BTW, good move on the 80-200mm zoom decision: it is a fine lens but with the dedicated hood it on is 22cm long, and it takes 62mm filters which do not fit in with your other lens choices. When people are trying to decide on whether to buy an F3 or other Nikons I always remind them that the metering pattern is 80% center-weighted compared with more moderate center-weighting on other manual focus Nikons. It does affect the way you use the camera. I liked my F3HP in most respects, but never liked the little LCD meter readout, so I sold it. I agree with the comment on the value of 100% viewer coverage, and I use an F2A for situations where that is important: what a great camera.
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One thing I haven't seen mentioned, and is the main reason why my FE sees a lot less use than the FM and FM2N, is the viewfinder metering indicator. The unilluminated match needle system in the FE is great in good lighting conditions, but against a dark background is completely unusable. The -/o/+ LEDs in the FM are clearly visible in all lights, as of course are the backlit LCDs in more modern bodies.
Ian
Ian
I don't quite get what you guys are talking about with these 200mm lenses (either zoom or prime). What are you planning on shooting with this thing, birds?
maybe flying saucers.
I hate to tell you this, but doing bird photography with a 200 mm. lens is a joke. Really serious birders do their thing with a 400 mm lens and a 1.4 converter. Small to medium sized critters in the zoo are in the 200 mm lens range.
Up to around 200mm is very useful for portraiture (better ears/nose ratio) and general scenic stuff, and I also use that field of view a good deal for landscape.
But lately I am packing the mamiya 645 pro system with me on travel, and I have a superb 200/2.8 apo lens for that and an adapter which allows me to use it on my 35mm Nikons. The price of the Nikon 200 prime is nutty, almost everybody who needs 200mm goes for one of the 80-200 or 70-200 lenses.
I agree with Frank, 200mm for birding... nah... well okay maybe pigeons
For general magazine-style, tight-crop birding, a 300 or 400 is advisable, and many will use TCs with those (just poke around in Audubon magazine, for example, in their last competition issue). What little birding I have done has been with a 300/4 and a 400/3.5.... and most of the time those were short.
But lately I am packing the mamiya 645 pro system with me on travel, and I have a superb 200/2.8 apo lens for that and an adapter which allows me to use it on my 35mm Nikons. The price of the Nikon 200 prime is nutty, almost everybody who needs 200mm goes for one of the 80-200 or 70-200 lenses.
I agree with Frank, 200mm for birding... nah... well okay maybe pigeons
For general magazine-style, tight-crop birding, a 300 or 400 is advisable, and many will use TCs with those (just poke around in Audubon magazine, for example, in their last competition issue). What little birding I have done has been with a 300/4 and a 400/3.5.... and most of the time those were short.- Joined
- Feb 5, 2006
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I guess I would just get the gear you picked out. The FE2 is a great camera. All the manual focus cameras are old now and getting older. Maybe you will have to have it serviced and maybe not. The lenses you selected are fine. You have a $500.00 budget and so you cannot buy everything right now. The SB15 flash works well with the FE2 ($25.00). Also the sb600 which is a new model will work well. I used that one on my FE2 many times. One of the neat things about the FE2 is the fast sync speed which is great for using fill flash. You can use focus screens and diopter eye pieces from the FM3A which are still readily available.
Keep it real simple, always.
Stay away from off-brand lenses. Manual Nikkors are dirt cheap now anyway and you simply aren't going to get better quality than they.
Consider, strongly, a manual camera like FM, FM2 or FM2n.
Stay away from off-brand lenses. Manual Nikkors are dirt cheap now anyway and you simply aren't going to get better quality than they.
Consider, strongly, a manual camera like FM, FM2 or FM2n.
Overall, I like your planned kit. The FE2 is a fine choice. I would delete the 80-200 zoom. There simply is no need for the compromises of a zoom. I recently bought an AI 200/4 from KEH for only $59 (EX condition). I have been using the AI 300/4.5, and I have yet to see any faults in it. I like DOF, and so I have been using it stopped down (F/8 and beyond). It has produced excellent results.
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Your planned kit sounds fine. I've shot a similar kit for many years, except with different bodies. I'd probably go with an 85/1.8 AI'd Nikkor, either the rubber focus version or one of the metal focus ring Nikkor-H or HC versions. Through KEH, they are a bit more expensive than the 85/2, but they are nicer lenses. I still own my 85/1.8 that I bought in spring 2007. Mistakenly sold the first one in 2006, due to financial troubles.
The 200/4, pretty much any version is good, yes, even the original Q version. KEH currently has a BGN grade 200/4 QC with factory AI ring for $35.00.
I'd also subsitute a Nikkor-H 50/2 with AI ring for the 50/1.8. Single coated version is slightly contrastier than the Nikkor-HC and later variants, but not as big a difference as the 50/1.4 S versus the 50/1.4 SC, which was fairly low-contrast, compared to the single-coated S version and the AI version which both seem to be about the same.
To bridge the gap between 24 and 50, a 35/2 Nikkor-O with AI ring would be a good choice. Just make sure you have the HN-3 lens hood. It does like to flare a bit. Between the 85 and the 200, a 135/3.5 Nikkor with an AI ring (or even a milled ring) would be good. Found it to be pretty darn close quality-wise to the 105/2.5, but at 1/2-1/3 the cost. Again, either single coated or multicoated is fine.
Forgot to mention, my current setup, lens-wise is:
20/3.5 Nikkor-UD with AI ring (nice lens, 72mm filter size, tho)
24/2.8 Nikkor-NC, again with AI ring
50/1.4 Nikkor AI
50/2 Nikkor-H with AI ring (plus one that's unmodified)
55/2.8 Micro-Nikkor AIS
85/1.8 Nikkor with AI ring
60-300 Tamron SP (yes, zoom, and not a Nikkor - surprisingly decent)
200/4 Nikkor AI.
Still need to add a 35/2 or a 35/2.8 to flesh out the range.
-J
The 200/4, pretty much any version is good, yes, even the original Q version. KEH currently has a BGN grade 200/4 QC with factory AI ring for $35.00.
I'd also subsitute a Nikkor-H 50/2 with AI ring for the 50/1.8. Single coated version is slightly contrastier than the Nikkor-HC and later variants, but not as big a difference as the 50/1.4 S versus the 50/1.4 SC, which was fairly low-contrast, compared to the single-coated S version and the AI version which both seem to be about the same.
To bridge the gap between 24 and 50, a 35/2 Nikkor-O with AI ring would be a good choice. Just make sure you have the HN-3 lens hood. It does like to flare a bit. Between the 85 and the 200, a 135/3.5 Nikkor with an AI ring (or even a milled ring) would be good. Found it to be pretty darn close quality-wise to the 105/2.5, but at 1/2-1/3 the cost. Again, either single coated or multicoated is fine.
Forgot to mention, my current setup, lens-wise is:
20/3.5 Nikkor-UD with AI ring (nice lens, 72mm filter size, tho)
24/2.8 Nikkor-NC, again with AI ring
50/1.4 Nikkor AI
50/2 Nikkor-H with AI ring (plus one that's unmodified)
55/2.8 Micro-Nikkor AIS
85/1.8 Nikkor with AI ring
60-300 Tamron SP (yes, zoom, and not a Nikkor - surprisingly decent)
200/4 Nikkor AI.
Still need to add a 35/2 or a 35/2.8 to flesh out the range.
-J
Good advice, John. I agree with your point regarding the 35. I have the 35/2.8, and it is perhaps the best 35 I have used--excellent color and sharpness. I also use the HN-3.
I have a Nikon kit very similar to that discussed in this thread (FE, 24mm f/2, 50mm f/1.4, and 85mm f/2). I'm very happy with this camera and these lenses, although the earlier poster was correct that the match needle meter of the FE is unusable in very low light. (I just put the camera in Auto and use the AE lock in those situations.)
I'm looking for a bag to carry this camera with these three lenses, a few rolls of film, and a few filters. Any suggestions?
I'm looking for a bag to carry this camera with these three lenses, a few rolls of film, and a few filters. Any suggestions?
Depends on how you intend to use it... ;-)
Not walking long distances and working intensively out of the bag: A "classic" camera (side) bag.
Walking long distances and putting the bag down to work: A camera rucksack.
Walking long distances with light kit, keeping fairly mobile but still working without putting things down: A hip (waist) belt bag.
A compromise between a rucksack and working out of a bag (not having to put it down): A "Trim Trekker" or a "Slingshot" type bag.
Staying anonymous in nasty areas: A diaper changing bag...
As said earlier, The FM is a very reliable camera. I do not have the FE but have also heard problems on the light seals.
Just my 2 cents...
Just my 2 cents...
Yesterday I rcvd a payment for a small wedding I did so now the GAS savings account is slightly topped up. Time to do some shopping and inform you all about my decision on this. (I know you have all been waiting impatiently for this.)
I spent 3 hours trolling Ffordes, KEH and Adorama. I read this thread again and again, reviews and opinions by everybody and their demented brother.
Finally I broke down and ordered krom KEH.
Nikon FA condition EX+
105 F2.5 AI condition EX+
50 F1.4 S AI condtion EX+
Total including shipping $700.
Money was not enough now for a wide lens. I'm thinking of the 20 f3.5 but they are not cheap. So later.
Most likely someone from this very knowledgeable group will now tell me why this combination is a total disaster
I am now like a child before christmas. Eagerly awaiting my package.
r
Mats
I spent 3 hours trolling Ffordes, KEH and Adorama. I read this thread again and again, reviews and opinions by everybody and their demented brother.
Finally I broke down and ordered krom KEH.
Nikon FA condition EX+
105 F2.5 AI condition EX+
50 F1.4 S AI condtion EX+
Total including shipping $700.
Money was not enough now for a wide lens. I'm thinking of the 20 f3.5 but they are not cheap. So later.
Most likely someone from this very knowledgeable group will now tell me why this combination is a total disaster
I am now like a child before christmas. Eagerly awaiting my package.
r
Mats
If you are only going to have one wide angle lens the 28mm I.M.O would be a more useful choice for general photography than the 24mm because it's a hell of a jump in terms of angle of view from the 50mm lens.
P.S I believe you need not the AI but the the AIS lenses for the Nikon FA for it to work in the programme mode.
P.S I believe you need not the AI but the the AIS lenses for the Nikon FA for it to work in the programme mode.
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As I understand it an AI lens works very good with the FA but som of the more esoteric functions does not. If so I can live whithout P-mode if I have to.
r
mats
You are quite right they will work O.K , I didn't know if you were aware about the programme mode and were expecting them to work fully.
Some people might tell you that the electronics in the FA are a bit fragile. All that I can say is that mine is still going strong after 24 years. I really like the camera & it started a long relationship with Nikon for me. With regard to program mode on the FA, the AIS allows it to switch to a higher shutter speed biased program with a lens longer that 135mm if I recall right. I hardly ever use program mode & haven't tried it with an AI lens, but imagine that it will work & just be stuck in one of the program modes. Pass on which one though?
The other thing that AIS lenses have compared to AI is a linear aperture. Think that the blades move more exactly in relation to the movement of the lever compared to AI. Something along those lines anyway? Think that I read somewhere that an AI lens causes a very tiny delay in the shutter being released as the camera takes another reading.......
I have a 105mm F2.5 & the lens is superb. I would be surprised if it disappoints you. Maybe think about adding an MD-15 to your FA at some point. IMO adding one to mine made it handle better.
The other thing that AIS lenses have compared to AI is a linear aperture. Think that the blades move more exactly in relation to the movement of the lever compared to AI. Something along those lines anyway? Think that I read somewhere that an AI lens causes a very tiny delay in the shutter being released as the camera takes another reading.......
I have a 105mm F2.5 & the lens is superb. I would be surprised if it disappoints you. Maybe think about adding an MD-15 to your FA at some point. IMO adding one to mine made it handle better.
I have a FM2n, FE and FE2. They are all GREAT cameras. If you anticipate low-light conditions, I find the LED exposure indicators a definite advantage over the needle of the FE and FE2. In normal, or bright light, I do prefer the more informative needle indicator. Personal choice, but either works well.
All three of these options could probably stand a good CLA with light seal replacement. I found that my FE's seals were so compressed that they could not be expected to last too much longer, and my FM2n's had become very gummy and were dropping pieces. I sent both in to KEH for service and they came back in excellent shape, with VERY QUICK turn-around time. One week exactly, including shipping both directions. If I remember right, cost was approximately $125 for each, and included several repairs and replacement of worn parts in the FE. Not the cheapest, but good work and great customer service. I would probably suggest you ask them to perform a CLA prior to shipping a purchase from them, will save you some shipping costs I assume, and you will be assured of a well-functioning camera. That's what I would do.
Good luck, what ever you decide. That family of Nikons are highly recommended. (Not at all influenced by the fact that my first serious camera was an FM2n back in the mid 80's)
All three of these options could probably stand a good CLA with light seal replacement. I found that my FE's seals were so compressed that they could not be expected to last too much longer, and my FM2n's had become very gummy and were dropping pieces. I sent both in to KEH for service and they came back in excellent shape, with VERY QUICK turn-around time. One week exactly, including shipping both directions. If I remember right, cost was approximately $125 for each, and included several repairs and replacement of worn parts in the FE. Not the cheapest, but good work and great customer service. I would probably suggest you ask them to perform a CLA prior to shipping a purchase from them, will save you some shipping costs I assume, and you will be assured of a well-functioning camera. That's what I would do.
Good luck, what ever you decide. That family of Nikons are highly recommended. (Not at all influenced by the fact that my first serious camera was an FM2n back in the mid 80's)
I read this whole discussion, and nobody mentioned the F4? If the F5 and F100 were in the mix, why not the F4? Seems to me to be the best of the old (good old knobs and dials) but with good automation too. Bright finder, lots of lens compatibility, built like a tank, cheap.
I was really, really tempted to make it an F4. But I tried to get at least two lenses to fit in to the budget and that meant the F4 had to go for a cheaper body. But I see a strong possibility of an F4 in the future.
The money, always the money.
r
Mats
I love my F4s but it is a beast. Don't get me wrong, I don't mind a huge camera, but for something meant for family snapshots and such it may not be the best fit for shimodas needs. When I take an F4 out, I intend to spend most of my time taking pictures. Smaller SLRs are easier to treat as more casual use cameras.
If Shimoda was motivated only by the need for family snaps I hardly think he'd be on apug asking about manual nikons! He'd be on dpreview or somewhere checking out the latest digibits.
I think if you want to enjoy the craft of making photos by hand, eye, and mind, but you also want to make some snaps of the family too, and you love film, the F4 is a pretty good sweet spot. Yeah it's a tank, but it's still In my opinion the last of the great *traditional* (meaning no computer menus) F cameras. Personally, I love the knobs. Plus, you can downsize it with the mb20 battery pack.
Anyway, Shimoda, congrats on your selection. I know you'll enjoy your kit. Post some of your results in the gallery!
I think if you want to enjoy the craft of making photos by hand, eye, and mind, but you also want to make some snaps of the family too, and you love film, the F4 is a pretty good sweet spot. Yeah it's a tank, but it's still In my opinion the last of the great *traditional* (meaning no computer menus) F cameras. Personally, I love the knobs. Plus, you can downsize it with the mb20 battery pack.
Anyway, Shimoda, congrats on your selection. I know you'll enjoy your kit. Post some of your results in the gallery!
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