I started a long time ago with the recommended 500ml and had more problems than when I increased the volume to 600ml. If the reel rides up the core at all, it will be out of the solution. This can be checked visibly. If the tank doesn't sit perfectly level, a top edge will be unevenly developed. I can't imagine that decreasing the working solution by 100ml will have a positive effect on reducing foam or airbells.I would try going exactly to the instructions. If the makers of the tank say 500 ml, USE 500 ml - they will have checked it is right before they said.
Why on earth are you adding photo-flow to developer and if you use it in the wash you are probably adding residue to your next development. Take it out of the equation completely.
I would run an experiment using your normal work flow with developer but no film. I would be opening the tank at various intervals and observing what the surface of the developer looks like during processing. I suspect you will find the developer is foaming, most likely from retained photoflo residue that is present on the tank walls and reel.
I did as you described. See attached photo. The developer (HC-110) was mixed from distilled water and syrup in a clean mixing vessel. This is after the initial agitation, though I suspect the foam was there before that. What I don't understand is that if I perform the same test with plain water, there's absolutely no foam. A few bubbles (literally two or three) appear on the reel, and they respond to a light tap. But nothing like this.
The foam shown here disappeared on its own after about 30 seconds.
The developer (HC-110) was mixed from distilled water and syrup
bvy, bottled drinking water has added minerals, that should not make a difference however I thought that you wrote that you were using distilled water.
If you fill the tank, then you have trouble agitating!
If you fill the tank, then you have trouble agitating!
You have to leave some space, but cover the reel.
I want to conclude that HC-110 is foamy stuff -- at least in this dilution.
It's Kodak branded though it does say Made in Germany. Expiration is 4/2016. The 1 liter container is still about 3/4 full.Is this version of HC110 from Tetenal? Made in Germany?
Post #20 is the only one that got it right.
We've been through this before:
(there was a url link here which no longer exists)
I strongly suggest that, in order to maintain your sanity, you either use a rotary processor or a different brand of roll film. Inversion agitation of 120 Acros is, in my opinion, impossible to accomplish without some minimum number of air bells, regardless of developer or reel type used. I've tried them all, including Paterson, Kindermann and Hewes tanks/reels as well as Perceptol, Ilfotec HC and ID-11. Even two pre-rinses in sequence won't eliminate the spots. Also, that collection of air bells at the top is what keeps things less developed there, not any lack of developer. Paraphrasing the bumper sticker that I liked best among all those observed while commuting 100 miles per day round trip for 33 years:
"You'll feel much better when you give up hope."
Nope. It's Acros, irrespective of developer. You're still exhibiting hope. Give it up and enjoy freedom....I wonder if the two (Acros + HC-110) just aren't an ideal combination.
I don't even attempt to explain it; it's a red herring....how do explain the foam bvy experienced with developer only in the applesauce jar?...
Maybe I'm just lucky but I haven't had a result that would indicate a problem so don't understand why that would be true.
Why? What would keep the liquids from circulating?
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