Ansco 130 (Ansel Adam's version)

[Alan9940]

Does anybody use this formula? I've read that it's a pretty soft working developer and AA used a separate hydroquinone solution to increase contrast, as needed. Let's say I have a 2L working solution of AA's variation on 130 and I want to start increasing contrast, anybody have any idea of how much of the hydroquinone solution to add? I'm assuming this solution could be added in increments bringing up the contrast as needed?

Thanks for any insight provided.

 

[Rudeofus]

If you use multigrade paper, then only very distorted developers will give you visibly different contrast.

 

[Wayne]

Well lets see, A130 usually has 11 grams HQ in that 1:1 working solution you're using if its 2 liters of solution.

I think I would make a 10% solution and add it in 1-2 gram increments until I got the results i wanted. Ansel however mixed 10 grams HQ in a freaking gallon of water, which would require such quantities to increase the HQ significantly that you'd also be diluting the hell out of your existing solution at the same time. But he's the Saint and I'm just a sinner...his eyes were certainly more finely tuned sensitometric devices than mine.

 

[Alan9940]

Hello Wayne,

According to Anchell's "The Darkroom Cookbook", Ansel's hydroquinone solution is:

Sodium Sulfite 25g
Hydroquinone 10g
Water to make 1L

Anchell says to "Add the hydroquinone solution as needed to the stock solution."

I searched and searched via Google, but couldn't find any reference to how much one might start with or if there was some "accepted increment" to use until the desired contrast is reached. I guess I'll just work it out for myself by starting with 2-3 ml and go from there.

Thanks for your input.

 

[Wayne]

Hello Wayne,

According to Anchell's "The Darkroom Cookbook", Ansel's hydroquinone solution is:

Sodium Sulfite 25g
Hydroquinone 10g
Water to make 1L

Anchell says to "Add the hydroquinone solution as needed to the stock solution."

I searched and searched via Google, but couldn't find any reference to how much one might start with or if there was some "accepted increment" to use until the desired contrast is reached. I guess I'll just work it out for myself by starting with 2-3 ml and go from there.

Thanks for your input.

Yeah you're right, it was late and I was mixing columns from the recipe in back of The Print. I doubt 2-3 mls is going to make much of a change though. Its a 1% solution so thats only .02-.03 grams of HQ. I think I'd wanted a more concentrated, 10% solution and then 2-3 ml might be a worthwhile change. But that's just me, and I've never tried it, and if Ansel used that weaker solution he probably had a good reason.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

If you use multigrade paper, then only very distorted developers will give you visibly different contrast.

that's rightmost of the image characteristics are in the paper not in the developer.

 

[DREW WILEY]

He simply doubled the hydroquinone to get a slightly cooler image color, but I don't personally like the effect. It comes out a bit greenish like Dektol. You can also sub 0.2 g benzotriazole for the 2g Kbr, but I prefer use the classic 130 formula and cool the print with GP-1 gold toner afterwards.

 

[Alan9940]

He simply doubled the hydroquinone to get a slightly cooler image color, but I don't personally like the effect. It comes out a bit greenish like Dektol. You can also sub 0.2 g benzotriazole for the 2g Kbr, but I prefer use the classic 130 formula and cool the print with GP-1 gold toner afterwards.

I generally prefer the classic 130 formula, too. But, I tried the 130AA formula some time ago and found it to produce a pretty low contrast print. Since my favorite contact printing paper is Adox Lupex and I've yet to find a developer formula that gives me the contrast I prefer in my prints--mostly I've used Amidol for this paper which provides a pretty punchy print--the thought occurred to me at some point recently that, maybe, the 130AA formula would tamp down the contrast of this paper a bit. If to low to my liking, theoretically I can add the hydroquinone solution to increase contrast to just where I want it. I haven't tried any of this so, at this point it's all simply conjecture.

I just mixed up some 130AA and the hydroquinone solution today. Based on what Wayne said, I'll probably add at 50-100ml until I see a contrast change. I plan to be in the darkroom tomorrow trying it out.

 

[DREW WILEY]

Hydroquinone activity and hence final contrast and specific image color is affected by temperature. If you're too far out of bounds from 20C (68F), hydroquinone either goes to sleep (too cool) or get too active (too warm). Today I made comparison prints of the same negative, amidol vs 130, in each case on Bergger VC neutral tone. Unlike most papers, the difference was minor. A nice cool tone in each case, but still with subtle complex undertones. I toned them in GP1 gold chloride, to further cool the image.