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Adox PAn 25, what is this film?

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Anyone try the Adox labelled version of the Pan 25 yet? Be interesting to see results. Also does this film need to be presoaked/ prewashed like Efke before development? I have read a 30 second presoak is recommended, but do people do it? The soak seems to get rid of the dye layer in the film from what I gather.
 
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Anyone try the Adox labelled version of the Pan 25 yet? Be interesting to see results.

I shot a roll of Adox CHS 25 in MF recently. I don't have any scans to post, though, and in the past I've shot Efke KB25 in 35mm, but not in MF, so comparisons by me would be fairly meaningless. (I bought a few rolls of the Adox mainly to get the plastic canisters in which they come.)

Also does this film need to be presoaked/ prewashed like Efke before development? I have read a 30 second presoak is recommended, but do people do it? The soak seems to get rid of the dye layer in the film from what I gather.

I've never presoaked Efke films. Different manufacturers recommend different things with respect to presoaking, but my impression from reading peoples' posts is that most people ignore the recommendations and just do whatever they want to do with respect to presoaking. I did notice that the developer came out of the tank a rather bright magenta color when I did my roll of Adox CHS 25.
 
The Adox Pan 25 suffers intensely from pinholes. I am very careful with all my processing, and it has never been a problem before, even when using Adox CHS 25. Something about the Pan 25 I just can't shake. I have tried both using and not using a stop bath, and am now going to try using PMK to harden the emulsion, hopefully that will help. Presoak isn't really necessary, there is barely any dye that comes out, its a very light green on the first fill and dump, and a bluish on the second. However I do presoak all the same, mostly because of my pinhole problem. I do process the film in a tank, but ever so gently, like any other film, perhaps I need to move this one to the trays. There is also a very bad curl from the film, it is a very thin sheet.
 
I've eliminated pinholes by adding a couple of drops of Edwal LFN to the developer. I don't presoak. The Ortho 25 and Pan 25 films have become regulars in my shooting.
 
I've eliminated pinholes by adding a couple of drops of Edwal LFN to the developer. I don't presoak. The Ortho 25 and Pan 25 films have become regulars in my shooting.


Is that a religious explanation for why you don't have pinholes, or does the alcohol actually do something. Pinholes wouldn't be fixed by alcohol, its irrelevant to the problem. The problem is the very fragile emulsion, which is either defected upon arrival, or agitated and flaked off from neutralization of the alkalinity of developer by the acidic stop bath. Alcohol shouldnt do anything, the solution would be to be more careful with the film by either using stand development and agitating lightly, or placing the films in trays for development. Also using a gelatin hardener in the stop bath or fixer, or simply using a tanning developer such as Pyro, or Hydroquinone in some cases.. What developer do you use when you develop your Ortho 25 and Pan 25?
 
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