Scan the negative. Use the clone stamp or healing wand to spot the scan. Then print the scan on a transparent material to make a digital negative. Then contact print that.
Hey, I didn't say you'd WANT to! (I certainly don't. I like Thomas's acronym LIMIWAC - Look I Made It Without A Computer!)
But Roger, you'd still have possible dust spots between the digitally-produced negative and the paper. So you'd still have to spot the print...
No, the only way to digitally spot a print is make a computer-controlled spotter. After you'd identified the spots, it would then take care of the mechanical part of doing the spotting work.
When you don't fill the tank as much as you should...
You still have printable shots. I did this tonight. Haven't done it since I used Paterson tanks 30 years ago.
I didn't have that much film to develop so instead of doing just one roll, I decided to do one 35mm and one 120.
I have no idea why I was thinking 12 ounces would cover both and 16 was plenty. Why don't I know by now how much it takes to cover 1 each of 35mm + 120 in a tall Nikor tank?
At least the 35mm roll was on the bottom. It got fully developed.
A partially submerged roll of 35mm is pretty much hosed.
But the MF has plenty of compositional opportunities, even though only 2/3 of the film was submerged. Many of the shots on tonight's roll will work out OK. Only a couple are ruined.