Which one would you prefer for daylight developing, and how many monobath type developers are currently available?
Agfa Rondinax vs Kodak Day Load
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If you don't want the flexibility and are happy with "so-so" results you better send of your b/w film for a drugstore for development 
Back in the day there where many monobaths (Ilford for sure had one, also Agfa I think), but there is a reason that they all disappeared and that D76/ID-11 and Rodinal are still around.
I am also still fairly new to film developing - developed my first film now 3 years ago - and all the different things you read on the internet worried me a bit. Just choose a "normal" developer (not a special super fine grain like Perceptol, or experimental like Caffenol), get stop and fix and just develop.
Is there any film you use in particular? Rodinal is a good start, but not what I would recommend if you shoot HP5+ in 35mm for example. I don't know how other liquid developers like FX39-II and Ilfosol 3 are available in the USA.
Back in the day there where many monobaths (Ilford for sure had one, also Agfa I think), but there is a reason that they all disappeared and that D76/ID-11 and Rodinal are still around.
I am also still fairly new to film developing - developed my first film now 3 years ago - and all the different things you read on the internet worried me a bit. Just choose a "normal" developer (not a special super fine grain like Perceptol, or experimental like Caffenol), get stop and fix and just develop.
Is there any film you use in particular? Rodinal is a good start, but not what I would recommend if you shoot HP5+ in 35mm for example. I don't know how other liquid developers like FX39-II and Ilfosol 3 are available in the USA.
I live in a campervan, so conventional darkroom development is a no go.
I don't like Rodinal. I do like D76. I shoot Delta 100.
If I can't use a daylight tank with a 2-step developer, I will have to keep paying someone else to do it.
I don't like Rodinal. I do like D76. I shoot Delta 100.
If I can't use a daylight tank with a 2-step developer, I will have to keep paying someone else to do it.
Check out Huss’ thread on Cinestill monobath developer. He’s posted a ton of examples and gets good results. It’s not as temperature sensitive as a lot of traditional developers. Hope this helps.
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I have five kinds of daylight loading tank - Jobo 2400, Rondinax 35u and 60, Rondix and the Lab-Box with 120 and 35mm attachments. The Jobo tends to mangle film and isn't reliable in loading. Some of the plastic parts inside it (particularly the little spikes that engage the sprocket holes to draw out the film) look fragile, but are intact. I don't use it. The Lab-Box works OK for 35mm, but I get a light leak from the rotating shutter that supposedly protects the unspooled film in its holding chamber before it is drawn onto the reel. The Rondinax tanks are perfect - easy to load and reliable. I like them especially as I have made a motorized base that holds either one and looks after the rotation for me. The Rondix is the most imaginative tank of all, as it has no reel for the film, is tiny and uses very little chemistry. I cannot motorize it though, as the crank has to be turned one way until it stops, then turned the other, but a smart person who can program an Arduino probably could.
I have never bought a monobath, but I did make experiments with Donald Qualls' version with HC-110, ammonia and Ilford Rapid Fixer. It's fascinating and smelly. Using conventional tanks I couldn't avoid uneven development as the solution flowed through the sprocket holes and left marks on the negatives, both when pouring it into a tank, or when plunging the loaded reel into a pre-filled tank. The Rondinax helped me out there, as the film reel has its axis horizontal, and the marks ended up on the film margin and parallel to it, rather than running across the image. I imagine commercial monobaths are a bit less active and less prone to that, but I have no experience with them.
With my preference for daylight loading, motorized agitation and trying out a monobath, you will detect that I am either lazy or inclined to keep things simple. Take your pick. These days I use Diafine, Rodinal or HC-110 in the Rondinax 90% of the time. I have used the same set-up for C-41 and E6 processing and while I don't enjoy that much, it worked fine. It's very simple to pour in a solution, tell Siri to wake me in five minutes, then lift the tank off the motor base and pour out the solution, set it back on the base and pour in the next, set the timer again and so on. After a few washes I take out the whole reel and drop it into a Honeywell Kleen-Dri. I can go from camera to scanner in just over an hour, and it would be less than an hour if I used a monobath. I'll be interested to hear about how you get on with whatever tank and developer you choose.
I have never bought a monobath, but I did make experiments with Donald Qualls' version with HC-110, ammonia and Ilford Rapid Fixer. It's fascinating and smelly. Using conventional tanks I couldn't avoid uneven development as the solution flowed through the sprocket holes and left marks on the negatives, both when pouring it into a tank, or when plunging the loaded reel into a pre-filled tank. The Rondinax helped me out there, as the film reel has its axis horizontal, and the marks ended up on the film margin and parallel to it, rather than running across the image. I imagine commercial monobaths are a bit less active and less prone to that, but I have no experience with them.
With my preference for daylight loading, motorized agitation and trying out a monobath, you will detect that I am either lazy or inclined to keep things simple. Take your pick. These days I use Diafine, Rodinal or HC-110 in the Rondinax 90% of the time. I have used the same set-up for C-41 and E6 processing and while I don't enjoy that much, it worked fine. It's very simple to pour in a solution, tell Siri to wake me in five minutes, then lift the tank off the motor base and pour out the solution, set it back on the base and pour in the next, set the timer again and so on. After a few washes I take out the whole reel and drop it into a Honeywell Kleen-Dri. I can go from camera to scanner in just over an hour, and it would be less than an hour if I used a monobath. I'll be interested to hear about how you get on with whatever tank and developer you choose.
Not exactly what you asked for but I have used/use DF96 (Cinestill) in a Lab Box (continuos rotation) with good results.
The Lab Box is not for everyone, but can be pretty foolproof once you figure it out (Buy the Crank Handle).
DF96 is very consistent IMO, you use temp/agitation instead of time to control things.
https://cinestillfilm.com/products/...h-single-step-solution-for-processing-at-home
You are our ultimate expert. Thank you for that review.
Mine has cut everything including PET films. Ive taken it apart and made sure its clean and not damaged.
I had no need to sharpen it yet.
Another issue with the knife is the return spring that withdraws it is weak so one needs to make sure to push the lever all the way down in order not to scratch film when passing it thru.
PET films in 120 is a big no however, as they tend to roll up outside the film chamber when removing the backing paper.
Well, it looks like I may soon win a bid on a Rondinax. My next issue is drying the film.
I may be able to build my own dessicator using a Tupperware type of container, which I can use with silica, and possibly a manual air pump as well.
On the chart above, does x2 mean increasing the developing time?
I may be able to build my own dessicator using a Tupperware type of container, which I can use with silica, and possibly a manual air pump as well.
On the chart above, does x2 mean increasing the developing time?
Oh, and Film Photography Project has their own developer and rinse which I would like to try.
https://filmphotographystore.com/products/darkroom-supplies-fpp-super-monobath-bw-developer-1-liter
https://filmphotographystore.com/products/darkroom-supplies-fpp-super-monobath-bw-developer-1-liter
This could be a big deal if it holds up true:
"How long will my FPP Super Monobath last on my shelf?! If you don't develop frequently, make sure after use that your Monobath bottle has all the air squeezed out of it before sealing - should last 3 - 6 months. That time variance is determined by the number of rolls. Monobath will get dirty and sludge colored after a few uses- that color will not impact the monobath."
Edit:
Att. @Huss @Donald Qualls
Last edited:
35 or 60?
Andrew O'Neill
Moderator
Neither of them. Changing bag and a Patterson tank.
Agreed.
35. I won it for around $50 shipped.
Is it the eBay listing from the seller based in Wisconsin?
I can't see where he is located at this point, but his username is enerdome.
That's the one.
Make sure the film guide comes with the tank, I can't see it in the pictures.
That's the one.
Make sure the film guide comes with the tank, I can't see it in the pictures.
He said that it does. The pictures of it in the box shows its frame indicator.
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