There seems to be quite a few different formulas for Amidol developer - what do you folks use for AZO??
Many people are fond of Michael Smith`s formula, which is basically a modified amidol/citric acid formulation. Based on the information I have read and the loyal folowing he has I suspect his would be the best formula for AZO. OTOH if you feel like experimenting I have the theory that pyrogallol can work just as well and much cheaper than amidol. When pyro is used as a non staining developer for paper it has the same charachteristics as amidol and of course the price is much lower.
I use the Smith/Chamlee version. I still have the "old" Azo so haven't had to start changing things yet. I like the results so haven't needed to change.
I gulp each time I look at this - between 5 and 11 dollars a tray full. It really is a pacing item for working with AZO. Of course when I consider the inter-positives and final negatives - (I am not sure I would go to all this effort for a 4x5 contact print-) adding that extra work makes the cost seem less significant to the whole project. I have used PMK for over a year now - I may have to try the Pyro experiment - I just guess I have to resign myself to make it count while the chems are fresh! Jorge - do you have an idea of a starting point for a pyro paper developer? I have THE DARKROOM COOKBOOK and it has a formula for a pyro print developer. I guess I'll have to try them both and compare - It seems to me that if the results were as good - folks would stop using amidol - Of course there is always the saftey issues of pyro - I don't know if amidol is as toxic. I don't have any problems putting my hands in PQ developers but I will not do that with Pyro.
While I'm not Jorge, I can lead you to the very informative (at least in German) site of Wolfgang Moersch. The recipes are found by (through the German front page) clicking "Anleitungen", then "Know How". This brings you to a page with two entries in English - both well worth reading! There are occasional clear signs of translation, ask me if anything's unclear. The lith instructions (in German) are good too...
I think not many people use pyro for paper because they think it is only a stainning developer. The properties of pyro as a paper developer are very similar to amidol, it is a very active developer that develops from the "top" as amidol is said to do. When I mentioned this I was thinking on the formula I saw in the developing cookbook, but I have seen another one in another book, I will look it up and send you the formula. Just dont give up on it right away, I get the feeling you might get a very workeable developer a lot cheaper.
I like AZO in Rodinal 1:10...and it is definatley cheep to use. If you want I can send you a sample pic developed this way.
Agfa Neutol WA is good, too. The outlay per gram of amidol is high, but its long tray life (I've used it after its having been left out for more than 24 hours) and high capacity (you can't exhaust it - it will be gone from carryover loss before it's depleted) make it very economical. Just make sure you have a lot of negatives to print whenever you use it. Other developers work with Azo, but don't give you the control over contrast that you have with amidol and a water bath.
For Azo I have found Peckham's Amidol works well -it keeps for a long time. Dupont 55-D also gives a deep warm tone. Not to suggest that either is better than Michael's formula. Mark Layne
