So i have been shooting film again and sending it off for processing. Last sunday i bought a really nice Durst f60 for cheap because i want to start making my own prints. I haven't been in the dark room since 1997 and i am a little rusty. My question is should i start with the cheaper RC paper or should i jump straight to Fiber. That is where i will eventually be anyway. Your opinions would be much appreciated.
Not recommended, after too long in the water print will never be flat for the same reason FB is never really flat. With water trapped between sandwich of two plastic layers drying will be uneven. Plus there is a question of longevity of such a print, prolonged wash may cause much quicker separation of plastic from fiber base due to weakening of adhesives. Time of washing the RC papers should be similar to washing film, 15-20 min.Maris, you could probably wash RC for 6 hours in the same way you wash FB without any adverse effects, should you so wish.
RC paper can have problems with extended wet times. Back in the 1980s I encountered brightener wash-out and edge penetration leading to slight delamination. The bad edges could be trimmed off but the brightener was gone for ever. Maybe the latest RC papers are better but I haven't used any this century.
.....Time of washing the RC papers should be similar to washing film, 15-20 min.
Leave it for 6 hours.I've left Ilford MG-IV in the clean water tub for an hour with no ill effects. I do not see this as an inconvenience. RC is still far easier and cheaper to work with. Results are just as good too.
Will a more aggressive wash enable shorter times in the water ?
Use hypo wash rather. The first 2-3 min. clear about 90% of unwanted stuff in emulsion, problem is the remaining 10% and stuff embedded in the fiber. (with FB papers). Hypo and low solution of sodium sulfit will help to cut the washing time. Also higher temperature maybe like 22-24C. Below 18C wash is very ineffective.Will a more aggressive wash enable shorter times in the water ?
Do you need good and "not that expensive" RC paper, check this:Great advice thank you. I will start with RC for many of the reasons stated in the above replies plus i have so many contact prints for my 35 mm negatives. So the learning and cost will be easier on RC. However I will switch to Fiber very soon after.
Use hypo wash rather. The first 2-3 min. clear about 90% of unwanted stuff in emulsion, problem is the remaining 10% and stuff embedded in the fiber. (with FB papers). Hypo and low solution of sodium sulfit will help to cut the washing time. Also higher temperature maybe like 22-24C. Below 18C wash is very ineffective.
Thank you Matt for this. Somehow I never used word "hypo" in reference to fixer but as short form of "hypo clearing agent" which I never used anyway.For clarity:
"hypo" is an old name for fixer, so "hypo" means "fixer"
"Hypo Clearing Agent" is something very different. .
YesHypo clearing agent is sodium sulfite solution (plus some supporting ingredients to deal with hard water). So you are actually using HCA, just not a commercial version.
RC papers have improved so much that I would not hesitate to use them. However, some galleries or collectors refuse to accept such prints.
I think it's the Library of Congress (or some other important repository) that only started accepting any 35mm-digital files for submission a few short years ago (not sure, but I think the Leica M9 was one of the first), before that it was only MF digital or film.
Let people accept what they want, most of the time it's easier to find new customers than to win over hard-headed ones...
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