Amber LED safelight test successful

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Ulophot

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Good news for at least some of you amber-safelight-preference B&W printers! As promised, I tested the SuperBrights amber LED S‑11 screw base-type bulb, 7.5-Watt equivalent. https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...globe-bulb-27-lumens/440/#/tab/Specifications

It’s bright and it works for Ilford Warmtone FB. It’s great to know that I don’t have to worry about switching to red lights if my OC filters fade enough to fog.

Now, keep in mind, this paper is about half the speed of Ilford Classic FB, of which latter I have none on-hand. I’ll be interested to hear from someone who tests this bulb with it.

Here is a bit more about how I proceeded and my set-up, shown approximately in the diagram.

For decades, I have had just two, “bullet”-style, 5 .5 -inch round safelights, each with a 15-Watt light bulb and a Kodak OC filter. Both units are attached to the wall as high as my 8’ ceiling allows. As shown, one hangs at the washer end of the sink, approximately 4.7’ from the developer tray and aimed down and outward from the wall to cover the sink area. The other is roughly 4’ above the paper cutter, aimed down but angled about 30 degrees toward the dry mount press, simply out of caution.

I removed the filter from that one and substituted the LED bulb. Though it was certainly brighter, I didn’t fully realize how much until I had had the lights off for a bit while set up the test. It was so bright that I decided to aim it almost horizontally along the (light gray) wall and toward the adjacent wall area above the press. The reflected light was still was much brighter than the OC, so I crossed my fingers.

With only the sink safelight on, and no negative in the enlarger, I tested for exposure threshold of the paper in 1-second increments with a #2 contrast filter, finding 9 seconds to be threshold. I made a test strip of 1- to 12-second exposures, placed it on the enlarging table to the left of the enlarger, covered half the long dimension of the strip (right angle to the exposure steps) with a weighted mounting board, and turned on the LED for a full 8 minutes of exposure, which is about twice as long under the enlarger as I have ever had to keep paper in making a print.

I developed normally. There was zero sign of any darkening anywhere along the uncovered side of the test strip.

The brighter light from the LED, now spread out much more widely, created much better visibility at the enlarger with softer lighting. But every solution creates a new problem, of course. In this case, the light was bright enough to interfere somewhat with viewing a projected negative image when careful burning and dodging are required. And, since the bullet enclosure front was now open, I foresaw dust inevitably collecting inside. I cut an OC filter-sized circle of frosted mylar (or frosted whatever-it-is) that I use for dodging masks, to cover the open front and dim the light. That brought the illumination level closer to, though still a bit above, what I have had.

The remaining issue is that I find all that illumination of the press area, art table, etc.—a visually very busy area—a bit distracting; I not used to seeing it while enlarging. I may try making a collar to cut down the spill in that direction a bit.

The LEDs are so cheap -- ~$3 per -- that I ordered four. I should live so long!

For now I may leave the sink light as-is; perhaps I’ll try the LED in it and bounce it off the ceiling with some diffusion, to even out the lighting, but it could spill over to the enlarging area…
 

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Donald Qualls

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Sure would be convenient if this would work (with suitable attenuation) for RA-4. The wavelength is close to perfect (589-590 nm is preferred, this claims 596) and screw base is easy to deal with. I may have to get one and test it.
 

wiltw

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It is not so much about wavelength but also more about INTENSITY! Having done color printing in the past, the light was extremely dim...it took sitting in the darkroom for a prolonged period of time simply to be able to see by the dim light.
 

Donald Qualls

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It is not so much about wavelength but also more about INTENSITY! Having done color printing in the past, the light was extremely dim...it took sitting in the darkroom for a prolonged period of time simply to be able to see by the dim light.

That's why I mentioned suitable attenuation. At the very least, I'd bounce the light off the ceiling, to both dim and diffuse it -- most likely I'd find a need for a filter to lower the intensity --- but that can be arrived at via safelight testing. The more perfect the wavelength and narrower the bandspread, the brighter the light can be. That's why Thomas Duplex and Duka safelights, with low pressure sodium lamps, can be surprisingly bright: their light is perfectly in the minimum sensitivity of RA-4 papers, which is several stops lower than the peaks.
 

BradS

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@Ulophot Super cool! Thanks for sharing your method and findings !
 

MattKing

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Donald Qualls

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Okay, I ordered two of these bulbs (about $9 including economy shipping). The above test confirms I'll be fine with these for multigrade paper, and I already have a deep red safelight I plan to use for ortho materials (which reputedly will fog under amber safelight). I'll test these with RA-4 paper within the next couple weeks -- I've got the paper and chemistry on hand already, will just need to buy a cheap "clamp lamp" reflector fixture to mount a bulb. If it tests well with RA-4, I'll probably install a permanent setup and only need to use any other safelight when I handle ortho film.
 

Donald Qualls

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Got the LED bulbs I ordered, they aren't too bright (which is good, for a safelight) -- but in my case, I want to use them for RA-4. They're supposed to be 696 nm peak emission, but of course there isn't a good scale on the emission curve in the seller's online spec sheet. Can anyone suggest where I might get a suitable filter material to narrow the emission? Either a high cut (to block wavelengths beyond, say, 691 nm) or a narrow band pass from 689-693 or so? Or alternately, has anyone done a safelight test with these to know how much distance/diffusion they need to be safe for a reasonable time on RA-4 paper (Crystal Archive in sheets, to start)?

My plan, at present, is to install these in reflector clamp-lamp sockets (from the Big Box store), which will be bounced off the textured white ceiling. I tested one last night, just for illumination level, and a single one might be bright enough to avoid stumbles, find dropped items (on the light colored floor tile), etc. -- but I suspect it's too bright. I can bounce them off the dark walls instead to reduce the overall light levels, but beyond that it's not difficult to partially block the reflector (duct tape, for instance) to cut the light emission.
 

Donald Qualls

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Kino

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Well, there's also the question of diameter. The reflectors I have planned for these bulbs are 10-12 inches (25-30 cm) across...

That will most likely be out of economical reach unless you can find some gel material of suitable bandpass. Wratten made some larger gel filters, but they are very hard to find now. This isn't suitable for your application, but maybe there is one that is: http://www.surplus-optics.com/wratten-color-band-pass-filter-s/333.htm

Maybe you could make a light mixing chamber with one of these filters as a port to direct into a reflector.
 

Donald Qualls

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I was hoping to find a theatrical gel, actually, but I think it's fairly unlikely to get one with precise enough cut. I think these will be okay for wavelength, I'll just have to ensure they're attenuated enough. I'll start with a safelight test with two aimed in more or less the middle of the ceiling -- kind of worst case -- and then change the aim point and/or cut down to one until I get a ten minute safe time, then decide if that's bright enough to work or I need to accept a shorter safe time. If I can't get to ten minutes with a single light aimed at the (dark blue-gray) wall, I start covering the reflectors...
 
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