The camera would be for very long exposures while you work with your other camera. This is something Michael Kenna did when he was still using 35mm.

Once you get a couple good examples of your work, make small prints that you can show to the police and to others, to demonstrate what you are doing...you might get some good interactions.

 

[beemermark]

One of the greatest assets for exploring a new, very difficult, type of photography is DIGITAL. Learning how to do night shots, or any type of low light photography, was expensive and time consuming when I was young (40 years ago or more). Today you can buy a cheap digital (even second hand) camera and go out and shoot hundreds of low light photography pics and the software will even record the iso/aperature/f-stop (try taking notes with pencil and paper in the dark). Once you develop a feel for what works then you can use film (which is a whole ot more money).

 

[kl122002]

If you are shooting in times and areas which are not heavy populated at night you are bound to draw the attention of the criminal element or the police. As noted by others go out with friends. Not sure about Hong Kong but when I was working PJ I would approach the police and explain what I was shooting and why. As privacy laws vary from country to country be sure and know the local rules. Rather than a Canon 7 I would look for a Canon QL 1.7 fixed lens rangefinder. Fast lens, light, easy to hand hold in low light, light meter if in good repair is accurate. My go to film for street photography is Tmax, shooting at 800 is not really a push, at 1600 more like a 1.5 push than a 2 push. The one draw back to the Canon CL 1.7 is that meter tops out at 800.

Consider another inexpensive 35mm camera and tripod. Does not have to be a fast lens. The camera would be for very long exposures while you work with your other camera. This is something Michael Kenna did when he was still using 35mm.

Once you get a couple good examples of your work, make small prints that you can show to the police and to others, to demonstrate what you are doing...you might get some good interactions.

Great idea, thats I have never thought of. Any other camera suggestion ? I have Yashica Lynx 14E and Konica Auto S (f/1.8) . Should I give Q17 a try as well? And do these lower price RFs support low-light metering? I don't think Konica chould handle such low EV condition. And somehow if I could kept my light meter at home during night time would be much better.

Should I also invest a steel monopod as well ? For just in case ...

Vaughn makes a good point. Making photographs while the city is about to wake up is far safer than late at night, at least where I live.

Edit to add: Hong Kong, after an admittedly brief google search, looks pretty safe to me, with an absence of guns and violent crime, at least compared to major cities in the USA. A small fraction of the violence we routinely see here actually. Still I wouldn’t be keen to be harassed by the police or followed around as the OP reports.

I was living in NYC before pandemic and I know how it was in the dark. But right now after these 3 years people here in HK changed a lot (lost jobs, eger to go out , missing follow up in clincs) reacting strangely and I can't tell whether it is st ill "safe" at night.
Just like the night I made this topic , a small fire broke out ext to my street and it has burnned some junks on the ground. We don't know who did that and why such thing happened.

 

[Vaughn]

The camera just has to have a "B" setting to keep the lens open as long as you want it to.

You do not need a light meter. Some quick experiments and good notes, you will find that the exposures will not change much. And there are several night exposure recommendations sheets out there.

 

[Marcelo Paniagua]

Tripods are better and give more bang for the buck. I used one that way once. He never came back for more.

In the context of night shooting where you want to setup things quick, take you shoot as move as fast of possible, it may made some sense. Spending to much time seeting up things make you an stationary target and may be more dangerous. On safe places or when you are on group, really don't make sense.

Also, make sense on crowded places where a tripod may get on the way of people and probably make someone trip on it.

Horses for courses I guess.

 

[Paul Howell]

The Konica S is a good choice I have S2 and 3, the S2 allows for manual override, the lens is sharp, ASA tops out at 400, to shoot Tmax 400 at 800 underexpose by one stop, develop normal. 70s vintage fixed lens rangefinder meters are not silicon and low light is not as accurate as your F1new. I have used both Konica S and S3, and the Canon with pretty good resluts. If it is really dark you can take a reading without hand held meter and unless lighting changes use the reading for all your shots. Thinking outside the box, if I was going out I would use my Minolta Max 5 with 50 1.4, set it for shutter speed auto exposure at 1/30th, tape over the sliver, turn the flash off, Tmax 3200 at 3200. You have a choice of spot or average metering as well. Cheap, the lens will cost more than the camera.