Often people post problems with agitation and inquire how to obtain foolproof negatives that don't have irregularities (especially between the sprocket holes!)
There are advocates of slamming the damn tank to obliterate nasty air bubbles and there are those that advocate strict '30 sec' or '60 sec' timings between movement.
I really think that my way solves all problems forever and I have employed this method for years with absolutely no problems. How? I fill the tank only half full with developer. Then, I immediately turn the tank on its side and begin rotating it throughout the development time. This absolutely guarantees that no film area will be left behind in the consistent development process. (Consistency is a must because development is most always NOT done to completion, unlike fixing.) I find that using a water bath to rotate the tank in is best for two reasons: first, it is easier to rotate because the tank becomes lighter in water and, second, because I believe that the solution actually gains a few degrees in temperature, probably because or the reaction involved. For the rotating, I usually make one 360 degree turn every five to ten seconds. One problem, especially with the Patterson tanks, is the that top part is much thicker than the bottom of the tank. You could pad the bottom part of the cylinder with something think and pliable if you wish (sealed with duct tape?) or not worry, as the amount of developer will really cover all film as the film is exposed to the solution each rotation. And, bonus, you will use far less developer. The fear of 'using up' the capacity I feel is greatly exaggerated and developers really are formulated to allow more dilution than allowed for in standard literature. My experiences affirm all this. NOTE: I do the same for the stop and fix. - David Lyga
There are advocates of slamming the damn tank to obliterate nasty air bubbles and there are those that advocate strict '30 sec' or '60 sec' timings between movement.
I really think that my way solves all problems forever and I have employed this method for years with absolutely no problems. How? I fill the tank only half full with developer. Then, I immediately turn the tank on its side and begin rotating it throughout the development time. This absolutely guarantees that no film area will be left behind in the consistent development process. (Consistency is a must because development is most always NOT done to completion, unlike fixing.) I find that using a water bath to rotate the tank in is best for two reasons: first, it is easier to rotate because the tank becomes lighter in water and, second, because I believe that the solution actually gains a few degrees in temperature, probably because or the reaction involved. For the rotating, I usually make one 360 degree turn every five to ten seconds. One problem, especially with the Patterson tanks, is the that top part is much thicker than the bottom of the tank. You could pad the bottom part of the cylinder with something think and pliable if you wish (sealed with duct tape?) or not worry, as the amount of developer will really cover all film as the film is exposed to the solution each rotation. And, bonus, you will use far less developer. The fear of 'using up' the capacity I feel is greatly exaggerated and developers really are formulated to allow more dilution than allowed for in standard literature. My experiences affirm all this. NOTE: I do the same for the stop and fix. - David Lyga
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