"air" remote shutter release 'cables'...

[fmajor]

Do these work?

I'm asking about the 20' (yep, 20 feet) long ones that come with a rubber squeeze-bulb to operate the shutter. I want to use it with my Mamiya RB67 Pro-S for family photo's (including my ugly mug).

Thanks!!

 

[Mike Wilde]

They are usually nothing glamourous.

Mine from the past needed to be fully unwound, and the occasional kink in the tube (from a less than careful winding onto the storage spool) had to be massaged out before it would reliably work.

It did work fine at being actuated by placing it under the heel of the leg not bearing all of the weight without needing to make your facal expression betray what your foot is up to.

There are also mechanical clockwork delay self timers, but they are typically a quite bit more expensive.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I cannot answer that the air pressure will work with your camera, but I suggest you get an inexpensive remote timer to screw into the shutter of your Mamiya RB67.

Steve

 

[removed account4]

i have used a kaiser and a de groff for years, they work well.
the de groff will be the last cable release you will ever buy ...

 

[hoffy]

The pneumatic shutter remote work...kind of.

It all depends on how heavy your shutter release is. For things like my Minolta XE-1 and my Bronica SQ-Ai, yes the pneumatic shutter remote works without too many issues. For things like my Koni-Omega, there is not a chance in heck that a standard one will fire the shutter. There is way too much mechanical resistance to get the thing to fire.

The other thing to consider is longer exposures. The pneumatic release I own doesn’t have a valve on it, so if I do a shot using the Bulb setting, I need to keep the pump compressed. I’m not sure whether the more expensive models do have a valve or not, but it would be a nice addition.

 

[Newt_on_Swings]

I have one these releases too. I find that sometimes a quick hard squeeze will fire some tougher releases on certain cameras when a slow stead squeeze sometimes does not. Odd? but thats how it seems to work for me.

 

[fmajor]

Great responses everyone - thanks!!!

I've honestly never seen one of the remote screw-in timers, but i believe that's going to be the better way to go for me - thanks Steve!

 

[marriaga4eps]

see how much clearance you need on the RB. My air release has a large head(that holds the pin) and when i extend the RB to focus, it doesn't clear the cable release head. I had to use a regular release with the RB.

 

[bsdunek]

I have a couple of these, and a pneumatic one that my Father had back in the 30's. Handy on cameras that don't have a self timer. You have to adjust the stroke or length of travel of the plunger to match your camera, and they work fine.
I have also used the 20 foot pneumatic releases. All said above applies, but they can work OK.

 

[glbeas]

I have one these releases too. I find that sometimes a quick hard squeeze will fire some tougher releases on certain cameras when a slow stead squeeze sometimes does not. Odd? but thats how it seems to work for me.

Not too odd if you take into account the air leaks in the system. Faster you pump it the less chance of losing pressure.

 

[sdotkling]

I've used them for years. Newer ones aren't as reliable, unfortunately...crappy stuff made by Chinese slave children. Buy the most expensive one you can find. (20 bucks?) They're a clever low-tech solution, in my experience.

 

[removed account4]

degroff pistons ( brass/silver +engraved ) sell for
pennies on ebay, graphite dusts from what i have learned
from charlie webb, will bring them back to life.
a blood pressure hose + bulb cost pennies too.

it works with betax+studio shutters,
and will work with modern as well...

they are the best shutter releases money can buy

 

[eli griggs]

Keep in mind that you can always divide the longer release hose, for a more workable solution, which fits your needs, without the excess hose eating up the energy needed for the the longer hose to throw the pin.

For myself, about ten feet would be about right, for night shots, micro bellows work, long lenses and pin hole releasees.

Figure out your most important set-ups where you need this tool, the lenght you want to work with, add a yard and make the cut, saving the excess as a second or third option or repair.

It may be possible to retro fit a larger dust blower bulb to the hose, which would help actuate the shutter mechanism, for added power.

Do buy good quality so you have a sound basis to suit your need.

IMO.

 

[AgX]

They are usually nothing glamourous.
Mine from the past needed to be fully unwound, and the occasional kink in the tube (from a less than careful winding onto the storage spool) had to be massaged out before it would reliably work.

This depends on the sort of tubing used.

http://www.kaiser-fototechnik.de/en/produkte/2_1_produktanzeige.asp?nr=6143
http://www.kaiser-fototechnik.de/en/produkte/2_1_produktanzeige.asp?nr=6144


The advantage of a mechanical release seems that you got a positive feedback. With a pneumatic one you may not be as sure about the shutter being released.

 

[markfitzgerald]

I have a few cameras that use packard shutters, and I made mine with a blood pressure replacement bulb (take the valve out of the end - then you can control it with your thumb) and a spool of black latex tubing. It friction fits right into the bottom of the bulb. Mine is only about ten feet long, but no reason why it wouldn't work if it were longer.

 

[pbromaghin]

I have one of the squeeze bulbs with about 20 ft of tube. Don't know what brand, or even where/when I got it. I was dubious the first time trying it, but it works like a charm, even on Mamiya tlrs.

 

[AgX]

I got one more modern bulb release, the others are same old german kits in a PVC pouch. Typical for these older sets is that their bulbs have deteriorated. But as Mark hinted at above one may find a rubber bulb from the medical world, close its check-valve and use it instead.