Adox supersafe safelight opinion and availability

[benjiiiiii]

I’ve setup a darkroom in my bassement. For six month I’ve worked by night with the door not completely closed due to my need of electricity. Which would also means that I could work with some very dim light.

An electrician came, I have a plug inside now.
So I want to purchase a safelight. I’ve seen the description of the supersafe safelight on fotoimpex. It seems like it’s perfect.


But I’ve never read anything about it except for the fotoimpex website. Does anyone tryed it here ??


Also I live in Canada where we use 110v, the safelight mention a 110 version with an item number but I can’t find it. And fotoimpex didn’t answer my request on there info email. Does it really exist this 110 version ??

 

[pentaxuser]

Intriguing description as it uses the word supersafe. Did it explain what made it supersafe? By all means pursue this product is that is what you want but any or all safelight in correct condition( right wattage bulb and correctly positioned) will work fine

pentaxuser

 

[AgX]

In Canada the mains voltage meanwhile should be at 120V, not 110V.

Also that lamp has an E14 thread, which may not be used in Canada but instead E12.

 

[AgX]

Intriguing description as it uses the word supersafe. Did it explain what made it supersafe?

Yes:
"Normal darkroom bulbs mask photo paper at a distance of 1.5 meters and directly illuminate it after about 3 minutes.
With the new ADOX Supersafe, we couldn't measure a veil after 20 minutes under direct lighting (significantly brighter than light bulbs or conventional lamps) (Ilford and ADOX MCC)."

 

[Tom Kershaw]

I have experimented with LED safelights and found they still needed a filter as the spectral output was not entirely safe, certainly not monochromatic. Presumably Adox have found LEDs that are safe.

 

[benjiiiiii]

In Canada the mains voltage meanwhile should be at 120V, not 110V.

Also that lamp has an E14 thread, which may not be used in Canada but instead E12.

Thanks I didn't pay close attention enought to that.

@ADOX Fotoimpex do you intend to produce a version of this safelight for noth america ?

 

[Wallendo]

Most North American systems work in a range of 110 to 120. There is not really a difference between appliances listed as 110 and 120. People traveling between the US and Canada do not need power converters.

Traditionally these appliances were listed as 120 (the maximum voltage), but now are generally listed at 110 (the minimum voltage).

 

[AgX]

Most North American systems work in a range of 110 to 120. There is not really a difference between appliances listed as 110 and 120.

Not true, the rise has impact on incandescant lamps. More so on those already overrated.

120V and 240V are the aim voltages, systems are to get as close as possible to these, though there are permitted deviations.

 

[4season]

If it only emits specific wavelengths of light which most paper isn't sensitive to, it could actually be quite bright yet still work well without the need for additional filters. The specific LEDs they used may not be ordinary off-the-shelf types.

 

[Nicholas Lindan]

Just look on ebay for safelights. The big Kodak ones produce lots of safe light - but you need an OC filter; an OA filter will fog polycontrast paper. If you need one for working with Ortho materials there are the nuArc bubble-lights.

I just looked ebay prices - yikes, things you could get for $5 are now $50.

 

[Donald Qualls]

If it only emits specific wavelengths of light which most paper isn't sensitive to, it could actually be quite bright yet still work well without the need for additional filters.

This was the trick behind the low pressure sodium safelights -- they could be bright and have safe times of half an hour or more, because they emitted only on a couple narrow wavelengths outside the sensitivity of nearly all B&W papers (and very close to the minimum sensitivity of RA-4 paper, as well, so with some dimming and filtration they could be used in a color darkroom). Same caveat applies to amber LED, though -- don't make any assumptions about ortho materials (the green sensitivity may run far enough into yellow to fog under these lights), including Harman Direct Positive.

 

[MattKing]

I'm using a red LED rope light that is more commonly found in the stores around Christmas time. There was no guaranty when I bought it a few years ago that the light emitted would be safe, but tests using the full Kodak Safelight test have proved it to be excellent for the purpose. And the return policies of the US Home Depot store where I bought it (IIRC) made the experiment low risk.
Normally, red safelights don't give as much visibility as the amber ones, but my rope light gives me great, even light everywhere I want it.
All of which is to say that if you are willing to spend some extremely boring time testing, you may very well find what you need outside of the photographic retailers.
Here is the link to the Kodak Safelight test: https://www.kodak.com/content/products-brochures/Film/KODAK-A-Guide-to-Darkroom-Illumination-K-4.pdf
You should note that it is important to perform the complete test - including both the pre and post fogging exposures. Otherwise you won't be able to tell if the safelight is affecting the contrast behavior of the paper.
And it is important to re-test if you start working with different types of paper.
And yes, the test itself is really boring.

 

[juan]

Mirko said in another thread that they would be building a 120v version. No production date given. I think it was the polywarmtone emulsion availability thread.

 

[AgX]

Their webshop says there is such version, but there is neither a link, nor does a search for the given product number yield a result, nor did they reply to the OP's inquiry.

 

[koraks]

The specific LEDs they used may not be ordinary off-the-shelf types

Of course they use COTS leds. The question is, which ones. They might be 660nm leds which for some reason seem to fare better when it comes to secondary emission peaks.

 

[AgX]

COTS parts = generic parts

 

[koraks]

COTS = commercial off-the shelf. By definition. And that's what Adox (or their toll manufacturer) would use for this, as their volumes are way too low to justify a custom made semiconductor.

 

[bdial]

I use a mix of old-school tungsten safe lights and a string of RGB leds using just the red channel. Since the OP is in Canada, Lee Valley hardware is a good source, my led string came from another source, but I use the mounting channels and diffusers from Lee Valley.

 

[Tom Kershaw]

If it’s a standard off-the-shelf 660nm I’d be surprised if it didn’t have any emission spikes outside the stated spectrum (green for example), but in any case, do a proper safelight test.

I have put my experimental LED safelight set-up inside my old ILFORD ceiling mounted unit, with the '902' filters still in place - very dim but also safe. If I were building or refurbishing a darkroom I'd still be tempted to go with new conventional safelights as my experiments have made me realise LEDs are not as trouble free as sometimes thought.

 

[koraks]

If it’s a standard off-the-shelf 660nm I’d be surprised if it didn’t have any emission spikes outside the stated spectrum (green for example)

Possibly; in my experience the 660nm leds are less prone to this than the more common 620nm.

 

[Patrick Robert James]

Get yourself some of these.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...equivalent-led-globe-bulb-27-lumens/440/1477/

Many people are using them. I use the red ones but some have said the amber ones are fine too. I cover the bulbs with rubylith just to be super safe but it probably isn't necessary. They are pretty cheap too. You can buy a fixture for them at your local hardware store. I have them on a pull string so I can turn them off when I want.

 

[koraks]

I cover the bulbs with rubylith

That's pretty effective. And usually it actually *is* necessary with red leds if you want them to be sufficiently safe.

 

[gone]

Years ago I purchased an 8 watt bulb from Freestyle for $8, w/ the idea of upgrading later on. A dollar a watt for that bulb, not bad. Well, hundreds of prints later I am still using the same 8 watt bulb w/ a sheet of rubylith taped over it. The bulb is in a free standing floor lamp w/ a frosted plastic cover around it, and that's what I tape the rubylith to. I like this setup because I can easily move it closer to the work area or further away for the Foma papers, which don't like too much lighting.

 

[mshchem]

Low pressure sodium 1st choice, used. Leds are super inexpensive and easy to test. I've accumulated several Thomas Duplex super safelights. I would start at Home Depot

 

[Donald Qualls]

The main objections I have to low pressure sodium are that replacement tubes/bulbs are very hard to find now (LPS has been replaced for virtually all of its original uses by HPS, and that by LED); plus, the Thomas type especially cause trouble in a low ceilinged space like my darkroom (I can reach up and touch the ceiling without lifting my heels from the floor). I've got two of the SuperBright amber bulbs (intended for testing with RA-4, but also for B&W -- may require significant attenuation for both, those things are bright), and wouldn't hesitate to buy a couple fo their red ones if I find the amber won't work with the papers I have.