Most of the slightly different approaches achieve the desired result - they replace partially exhausted chemicals adjacent to the surface of the emulsion with fresher chemicals.
The two challenges are:
1) is that replacement done in a way that ensures uniformity; and
2) is the replacement done sufficiently frequently to ensure a lot of development, but not so frequently and vigorously as to cause over-development?
Once you arrive at a method that accomplishes the first two, it is important to ensure that you use that method consistently.
Most likely, any of the methods you read about will work fine, as long as you are both consistent and you use the method in a reasonable way.
Consistency is usually the biggest challenge.
I have, literally, not found any two sources that agree, completely, on how agitation should be done. Talking about 35mm rolls.
Has anyone ever tested different agitation methods out? Has anyone used the little extension, in a Paterson tank, to twist-agitate their film? If so, can you share results?
Thanks,
Bayard
in my experience, there is nothing better for even film development than a Jobo rotation developer but rolling a developing canister at the edge of a table works similar wellSo, I've read ten articles on developing film, and viewed five or six YouTube videos, as well as read the Ilford instructions and Horenstein.
I have, literally, not found any two sources that agree, completely, on how agitation should be done. Talking about 35mm rolls.
Has anyone ever tested different agitation methods out? Has anyone used the little extension, in a Paterson tank, to twist-agitate their film? If so, can you share results?
Thanks,
Bayard
Okay, I should have specified what I am thinking about. My bad.
Let's say, for example, I have agitation method 1 and method 2. They are wildly different, in some way (timing, soft versus hard inversions, what have you).
What I am envisioning is taking two rolls out, setting the camera up on a tripod, and shooting two or three different scenes, by rotating the camera, but keeping the tripod in the same place. I take five to thirteen shots of the scene, Over and under-exposing by two stops, either in full, half, or third stop increments. Then I switch to the other scene, and repeat until I fill up the roll, maybe with a lens cover frame between the sets, maybe not.
Then I load the second roll and repeat the exposures on the same framing, same shots.
When I get back to the darkroom, I develop each roll separately, changing nothing but the agitation method between the two.
Then I pick one of the frames from roll one and get it to a split filter test print. Using the same frame from the second roll, I use the times for the first test print, then compare the results of the two prints, to see if there is any difference in the highlights or midtones. I don't suspect there would be much of an appreciable difference in the shadows, unless Method 1 was, for some reason, not to agitate at all.
Has anyone ever done this, either for agitation, or change in developer, or some other single change in process?
Bayard
Part of the problem with agitation is once you recognize uneven development, you're always looking for it. And if you look hard enough for something, you'll find it. It's like an addiction. I blissfully processed all kinds of film and would have also proclaimed "I've done A and B for years and never had a problem," which is why I'm not convinced by those claims. What may not be a problem for you, might be for me. And what may not be a problem today, might be tomorrow. For example, one day I discovered uneven development in some of my skies. Looking back, I found more subtle instances of the problem all along.
Like the OP, I started down the road of testing different agitation techniques and recording the results. I would actually recommend this; it's not only educational and insightful, but will give you more confidence over your process, once you find something that works for you.
I posted a video yesterday illustrating (there was a url link here which no longer exists). I now employ constant rotary inversion agitation using a motor base. With this technique, my problems with airbells and uneven development have disappeared -- that is, until I find something new to look for.
"You're going to need a bigger boat."PS How does your solution scale up to 5 reel tanks?
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