Adox CMS 20 II & Pre-Exposure

Andrew O'Neill

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I thought I'd apply a little "speed boost" technology to this film, like Adox's HR-50. It's nothing more than pre-exposure...It's easy to do so, why not?

 

Henning Serger

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Fearless wild animal photographer Andrew at work........

Yupp, the good old trustworthy pre-exposure technique: It just works.

For those who are interested in more options to easily increase shadow detail: Give your scene just the little bit extra light in the shadows:
Use a fill-in flash:
- The most easy and perfect way is using a modern 35mm or medium format camera with the dedicated flash system.
- Use the TTL mode, and set it also on balanced light / fill-in flash.
- Then reduce in addition the power manually by 2-3 stops (or more, if needed and possible by the flash).
- If wanted use a diffusor / diffusion dome / built-in wide-flash adapter (Weitwinkelstreuscheibe) for a very even and soft light distribution.
- The results will look so natural that in most cases viewers will not realize that flash was used.

It is faster and easier than pre-exposure, and can be controlled very precisely (with most modern flash-units by 1/3 stop).

Best regards,
Henning
 
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Andrew O'Neill

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I don't own a flash I have bounced light with the white side of a dark cloth, though (when I had one with a white side, that is), which helps whatever is nearest the camera, but overall, I find pre-exposure quite, if not more, effective. For a scene such as in the video, especially. One can be quite precise with it. Oh and when I was photographing old coal mines in Japan, a strong flashlight was very effective...
 

cliveh

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Don't you worry about those bears?
 
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Andrew O'Neill

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...and this is most likely my last video on this film. After all the tests and fun I've had with it, the best developer is by far, Adotech IV. Some come close (like POTA), but just don't do it justice. I'm hoping to get my hands on some 120!
 

Henning Serger

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Andrew O'Neill said:
I don't own a flash
Click to expand...

I use several . Belong to the best investments in equipment for me. Modern flash technology offers so much, especially in difficult lighting situations.
As "photography is drawing with light" it often helps a lot when you can actively "draw with the light" by yourself.
Offers not only much technically better results in difficult conditions, but also lots of additional creative potential.
And this technology has become so extremely cheap: You can already get it for less than 100 bucks (camera + flash).

Andrew O'Neill said:
I have bounced light with the white side of a dark cloth, though (when I had one with a white side, that is), which helps whatever is nearest the camera,
Click to expand...

I've successfully used fill-in flash to improve shadow detail or reduce overall scene contrast for distances up to 20 meters. In the scene of your video it would have worked perfectly as well.

Best regards,
Henning
 

Chuck1

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You can use a 283 or 285 with the varipower thing reduced to 1/16 then selectively fill the shadows manually,
If your doing 20-30 minute exposures it gives you something to do do...
 
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Andrew O'Neill

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I did light paint some buildings during a 5 hour night exposure, with a flash set to strobe...I also climbed up under the tower and blasted it for a bit.

 

Sal Santamaura

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Note that, per an "informed source," ADOX's "speed boost technology" is not pre-exposure:

Developer for Aviphot Pan 200

Hi Goran, very interesting stuff! Does any developing happen in the first bath? What is the duration of each bath? Ha, ha, Raghu, that 1.3g of carbonate in bath A make you curious? To be honest, back in the day, I never tried to develop film test just in bath A to see how much image is formed...
www.photrio.com
 
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Andrew O'Neill

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Well, even if it is not via pre-exposure the result is the same...and I can easily do it in the field! I know their technique is top secret, but I sure would love to know how they did it... Chemically fumed?
 

loccdor

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Awesome photo Andy. I don't use flash either, not even fill-in, it just looks too unnatural to me.
 

John Wiegerink

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Andrew O'Neill said:
Well, even if it is not via pre-exposure the result is the same...and I can easily do it in the field! I know their technique is top secret, but I sure would love to know how they did it... Chemically fumed?
Click to expand...

Hot vapor/fumes from heated hydrogen peroxide? Who knows as long as it works I guess, but I'd do what you did Andy, since that works too.
 
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Andrew O'Neill

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John Wiegerink said:
Hot vapor/fumes from heated hydrogen peroxide? Who knows as long as it works I guess, but I'd do what you did Andy, since that works too.
Click to expand...

And pre-exposing in the field allows me to tailor it to each sheet.
 

pentaxuser

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In your shot ín #9 there appears to be a person kneeling on the top with a head through the guard raíls It looks like a nun, possibly praying for your safety or soul in case the safety prayer fails?

Either that or Fay Wray wondering what had happened to King Kong when he fell

pentaxuser
 

pentaxuser

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Andrew, it must be my eyes and brain. First I see a nun on a tower and now in your pictures of the tree and background building I'd give up the extra shadow detail in the pre-exposed negative for the overall effect on the building in the background which looks better to me with the non pre-exposed negative

I suppose it all depends on what part of negative has the most value to the viewer. Nevertheless it's nice to know it can be done and how to do it

I bet that bear when it gets near the road gets a better improvement out of any passing cyclist's sprinting ability than Dave Brailsford got out of any of the Sky Tour de France team a few years ago

Even I'd zoom better than Chris Froome

Thanks

pentaxuser
 
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Andrew O'Neill

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I will never be able to unsee that now
 
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